GolfGTIforum.co.uk
General => The garage => Topic started by: forzanerazzurri on 14 January 2004, 05:48
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im so sick of my rough idle that im thinking about rebuilding my whole engine as it seems tired. how much does the whole process usually run? and describe an engine rebuild completely, does it really make the engine near new?
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What engine is it ?.
Steve.
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N how long is ur name?! ;D (only kidding!)
Dinky :-*
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ive had loads of trouble with my idle and after a fildle about with some connections which didnt make any diference all of a sudden my idles now perfect.... strange how after nearly a year with it idling stupid it now running fine......... good job really mot due in summer!
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i had crap idle too. cleaned the connections inside the air flow meter (black cap bit)
now the idle stays steady. If you try it remember to re-seal the cap or water will blow it up :P
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i didnt touch the air meter... i looked at the isv connection wire was shafted so ive used 2 spade connectors until i can get around to sliding in a new little spade terminal in the orignal connector block....
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do you think it might be throttle body? or throttle body sensor (if there is one) or eve njust a vacuum leak i missed
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Took me 12 months to correct my bad idle. Replaced every thing but no change. Turned out to be a very small hole in air inlet pipe taht runs from the air filter to the engine. :)
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This idle problem driving me bonkers. Coming to 6 months since I got the car. Replaced ISv, cleaned throttle body, changed temp sensor..... and guess what... revs still bounces each time I start the car when engine is cold. I got to wait approxmately 4 minutes b4 taking off......damn!
Well I suppose I got to keep looking for the source of this problem. Sounds like its gonna take a while to resolve. Wish me luck. :(
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miacant is yours an 8v or 16v?
on my 16v im gonna try swapping over the dash temp gauge sender with that for the ISV temp sender and see if its working - its the last thing i have to check!!
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Gambit, 8v it is.
Getting fed up with it now.
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it has to be an ISV problem as this is what keeps the revs at a constant 1k rpm.
when the car is cold the ISV will open the throttle that little bit extra to keep the revs that bit higher
when driving the car and coming of the throttle, say changing up and down gear do the revs plummet or do they drop slowly
if they plummet the ISV aint working, they should drop slowly
also, check and feel if the ISV is gently vibrating when the engine is running.
or easier would be to disconnect the ISV, start the engine - then feel the ISV
stop the engine, reconnect it, then restart and feel the ISV - you should feel a difference
my dodgy idle was simply a dirty terminal/switch on the ISV temp sender
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my isv is working properly, i unscrewed the idle screw and cleaned it out a bit then screwed it back in and it ran a little better now my idle is fine until the engine warms up then it does it again, maybe i should clean out my throttle body?? in behind the idle screw as i saw lots of oil on the end of the screw when i unscrewed it?
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I had rough Idle and misfiring (when warm) - replaced temp sensor and is smooth as a baby through a blender now. ;)
Engine was getting too rich a fuel-air mixture when warm
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hmm mines not misfiring i dont think? but how much does a temp sensor go for and where does it go? how easy is the install?
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Got mine fixed under warranty. Afraid I don't know much about fitting em, but think they're pretty cheap (~20 squid(?)). As I said, was done under warranty so not sure of price. Sorry!
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temp sender is about 12 quid i think it is the blue one on the union on the front of the block. hold up and i will post a link for you about idling.....
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try this.......
http://www.btinternet.com/~gvk_motorsport/diduphart.html
as well as cleaning the idle screw, check the gasket on the throttle body and all the vacuum hoses, get some carb cleaner and clean the throttle body and inlet manifold aswell, cant hurt! also make sure there are no air leaks from any rubber hoses and that your breather on the rocker cover is fitted correctly
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thanks a bunch for the info, will this still work even tho my 8 v isnt Digifant ( i dont think) hmm blue plug, is there any way you can get a picture of this ?
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hold on i will see if i can find this picture blue posted.........
im not sure if it will work if it isnt digifant, cant hurt to try?
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u after this one ? :)
(http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/8/web/224000-224999/224991_66_full.jpg)
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ignore the red circle. I havn't read the post fully but i think your after the blue sensor near the radiator pipe?
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thats the one cheers mate! :)
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how can u tell if your fuel injection is cis or not? i have an isv etc.
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WOW ,alright i have somethign indredibly interesting,i was playing aorund treying that method and as i was playing around i yanked on a bunching of wires. on my 8v there is a bunch of wires covered in a plastic cord, just to the left of the brake fluid resivoir. whenever i pull or twist that bunch of wires my engine starts to stall but then the isv kicks in and recovers. i have no idea what this means can anyone help?
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does anyone have MSN messener or somethign so i can send a photo of the area or talk further?
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it has to be an ISV problem as this is what keeps the revs at a constant 1k rpm.
when the car is cold the ISV will open the throttle that little bit extra to keep the revs that bit higher
when driving the car and coming of the throttle, say changing up and down gear do the revs plummet or do they drop slowly
if they plummet the ISV aint working, they should drop slowly
also, check and feel if the ISV is gently vibrating when the engine is running.
or easier would be to disconnect the ISV, start the engine - then feel the ISV
stop the engine, reconnect it, then restart and feel the ISV - you should feel a difference
my dodgy idle was simply a dirty terminal/switch on the ISV temp sender
When I start the car from cold revs starts at 1k rpm then within few secs slowly moves upwards to says 1500 rpm. It sits there for about a 1.5mins then gradually moves down just below 1k rpm. I read this as a signal to take off without a bouncy revs when I come to change down gears or stopping in traffic.
Again when I start the car from cold I avoid putting my foot on
the throttle as revs bounces between 1000-1500 rpm and only settle just below 1k rpm when warm.
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mate have you got the idle probllem sorted and if so what did you do as I have the same problem with mine just that sometimes when im driving and change gears the idle sometimes stays at 1500 rpm!!
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i have had to crimp theses wire about 5 times! they keep snapping theses wire go to the throttle senders one is fuel cutoff at full throttle and other is idle sender knows when throttle is shut!
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The other thing to check is the pleated air pipe from the box to the throttle body, in the pleats splits can develop, which are easy to miss cos they are hidden, listen carefully for sucking noises!
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mot due next month and my idle has started to play up...... it seems to idle normal at start up and then start idling at 2-3000rpm!
it seems it does this at every mot time! >:(
i checked the throttle wires and they arnt broke and seem ok!.....................
hammer time..............
break it down ;D
i'll have to figure out whats up!