GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: ub7rm on 12 June 2006, 20:54
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Evening,
Have decided to replace my diverter valve to see if doing so will cure the (intermittent but becoming more frequent) problems of missing boost. Some times it just feels like there is isn't enough acceleration and accompanied with a louder hissing air noise - am I along the right lines with replacing the DV first? Think I'm just going to go with the Bosch one cos its cheap and this one has lasted about 70k miles so cant be that bad. Question is, I know I'm going to have to replace the funny clip on the pipe heading towards the turbo, but can I resuse the existing clip on the vacuum line and the one one the air intake (just a jubilee clip as far as I can see).
Going to have a shot at this myself at the weekend - any hints and tips from the pro's?
Thanks,
ron
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You could also have a split or loose intercooler pipe :undecided:, this would make a lot of noise and loose boost. Changing the DV is easy mate when you get the oold one off just put the new one on in reverse and use jubilee clips like you say :cool:
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piece of cake to change bud, my mate changed it in about 10 mins... he upgraded to a TT bosch dv which is better by all accounts :undecided:
cost approx £30 at the stealers
it took longer to get the wierd clips off, than it did to actually change the beast!! use jubilee clips on refiting tho'... much easier to get off in the future
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If you had a boost leak from one of the main boost pipes the car would run like a dog. Refusing to accelerate at all if you tried full throttle from low revs. Kinda acts like it's run out of fuel I thought. If the DV on the car now is stuck ever so slightly open it'll cause the problem you speak of. The reason why I don't think it's a boost leak is the MAF sensor just after the air filter has a value. I shall call this reading 'X'. There is also another sensor similar to the MAF one just after the thottle body on the inlet manifold. I shall this reading 'Y'. If X and Y readings are too far apart the engine management knows something is wrong and the car won't run right.
The standard DV is prone to dying. this is increased when you start increasing the output of the engine. I'm using the Bailey DV30 (£85) on my 20vT which gives a nice woosh noise during gear changes. If you're still using the standard air box the woosh will be somewhat quieter than mine!
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There is also another sensor similar to the MAF one just after the thottle body on the inlet manifold.
not if it's an AGU, but he didn't say.. so who knows!
Upgrading the DV is always a good idea, i suppose it is possible the diaphragm on the old dv has split, replacing with a piston type dv will prevent that happening again (forge / bailey etc..). I would think you'd hear more than a hissing noise though.
Could be a boost leak.. check all hoses as people have said.. could also be a vacuum leak to the dv, leaving it constantly open. Check the thin hose that goes to the top of the DV, along it's entire length.. check for cracks where it may have gone brittle with age.
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Muchos gracios for the replies, for info its an AUM engine.
Now for a dumb question, I was out having a look to see what size of clips i'll need and I was wondering where the pipe that connects to the DV and runs to a metal thing (scuse the technical jargon) between the engine and bulkhead is supposed to be routed. the pipe in question has a large rubber spacer on it and at present goes under the engine cover, is this supposed to be routed here or should it be routed outside the cover and resting against that?
Thanks again,
ron
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dammit toph! Now I'm not sure if I can use my AGU inlet manifold as it's missing that sensor and I dunno if my DTA needs that! :(
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i would imagine dta needs a map sensor.. can probably pinch one off an S2 or something though and just drill it into the manifold ?
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Spoke with Vince @ stealth today. he said he's 100% sure the AGU inlet manifold has that part I need. You also need a map sensor which I'm getting from him.
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piece of cake to change bud, my mate changed it in about 10 mins... he upgraded to a TT bosch dv which is better by all accounts :undecided:
cost approx £30 at the stealers
it took longer to get the wierd clips off, than it did to actually change the beast!! use jubilee clips on refiting tho'... much easier to get off in the future
any DV you buy from the stealers will be the TT one.
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OK got the part (last digits are 710N - I saw the definition somewhere, think thats the TT one???) anyway for those who replaced thier DV with a Bosch one, what did you use to secure the vacuum tube with? The jubilee clips I bought are too big in the sense that the screw tightening part wont allow the clip to go down into the recess on top of the DV.
Is that hose vacuum only? I'm thinking of secureing it with a cable tie until I can find something more suitable, is this a bad idea folk??
Thanks,
Ron
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I just pushed mine onto the top. never came off. it does handle boost pressure, but only opens the valve with vacume.
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I got a really small jublee clip from a small DIY/Plumming supplies type store, cost 20p!! fits fine over the top vacuum hose
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OK,
changed the DV... and hasn't made much difference :cry:. From reading here I am half thinking the MAF sensor might be the next thing to eliminate but the car idles fine and runs perfectly smoothly. Its just sometimes I not getting enough acceleration for the revs which makes me think its turbo related. Starting out in first you can feel 'normal' power and then it just drops away. When this happens there is more of a rushing air sound to the turbo spin up than when it runs fine. I did notice that at the botom connection of the vacuum pipe it looked a bit crazed (like me with this problem) but didnt seem to have any obvious splits.
Any help appreciated :smiley:
PS I couldn't find a small enough clip anywhere, ended up pulling the hose of with stupid clip attached then just pushing the pipe with clip back on, will have another hunt this weekend.
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If your worried about it coming off use a zip tie, but as it is vaccum then there is no pressure being blown thru the pipe, meaning it wont blow off.
On my old 1.8t running over 200bhp I never had a prob and mine was just pushed on