GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: mutant on 11 August 2006, 10:30
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Just bought an '89 GTI 16v, she's very nice but there are a few questions if anyone can help?
1. The boot lock is broken. It can be locked from the inside, but I am unsure how to do this, anyone know how to lock a boot from the inside until I can get a new lock?
2. Central locking doesn't work. Easy enough job or not worth bothering?
3. Electric Recaro's aren't hooked up. Were these standard seats, and if not, is there a loom there already or will i need to put one in?
4. MFA not working. The guy said something about it stopping working because he ran the battery down the other week. Said if i disconnect the positive from the battery for a few second then it will reset, is this true?
Thanks in advance!
Lee
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2. its run on vacuum so check to see if any pipes have fallen off. theres a pump in the boot in the left corner under the lights and take the door cards off and have a look at the pumps there.
4. pull out the fuse for the mfa for 10 secs or so and put back in.
dunno about the seats and i doubt the lock can be locked from the inside?
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if the loom is there u will see the connector poking thru the carpet if not u probably need to make on, they only really need an ignition live and an earth i think they are only motors
check the switch for the central locking in the drivers door, u will find it behind the door card its connected to the locking rods and is blue or balck i think
mfa fuse is number 21 or 22 i think check on the back of your fuse panel cover
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thanks guys. So theres no way of locking the boot from the inside or fiddling with the lock and then closing it? Don't really want it sat on the road with the boot unlocked :/
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whats wrong with the lock? you will have to turn the lock barrel to lock it
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the key just doesnt do anything, wont turn. I have a spare lock from an 8v, will put that on when i have the time, just dont want it unlocked til then. I'll probably have to give the guy i bought it from a ring and ask how he locked it. Also, might be a stupid question (I know sod all about electronics) but if I take the fuse out for the MFA it's not going to cause anything to fail is it?
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No it won't do anything but reset the MFA & clock, so you'll lose the short and long term memory for mpg and the like.
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ok thanks. am i right in thinking the 2 little buttons on either side of the mfa display are to set the clock?
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Yeah there's 2 little recessed buttons under the clock / mfa one for the hour and one for the minutes. You'll need something like a paperclip to work em though :)
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MFA now working again. Wasn't sure which fuse to take out because the fusebox cover didn't actually say MFA or anything on it, but guessed at fuse 3 and it reset it. Reset my cd player clock too, so don't know what else it will have had an effect on.
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To lock the boot from the inside, take the plastic trim pannel off and find the metal rod which runs to the blue lock pump. Push or pull the rod, it will click across and disconnect the button from the lock mech as it would on the central locking. To unlock it, simply click the rod the other way :)
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Boot sorted and MFA sorted. Still need to sort out central locking (nothing is locking/unlocking, which is worrying as some scally bast*rd is gunna nick my petrol cap and pour sugar in the tank knowing my luck) and still need to wire up the recaro's if anyone can help?
Thanks
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if you cant hear the central locking pump whine take off the drivers door card and see where the door pin metal rod goes to, its probably just dangling in the air
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Sorry, i'm a complete idiot when it comes to cars. How do i get it to work once the door card is taken off? And will that sort out the boot, petrol cap and passenger door too? Come to think of it, will an '89 16v have central locking? My '87 8v does, so surely this must have?
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It was never an option on the MK2, so it may or it may not ;) But if the petrol flap has a pin sticking out of it, and the cap has no lock then it probably does.
Once the doorcard is off, locate the blue pump in the drivers door, and try moving the pin by hand, and make sure that when the lock knob goes up & down the pin to the blue pump also moves :)
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Sorry, I'm at work and my brain is frying. So all i do is connect the pin to the pump in the drivers door and then everything should lock centrally? The petrol flap is run by central locking by the look of things, but the old owner said that the central locking never worked while he had the car, so i wasnt sure if it did have it or not. I'll whip the doorcard off after work if it ever stops raining!
Ta
Lee
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Find the pump in the drivers door, and check the rod coming off it moves when you lock/unlock the door. If it doesn't then thats the problem, try moving the rod by hand in this case and see if the CL pump springs to life.
If it does, then all you need to do is figure out why the rod isn't moving, normally the plastic lever on the lock snaps or the rod just pops off.
If the rods & pump all move as they should, then start looking at the wiring, especially where it runs thru the rubber door boots!
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Ok thanks. Hopefully it will be an easy fix, if it means fiddling with wiring i wont bother, my 8v died because of faulty wiring, dont think i'll risk it :p I have the 8v for spares so at least if somethings broken i can pull it from that.
Any idea on wiring the recaro's?
Thanks for all your help!
Lee
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Thats dead easy, all you need is a fused live & earth connection to the seats.
Earth just goes to the earth 'claw' next to the fusebox, and the live runs to one of the spades round the back of the fusebox.
If you unhook the fusebox, you'll see 2 groups of spade connectors, one side is live the other is ignition live :)
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so just 2 pieces of wire per seat? Do i just pull up the carpet and lay the wire down? Also, (sorry, i ask way too many questions :grin:) the recaro's have a plug connector on the end, i take it i just wire another plug to each of the paired wires and plug them in? Finally, wiring them wont destroy anything in the car will it? Dont want all my lights and wipers etc failing on yet another car :P
Lee
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Yeah all the seat wiring to the switches etc is internal, all you need to do is power them up :)
If you wire sumething wrong, it should blow the fuse before anything else, which is why you need to make sure the wiring you run to the seats has an inline fuse ;) I'm not sure what rating fuse the seats need though!
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argh, its beginning to sound more and more complicated. I'll give it a blast anyway, worst i can do is electricute myself :evil:
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Right, got round to checking the central locking today. Got the door card off and everything, and all the rods are connected to the pump (which works when the door is locked with a key). Any ideas on what i should do next? Looks like the pump is working, but isnt making anything else lock. Also, the electric mirrors aren't working either (it's ok cos they're set alright for me, bit annoying though) so I'm guessing it could be something to do with wiring to the drivers door? Sound about right? All the wires look ok though, they seem to be ok at a superficial level at least. Looks like its a lost cause unless my wiring theory is way off base, i can bodge a household plug but i don't think i wanna start fiddling with wires to the car. Any thoughts/ideas would be greatfully appreciated.
Thanks
Lee
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in that case it could just be some conneector has uunclipped somewhere.do they have a connector atall leading into the door?if yes this could be the fault.check to tightness.have you checked any other fuses atall?if not,(i know its tedious but it could fix it)pull out each fuse individually and check them?
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If all the electrics aren't working on that door, could it be to do with a bad earth as opposed to a bad +ve feed? Each circuit - i.e. c/l and e/m - probably has a different +ve wire going to each, as they're independantly controlled. If there's an electrical fault with two seperate circuits in the same section, could it not be the earth?
Just a thought.
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I thin when you have CL & leccy mirrors, they all run to a common power feed, so peel back the rubber boot between the car body&door and look for damaged wires.
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Which fuse is central locking or the mirrors?? Didn't say on the fusebox cover. It's an '89 if that helps. The mirrors i'm not bothered about, i can move them by hand, the only reason i want it sorting is because the boot lock is dodgy and has to be permanently locked, and i dont want some little scally walking past and pissing in my petrol tank. On my 8v, the central locking locks the drivers door first and you can hear the pump working as its locks everything else. On the 16v you can't even hear the pump, the only reason i know it work's is the fact i've watched it with the door card off. Can i just rip the main pump from the 8v and see if it makes everything work?
Cheers
Lee
P.S. Drivers door has dropped, and i tightened up the bolts but all this has done has made the door stiff, hasnt actually raised it at all. Best way to sort the door out?
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If its a pre CE2 model (hazard switch on dash) then cl is fuse #3, but its also for the radio & interior lights so prob not that. Leccy mirrors are fuse #12 :)
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No, not the fuse, replaced fuse #3 the other day when fitting a stereo (an hour of wondering why i wasnt getting power when hardwired, eventually twigged that i should check the fuses). I'll check fuse #12 later. which wires leading into the drivers door is for central locking? And where does it lead? Don't really like wiring problems, was just hoping i'd need the master pump replacing or something :/
Lee
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its something like red, & red/white IIRC!
Here's the wiring for the electric mirrors so you can check them too:
(http://www.moddin.net/images/temp/golf/elmirrors.jpg)
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get yourself a haynes manual. well worth the cash
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If the pump in the drivers door has the rubber tube attached ok then id now turn your attention to the pump motor in the boot. Its on the back pannel next to the light cluster. Its held in place by a rubber strap. Un hook the strap and release the pump. Check all wires are connected and ok. If they are then swap the pump with your one from the 8v.
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Right, sunny day yesterday and I'm scrapping the old 8v today so thought it time do something productive. Removed the main pump and front passenger + driver side pumps from the 8v. Connected the main pump in the 16v, and replaced the passenger side pump. Everything works fine, lock drivers door, everything locks, yippee. Put the doorcard back on the passenger side, try it all again, now it isn't working, but the petrol flap is staying locked. Returned to the car this morning to find the petrol flap unlocked again? What is going on here? When i have time at the weekend i'll also replace the drivers side pump, but that was connected, and must be working or else the first time i tried nothing would have locked? No fuses blown, i'm just stumped :undecided: any ideas?
Edit: Some other possible problems have also arisen.
1) Went on a long trip the other day (only 120 miles there and back but it's more than i usually do in one go). Checked the oil the morning i set off, and the dipstick was clean, no oil whatsoever. Got to the nearest garage, bought some oil, was about to put some in, checked level again and now thin oil was halfway up the dipstick (not the indicator, the actual dipstick, but the oil didnt 'start' at the bottom of the stick, more like halfway up it). Left it til i'd finished work, checked again, empty, so dumped a litre in, and it showed oil halfway up the oil level indicator, so left it. I'm now afraid to check, anyone know what could have caused this? Had no oil lights coming on or anything, so assumed it was ok.
2) Probably nothing but when i cut the engine it taps slightly, anything to be worried about? Coming from the passenger side under the bonnet, just single taps once every few seconds, then i walk away. Like i said, probably nothing, but it's my baby, sure you'll understand :p
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Tapping could indicate low oil starving your tappets. No idea about your dipstic woes though.
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the level will be different if you start the engine so only check it when its been sitting a few hours. id keep an eye on the level to see how quickly you loose the oil and if its fairly quickly then you will have to do something about it. but keep it topped up! if you only top it up now and then i wouldnt worry too much.
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Both the times i checked it were when it had been sat for 4 hours or more. Engine doesn't sound nasty, and it pulls alright, i'll have to check it again in the morning, but it should hopefully be ok, that was the first time i touched the oil since owning the car anyway, it could have just been low.
The tapping is just me being an idiot, just everything cooling down, one thing off my mind at least :p
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is where its parked on a slope?
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Occassionally but neither of the times i checked when it appeared empty. Will check it again after work. Haven't noticed any oil leaks, no puddles under the car etc. Hopefully it should stay ok, dont want this car to have any serious issues.
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You might just be being paranoid.
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There's no might about it, I AM paranoid :p My last gti died, if this one goes I can't afford another, so I need to hope and pray that this stays ok. MOT in october, guess we'll see then.
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Ah dont worry mate.