GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: soulman_uk on 24 April 2006, 20:57
-
Golf 1.6 2001.
Hi, :)
I was wondering how you go about cleaning brake pads and why and how often you do it ?
is it just a case of taking the wheel off and and erm... dont know how the pads come out ? and cleaning them with a brush ? and putting them back in (do you need to smear any of that copper grease on them?)
cheers
-
hi m8y.... to get the pads out, first you have to (take the wheel off :laugh:)...undo 2 securing pins at the rear of the caliper.
i think the pins take a 7 or 8 mm allen key (mine needed a bit of persuation to get them turning :evil:)
once you have done this the caliper comes off the car (support the rubber hose).
the pads should be easily removed from there, grease up the outside walls (obviously) to stop squeel.
and refit in reverse (as Haynes says :smiley:)
why do you want to clean the pads anyway?? doesnt friction do that?? :undecided:
-
If there the ones with the clip on the backs of the pad they shouldnt need any grease at all. As welshgar said you need a 7mm allen key but if they are really tight laser make a massive 7mm hex tool with a handle made specially for calipers halfords do em for a few pound and just makes the job a bit easier. You can clean the disks with brake cleaner by spraying it on and just letting it evaporate.
-
thanks for that.
I had a recent problem in the thread titled "guess the sound". and it was suggested I might have a small stone between my pad (not the case though wish it was) turned out to be the wheel bearing.
was googling a bit and came across a few sites talking about pad cleaning and wondered about it etc brake pad dust build up etc. But as you say friction takes care of it I guess.
All useful to know about as I want to change the pads and discs myself when the time comes to help save a few £'s and gain a few extra skills.
I get taking the pads and disc off (Theory wise), not sus'd out what this brake bleeding bit is about I think something about pushing the old fluid out and read about the EZ bleed system the one man tool to doing it yourself lol. Coming up to my brake fluid change interval so thats my next port of call.
/me stops ramblin lol
-
You can buy brake cleaner but I have never used it myself - I'm not sure if you have to make sure it does not go onto the friction part of the pad.
The way I have always done it is to remove the pads from the caliper - note which side of the disc they come from and brush the back of the pad and caliper housing with a small wire brush then finish off with an air-line if you have it. Be carefull not to tear any of the rubber dust seals on the caliper with the wire brush.
I put a small amount of copper grease onto the back of the pad and on the edges of the backing where it makes contact with the caliper housing - make sure no grease goes onto the friction surface or the brake disc.
-
Brake bleeding is simply undoing the bleed nipple put on the bleed kit, pumping the brake pedal which forces any air and old fluid out and at the same time keeping the resevoir full so new fluid is pulled in. Then you just repeat it for each wheel in order.
-
Ahhh I see makes sense and sounds simple enough for myself to do. My garage quoted me £60 to do this.
But I'll do it myself, save a few quid. Obviously have to shell out a few quid but will end up a saving some money and getting more into how things work.
Plus am a dab hand at finding nipples. :grin:
-
Check with a haynes first just incase it isnt like i said and for the order in which to do them.
-
if you have a copy of the Haynes manual, it should be quite easy to take the pads and discs off....
although sometimes the disc (which is held on by a small phillips grub screw) is difficult to remove from the hub...... it sorta "welds" itself on (via heat and cold...expansion and contraction)
only in some instances tho'.....dont let it put you off. :undecided:
by the way, i changed the pads and discs on my mk4 and didnt bleed them?!?!?!
you have to push the caliper piston back though before you can put new pads (which are thicker) back around the disc.......a v.big pair of pipe grips does this a treat :smiley:
its not that hard, just have a crack at it, whats the worst that can happen?? :laugh:
(ps, pump the brake pedal a bit after you have changed the brakes, and test at low speed if at all wary )
-
Sounds like it something I can do so will definitely give it a go when it needds doing. Will read the haynes and familarize myself with the particulars. I've got a c clamp which should help me push the piston back to allow room for the new unworn pads.
Rest of kit isnt hard to get, I have most of the basic toolkit other than a gizmo to do the bleeding. Read a couple of guides last night about it. Only thing I dont have is axle stands. They say dont just use a jack secure it properly. Still cant do no harm getting the correct kit as over the years I will no doubt be handling all my own repairs. Might have to shell a few quid out on these things but worth having.
Will go over the haynes this weekend when I have the time. Basically a matter of working your way around the car doing one wheel at a time, removing the wheel, pads (caliper) disc (propbably more figity than it sounds) and doing the reverse adding a little grease to the back of the pads and bleeding each wheel in turn, in a nutshell. But as I say I have not read the procedure properly so I may have misssed something.
My car is a vw golf 1.6s petrol 2001 which leads me on to my next question where do I get the parts I will needs the pads, discs, grease (hopefully all from same place)
Local garage quote me £370 to do front and backs, but I want to do it myself. :wink:
-
if you have a copy of the Haynes manual, it should be quite easy to take the pads and discs off....
although sometimes the disc (which is held on by a small phillips grub screw) is difficult to remove from the hub...... it sorta "welds" itself on (via heat and cold...expansion and contraction)
only in some instances tho'.....dont let it put you off. :undecided:
by the way, i changed the pads and discs on my mk4 and didnt bleed them?!?!?!
you have to push the caliper piston back though before you can put new pads (which are thicker) back around the disc.......a v.big pair of pipe grips does this a treat :smiley:
its not that hard, just have a crack at it, whats the worst that can happen?? :laugh:
(ps, pump the brake pedal a bit after you have changed the brakes, and test at low speed if at all wary )
Before you (depending on whether it's the front or rears) push/wind the pistons back, make sure you take the lid off the brake fluid reservoir, to relieve some of the pressure, as you don't want to split any of the piston seals. :wink:
-
Before you push/wind (depending on front or rears) the pistons back, make sure you take the lid off the brake fluid reservoir, to releive some of the pressure, so you don't split any of the piston seals. :wink:
forgot to mention that... :embarassed:
cheers Ivormk4T
-
Sounds like it something I can do so will definitely give it a go when it needds doing. Will read the haynes and familarize myself with the particulars. I've got a c clamp which should help me push the piston back to allow room for the new unworn pads.
Rest of kit isnt hard to get, I have most of the basic toolkit other than a gizmo to do the bleeding. Read a couple of guides last night about it. Only thing I dont have is axle stands. They say dont just use a jack secure it properly. Still cant do no harm getting the correct kit as over the years I will no doubt be handling all my own repairs. Might have to shell a few quid out on these things but worth having.
Will go over the haynes this weekend when I have the time. Basically a matter of working your way around the car doing one wheel at a time, removing the wheel, pads (caliper) disc (propbably more figity than it sounds) and doing the reverse adding a little grease to the back of the pads and bleeding each wheel in turn, in a nutshell. But as I say I have not read the procedure properly so I may have misssed something.
My car is a vw golf 1.6s petrol 2001 which leads me on to my next question where do I get the parts I will needs the pads, discs, grease (hopefully all from same place)
Local garage quote me £370 to do front and backs, but I want to do it myself. :wink:
Yeah, def have a go yourself. You can get all the parts from www.buypartsbuy.co.uk very cheaply.
VW wanted £250 just to change front discs & pads. Parts from said website cost about £67!!!
-
Great stuff guys!
Just what I needed. Cheers for the tip on opening the brake fluid res. I had no idea about that. :shocked:
I cant believe how much garage charge to do something like this! I'll save a mint and have the time to do it ... what sunday afternoons are for :smiley:
Hopefully thats all I need to know to do this. Will go over the fine detail again before I do it, just to make sure i haven't missed anything ... dont fancy going cap in hand to a garage and telling em' I nutted something up :grin:
-
Just an idea of cost for you mine was £25 for each disc (brembos) from GSF and the pads from VW were £32 inc vat after trade. At halfords we sell discs and pads for your car for about £50-60. Make sure you know what pads you have before buying them as some have wear indicators. Rears should be just a bit more than half the cost of the fronts. Piston windback tools cost about £10 to £20.
-
Yep, you'll need that special tool for the rears (look on ebay or borrow one like I did), 13 & 18mm socket, 13 and/or 15mm spanner, 7 or 8mm allen key, copper slip or brake pad grease, flathead/phillips screwdrivers. (I think that's it!!! :grin:).ÂÂÂ