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Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: golfmk2boy on 27 April 2006, 20:31
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Help!..
I tried to remove the big bumper tonight. I manged to get one side off pretty easily however the other side's nuts wont move one bit.
Has anybody got any tips for loosening bolts, I have coated them in wd40,
Cheers
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pure brute strengh mate, try letting the WD40 soak in for a while then put more on and let that soak then more then get a scafolding pole for leverage if they still dont undo,
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Take the grill off and you can just see into the end of the box section and with a torch the ends of the captive nuts. Get some spray penetrating oil with one of those extension tubes and give the captive ends a good soaking. Try tightening the bolts 1/8 of a turn first to break the grip of the rust before you undo them. Don't try to undo them in one go, keep doing them back up a bit to work the penetrating oil in, I just kept winding mine and it ripped the captive nut out! :angry: - best of luck with it :smiley:
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if you haven't done it already... take out the indicator and you can get to the tops where you can coat the feckers in loads of wd40, then as the others say, get heavy with a breaker bar, or even better take it to a local garage to get them to buzz them off with a air gun.
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Aye,
I will try again tomorrow night. Problem is is that I have hired an engine lifter crane to take the thing out this weekend and put the new engine in. Dont think I am gonna get it all done though.
Im sure there will be far more problems to come. I havent even started on the driveshafts and disconnect the gearbox parts...
ARRGH!!!
Hope the other engine is better. Suppose it doesnt matter really tho, I can keep working on it.
thanks guys.
Do you think putting a cig lighter to the surrounding part might warm it up and loosen it enough ? :wink:
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dunno bout cig lighter but i found gas soldering iron helped when i was doing cv joint an had a siezed nut.
:smiley:
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Have you tried a Butane gas torch that plumbers use? Be careful not to melt anything though!
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you dont have to take the bumper off to change an engine anyway it just more to put back on! :grin:
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Wanna borrow my angle grinder?? :grin:
As everyone else says... Soak it in WD40.... from the bottom and the top....
Jack the car up nice and high so you can get right underneath it for good leverage. You want a big 1/2 drive bar breaker for these bad boys. They usually creak loads when ya undo them too.. :wink:
Gooduck
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dont break it cos you'll be proper foooooked if ya do!lol :grin:sorry :tongue:
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there bl00dy huge bolts... If you break one of them, id take the hoist back, your be able to lift the engine in with your bare hands. :laugh:
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Hm....
Dunno whether I am gonna take the bumper off now...
Ive got some things lined up tho, like a new suspension kit ( should be coming next week) and some g60 arches (again next week, fingers crossed.
I think the front bumper will have to come off to fit the arches? :undecided:
I havent soaked the top of the bolts yet, only did underside.... one of the bolts is fooked abit I think anyway......
Thanks for the help lads!
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Take the headlight off on the side where the siezed bolt is, you can get much better access that way, as said soak the top of the nut with proper penatrating oil, WD40 is ok, but its not as good as the proper stuff.
Then get a big breaker bar on it, if you havent got one yet you'll never get the engine out I tell the, its an essential piece of kit :grin:
You'll never get the driveshafts off if you don't, the hub nuts are uber-turbo-nutter-bastard tight! (assuming you need to take them off completly?)
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unbolt it from the box and let it drop out the bottom?jack the fronmt of the motor up as high as you can get it and slide it out from underneath you can do it this way on your own and put it back the same way on your own if needed but i would advise you get somebody to share the weight with you :grin:
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As already stated WD40 is ok but its best to get a proper penetrating oil like PLUS GAS, quite expensive but you dont need that much. Also you get a good high of the smell :smug:
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Jack it up a bit at front, and use one of those extendable tyre irons/wheel nut wrench's. Gives much better torque done this before to get mine off after a soak with wd40.
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Cheers guys,
Hacent soaked the top yet, so I will do this tonight.
I havent got a big breaker bar, think I will get one. After the driveshafts have been taken off I presume the next thing to remove is the exhaust onto the engine.... How do I get in bhind there to remove it?
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Right, this is something I tackled the other day! Whichevcer method you go for, coat all the nuts/studs with a ton of plus gas or whatever a couple of hours before you start :)
You have 2 choices, either take the 8 bolts holding the manifold to the head, or the 6 bolts holding the manifold to the downpipe. If you go for the 6 downpipe bolts, be aware you'll probably shear one or more of the studs! The 3 closest to the engine are easy to get to from underneath once you unbolt the driveshaft heatshield from the engine, the 2 on the outside near the bulkhead are tricky but doable from here. The middle one is a bit of a pain, as there aint much room. What we did was remove all the zaust mounting rubbers, and pull the head forward (the head was unbolted from the block) and use a good spanner with a length of tube on it, that did the trick. In your case you can pull the whole engine forward.
If you decide to remove the manifold from the head (in this situation this is what I would do) Then remove the inlet manifold first to give you room then take off the manifold nuts. use a good 6 point socket, and make sure you hammer it on fully, go steady and most if not all of the nuts will come out complete with the studs attached. If you are unlucky and one rounds off, get a dremmel on it and chop the nut in half. Then get 2 nuts on the stud & remove it. If you're very unlucky and the stud shears off, chop it down as glose to the head as you can, then drill it out starting with a fine drill bit & work your way up, then use a tap & die to clean out the thread.
Then all you need is 8 fresh studs from VW, and a set of copper nuts. Put it together with plenty of copper grease too :)
The third option is to unbolt the entire subframe, remove the front shocks, stering U/J & zaust mounts and roll the engine forward on the front wheels. The danger with this is you might shear off the subframe captive nuts, which require cutting holes in the footwell and welding back into place :shocked:
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or you could get underneath and undo you down pipe from the exhaust,go back to the top and take off rocker cover and undo all 10 ofthe head bolts.make sure all pipes and wires are dissconnected.dont forget to block the fuel lines with a bolt and jubilee clip!!you will need to remove the air box aswell.then you will be ready to remove the head with the exhaust manifold and inlet manifold all still attached its alot easyier to undo things when you can see what youre doing??oh befor i forget cambelt tensioner will need undoing and the cam belt will need to come off.
there are quite a few ways of skinning a cat(removing an engine)???doing it this way makes it easeir to remove the block as it isnt as columbersum and heavy.either that or just take your bonnet off get a strap round it and lift it straight out after its seperated form the box.its all down to preference and caperbility. :grin:good luck
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I have picked up my engine lifter crane, just need to get some chains in the morning.
I still couldnt get the two bumper bolts off from the driver side :sad:
I was thinking of getting under the car and removing the exhaust pipes to the bottom end.
Where are the petrol pipes which I will need to block. Will fuel go everywhere if I dont?
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there may be a little fuel pressure in the lines, remove the fuel pump relay and turn the engine over, that should suck most of it out then leave it for a few hours before you crack the lines off. Have a rag round the pipe when you undo it to catch any spray, should cover it :)
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Managed to remove the bolts this morning after coating them with wd40 last night.
Front end is completely removed now. Just need to disconnect driveshafts and exhausts and I should be near to removal of the engine.
IS there anything else i will have to look out for or do to remove the engine... I know that I will have to disconnect gearbox from mounting aswell.... but I do not know whether I will need to disconnect driveshafts from gearbox.
Any suggestions? :smiley:
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Disconnect hte shafts from the gearbox & leave them in, assuming you're using the same gearbox, or another one the same. No reason to take the shafts out unless youre putting in a different gearbox or need to do any of the CV boots.
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I will be swapping the gearbox over to the other engine.
So should I just disconnect the shaft from the gearbox? :undecided:
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yeah remove the gearbox ends of the shafts, you'll need a spline head tool though.
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Hi,
Sorry.... should I remove the driveshaft connection onto gearbox, or remove the driveshaft wheel connection.
Sorry for sounding like such a plonk :undecided:
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driveshaft -> gearbox connection
leave the shafts attached to the wheels :)