GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: barry sprout on 20 October 2006, 17:03
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Dudes
New to Golfs (tho worked on other cars) so forgive my ignorance.
I have an 8v 1.8 Digi Mk2 1990 Hreg but the motor is going out to pasture. So buying a replacement unit.
Chatted to a lad who is selling a motor but he's not sure if it's off a digifant car or not. Obviously I wnat to plug it straight in and not have to faff about with changing loads of loom etc over (although the motor comes with all the ancillaries I believe.
The airbox and throttle boby assembly sounds the same size and shape as mine (big rectangular airbox attached to oval-ended throttle body casting via corrugated tubing) but the code numbers on the airbox and the attached throttle body are different to mine.
Codes on his airbox include AG51, LP911 and Filter No 113129620. The codes on his throttle body is 026133353B.
The code numbers on my airbox include AG297, LP1043 and Filter No 859129620. Code on my throttle body is 037133223A.
Wondered if anyone knew how different 1.8 engines can be and how this complicates swapping? I assume that the actual block is the same across the board, but that the head must differ between digi and kr units? Certainly the loom differs and the dizzy - I really want to buy a motor that's just plug and play for my car.
Any advice appreciated.
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Ask him for the engine code. You wan't a 'PB' engine for your car. This number should be stuck on the top of the cambelt cover. If the car is a MK2 GTI then it will either be Kjet or Digifant. If it is Kjet then there will be braided fuel hoses travelling from the metering head near the airbox to the fuel injectors on the head.
What registration is the car? If it is post 88 then it will most likely be a Digifant.
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Another way of telling is the actual position of your airbox vs his - unless I'm very much mistaken, the K-Jet's had the airbox on the nearside didn't they? Digi airboxes are on the offside.
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Has the bottom and head gone? Cause I've got a bottom end for a digi available, only done 85k pm if interested.
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Hey thanks
So let me get this right.....
It's got to be a PB engine to work at all.
If it's a Digi PB engine I can just lob it in.
If it's  Kjet engine I can't - BUT I'm getting all the complete motor and loom etc with it - so if it is a Kjet engine can I do the conversion reasonably easily into my car??
 :undecided:
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http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=46505.0
check that thread out for digi vs k-jet conundrums
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or stick a 2.0 mk3 motor in with a digi head engine code 2e is the best for this swap
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Hey thanks
So let me get this right.....
It's got to be a PB engine to work at all.
If it's a Digi PB engine I can just lob it in.
If it's Kjet engine I can't - BUT I'm getting all the complete motor and loom etc with it - so if it is a Kjet engine can I do the conversion reasonably easily into my car??
:undecided:
digi's are pb's........... k-jet can be fitted but not worth the extra work. the link neaty put up will show which is which...
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Yoo gents are scholars and acrobats to man
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Hi Mate,
Almost completed my digifant swap now, if you have any questions let me know as I check the forum all the time...
IT has taken me about 4 months, and I have spent quite abit on replacement parts. Many new bolts, screws etc...
I cudda done it far quicker if I had all the parts before I started :wink:
All in all the swap is very straight forward. Here is an outline of what I did;
1. Take bumper off
2. Unplug all water pipes and take radiator off.
3. Jack car up and unscrew driveshaft bolts to gearbox. You will need a spline key tool from halfords. Kinda like a star shaped head
4. Unplug all electric connections
5. Unscrew front engine mount, left-side mount and gearbox mount
6. Disconnect gear linkage.
7. Lift her out with engine crane....
Think thats is everything....
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Another way of telling is the actual position of your airbox vs his - unless I'm very much mistaken, the K-Jet's had the airbox on the nearside didn't they? Digi airboxes are on the offside.
nah in the mk2 they are on the same side
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Nice one GolfMk2Boy
I'll hav the spline tool thingbob -got one of those mahoosive socket sets fulla stuf yoo thort ud never use.....
How come it took ye 4 months!!? Now yoo got me worried!
Did you take the whole front member off? I got no hoist so may hav to try using brute force and stupidity.
Any particular problems or things to look out for that yoo encountered?
Cheers
Barry
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I wouldnt try lifting the engine yourself, no matter how strong you are, it will be difficult.
I also swapped the clutch on the replacement engine, I would recommend you do this unless you have bought engine plus gearbox.
If the cluth goes it may cost quite abit.
Still havent finished mine yet, i wont start :sad:
Think its an electrical fault.... oh, and now the fuel has decided to piss out the back!
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easies way to tell is look at the airbox, if there are a load of fuel lines comming off it then its k-jet, if not its digi.
Either way, the bottom end will work in your car if your old head is serviceble, just swap it over.
If not, you can convert a K-Jet head to Digi simply by pulling the injectors and swapping the inserts over :)
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Hi guys
OK... the story is this:
The engine I'm thinking of getting is defo a pb block :smiley: but with a k-jet head :sad:.
Its a full rebuild with performance head, BUT I have a digifant car....
Rubjonny - how easy is it to convert the K-jet head to work with my digi injectors and ancillaries? What's involved in replacing the injector inserts?
Anyone else experienced converting a K-jet head to use in a digifant car?
Cheers again (........nearly there!)
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its easy, the inserts unscrew with an allen key, I can't remember the size off the top of my head though. The only other thing you might have to change is the coolant flange on the front of the head, depending on what year your digi is :)
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Rubjonny
Thanks for the advice mate, sounds good.
So that's all there is to it? Just swap over the injector inserts and then I can plug the existing digi injection and loom into the kjet. In other words with the simple task of adapting the injectors to fit, a kjet or a digi engine will run equally well off either injection system?? Sounds too good to be true.....!
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yup, they are pretty much identical! Only real diff is the early engines had solid lifters and the later ones got hydralic. Both work equally well, just hydro tappets require less servicing as they self-adjust, where mechanical ones can need shimming when they get very worn.
Although I remember reading digis got larger exhaust valves, but when asked most people think k-jets are quicker anyway!
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............. most people think .................
:tongue:
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;)
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:grin:
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golfmark2boy
can I take you up on your offer of advice.........?
Just wondering what you recommend replacing and what I will need to buy prior to doing this engine swapathon.
I wud like to get it done quick as poss rather than faff about finding I need this and that bolt etc and having to wait a week at a time ordering bits..... we've all been there :cry:
I'm thinking I'll change engine mounts, and reading old posts sounds like the bolts can be corroded.... so maybe best buy new mounts with all bolts needed (what mounts did you use? my car is a daily drive but with a performance engine going in ?150bhp - but I'm not sure about solid mounts really).
Is there anything else that I shud be thinking about replacing when the engine is out and what bolts etc am I likely to need to pre-buy?
Thanks fer yor advice and I hope yoo got yors sorted :smiley:
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Most bolts wont need replacing, MK2s arnt that bad yet!
Heres a list I wrote out for my last engine conversion, this covers the actuall engine bits. You might want to overhaul the running gear while you're there, ball joints, track rod ends, bushes etc. Also during an engine conversion is a good time to convert to PAS if you plan to, makes fitting the rack a doddle!
10x head bolts
Head gasket (metal one is preferable, if 2.0 an ABF one, if 1.8 a G60 one)
Inlet manifold gasket
4x zaust manifold gaskets (they come seperate)
8x Copper zaust manifold nuts
Some zust manifold studs depending if any shear/come out with the nuts
Timing belt & tensioner (matched to whatever block you are using)
Solid rubber 16v/G60 rear mount (stronger)
Synta Silver oil & quality oil filter
Clutch kit
Gearbox input shaft seal, push rod bush & seal
Gearbox release bearing & end cap
Recommended bits:
Solid rubber 1.3/16v gearbox & front engine mounts
New alternator/pas etc belts
New metal coolant pipe
Thermostat & seal
Spark plugs, rotor arm & dizzy cap, air & fuel filters etc
Rubber cam cover gasket kit
Plastic coolant flanges that attach to the head
Redline MTL gearbox oil
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Brilliant! Fantastic advice, thanks a million.
And when can ya cum round and do it?! :wink: :grin:
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I just finished it 5 minutes ago :grin: