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Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: workhorse '90 8v on 18 December 2003, 12:50
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As we have no record of the last belt change on either of our cars
i'm hoping to do the change myself soon.
The Haynes manual doesn't make it look too hard, but there are a
couple of bits i'm not sure about!
Firstly (pages 2C.8 / 2C.9 section 9) paragraph 6 states "turn the
crankshaft sprocket...in the direction of engine rotation"
which way would that be? clockwise/anti-clockwise?
Secondly, paragraph 7 - "Now look through the hole in which the TDC
sensor goes where the timing marks show on the periphery of the
flywheel and note the reading."
You what?!!!!
and why?!!
Also i've heard that you should also renew the tensioner aswell as the belt ? Is this recomended?
So, any tips would be super appreciated!
Have any of you done a timing belt change at home with the usual
tools, nothing special?
Is it a b!tch of a job?!
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If u r having trouble understanding the manual I would not recommend you having a go really because if you do something slightly wrong and then start the car you can bend all the valves in the head and possibly further damage.
If u do decide to do it anyway then I believe you basically have to do the following. Loosen the tension retaining bolts, take belt off, use new belt and put new tensioner on, U need a special tool to get the tension of the belt correct as far as I am aware and it is not as easy as it sounds above I am sure..................well good luck with whatever ya do !! ::)
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I understand the manual fine thanx ;)
I was just querying the fact that looking down the top dead center
sensor hole seems to bare no relevance to the replacement of a
timing belt ?
Or maybe it does?
I need someone out there who has actually replaced a timing belt on a mk2 to let me know..
thanx anyway ;)
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an easy bodge way of doing it is, cut the exisiting belt in half all the way round
pull that half off, slide the new belt on - then pull rest of the old belt off and slide the new belt over
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It is important that the sprokets all remain in EXACT same position they may move when you take the belt off so you need a datum to work from. TDC marks allow you to check.
Personaly I set the cam sproket to TDC ( using the dot on the spocket to line up with the metal tab on the rocker box, and then mark a dot of paint on the crank sprocket and ajdacent teeth on the Aux sprocket.
Don't do it if you are not sure - big SH1t if you get it wrong.
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I understand the manual fine thanx ;)
I was just querying the fact that looking down the top dead center
sensor hole seems to bare no relevance to the replacement of a
timing belt ?
Or maybe it does?
I need someone out there who has actually replaced a timing belt on a mk2 to let me know..
thanx anyway ;)
If you get the engine to TDC using the pulley marks, to help verify you are at exactly TDC you can look through the TDC sensor hole at the flywheel. There are markings on the flywheel that line up with a small arrow head on the gearbox bell housing. I think its just more precise than using the pulley marks.
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Cheers guys!
Bdub - your method is v similar to the Haynes way.
Gambit - your 'bodge' method sounds excellent!
May try the full manual method tho..
I know all you guys are saying if your not sure don't do it,
but there always has to be a first time!
I would consider myself quite confident with the spanners (mechanics)
so I gotta go for it - if it fcks up, it fcks up!
But i'm sure it wont........ ;)
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By the way.........the tensioning tool makes life a lot easier, but isn't absolutely necessary.........in the past I have used two 1/8" drills and a large screwdriver.
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I like Gambits method 2 - taht sounds absolutely Tw4t proof - probably the one for me in future!!!!
By the way - I struggled to get the bottom pulley off having undone the 4 allen screws - ended up having to borrow a puller as it was well solid on the shaft. apart from this it was fairly easy.
Good luck
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Thanx richandhazel
the Haynes manuals are notorious for complicated discriptions and a
serious lack of photos/diagrams
Like with all the jobs i do, a slow methodical approach will see me through..
The last belt i got changed was on a mazda and it cost 120bucks!
so i figure DIY is the way forward (and i enjoy it).
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Gambits method it is then!!!
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make sure you get the belt from VAG
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make sure you get the belt from VAG
A belt is not a belt then?
Are there probs with non VAG belts?
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you have a comeback if the belt snaps within its life expectancy
something u dont if you get the belt from elsewhere
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you have a comeback if the belt snaps within its life expectancy
something u dont if you get the belt from elsewhere
Good point
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Gambits method it is then!!!
I like Gambits idea, however, could be tricky if you want to replace the tensioner too. I usually replace the tensioner every other cambelt change (80,000 miles)
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are the tensioners prone to failure?
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I've no history what so ever with my car, so i'm thinking i should replace the tensioner...
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i'd get the tensioner replaced also then
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Yep, they can fail. Usually the first sign that they are starting to fail is they start making a noise that can easily be mistaken for alternator bearing noise.........eventually they can sieze and break up.
Be aware though, overtightening the timing belt can cause the same noise..........
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Always get a new belt and tensioner from VW. I strongly recommend doing the job by the book, bodging it can be costly in the long run. If you want a bodge job go to kwik fit!
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Yeah :-*
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an easy bodge way of doing it is, cut the exisiting belt in half all the way round
pull that half off, slide the new belt on - then pull rest of the old belt off and slide the new belt over
Could a new belt be put on using this method, then the old tensioner removed and replaced?
Would save a load of hassle?
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To be honest its not a lot of hassle to do the job properly. If you are not sure either get someone to help you who knows or just get someone else to do it.
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Fair enough.
what sort of cost would we be lookin at with labour included?
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Under 200 quid all in.
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Under 200 quid all in.
Will deffinately be doing the work myself then!!!!!!
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I had my cambelt replaced a couple of months ago by a garage and it costs about 100 quid.
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Was that with a new tensioner? make sure you get genuine belt and tensioner from vw.