GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: mk28vpb91 on 30 November 2003, 13:13
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Have started to notice blue smoke in the rear view mirror. It only appears when I push the accelerator after idling for periods and after going down hills with the throttle closed. I assume that the engine is sucking in oil past the valves as an alternative to fuel and air.
Does it sound like seals to you guys or could it be something else?
What involved in renewing the seals? Having skimmed over Haynes it looks like a cylinder head off job. Which I don't fancy, as I haven't got the time or the facilities (lock-up full of other stuff).
Any idea how much it would cost to get done? 200-300 UKP? During 13 years of running (mainly crap) cars I have never taken one to a garage for anything other than tracking and tyres, so I haven't got a clue.
Cheers,
Max
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You can change the seals with the head still on, use compressed air through the spark plug hole. Do a compression test, make sure all the rings are ok.
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I've got the same problem & from the research I've done so far its not a cheap repair :'(
I've been quoted about ?300.00 but it all depends whether the guides themselves need attention, which until the head is off, you can't be sure ???
To have a head recon'd, I've been quoted ?390.00 which is ridiculous, VW sell complete heads (with cam etc) for ?420.00 (exchange) but I haven't looked into it thoroughly yet, if I find a reasonable price, I'll let you know!
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If the guides are worn, this will show on compression test, ie. poor valve seating = low compression.
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Thanks VR6. I assume that the compressed air stops the valves from dropping down into the cylinders. Great if you have a compressor unfortunately other prioties dictate that a MIG welder gets bought first the minute I get the money (mental note to stop buying cars that have had previous owners :-). )
How many hours do you reckon it would take to renew the seals using normal methods (remove head, valve spring compressor)? Weekend job or should I book some time off work?
My Mk2 8v has done 93,000, been told that Golf engines should be good for a lot more. Are problems with valve stem seals common?
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I'll always avoid taking the head off if I can.
One alternative I have come across to using compressed air is to insert as much non-fraible rope as you can through the spark plug hole, whilst the piston is down. Then bring the piston up and compress the rope against the valve, hence holding it up. Might be worth a try.........
It does sound like its your valve guide oil seals and with only 93,000, I'm sure thats all it is.........valve guides should be good for double that if its been looked after.
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I'll always avoid taking the head off if I can.
One alternative I have come across to using compressed air is to insert as much non-fraible rope as you can through the spark plug hole, whilst the piston is down. Then bring the piston up and compress the rope against the valve, hence holding it up. Might be worth a try.........
It does sound like its your valve guide oil seals and with only 93,000, I'm sure thats all it is.........valve guides should be good for double that if its been looked after.
Rope bit works the trick. safer than compressed air if your valves are questionable too. My luck with the compressed air is that I would push on the spring compresser a bit hard to free a stuck retainer and break the seal and down goes the valve. gauranteed to make you say bad words and throw tools. :)
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You've brightened up my day a bit, thanks :).
Knowing my luck, even getting near to removing the cylinder head would lead to all sorts of problems with the head gasket, exhaust etc. etc. so it's well worth leaving it where it is. The fact that I recently changed the timing belt and will have to disturb it, is annoying enough.
I assume that you still need a tool to compress the valve springs. There's something that looks good for the job in the Machine Mart (18 quid) catalogue next to a compressed air adaptor (11 quid) which you would need to use the method VR6 suggested.
I am wondering, if this sort of job would cost upwards of 300 quid to get done by someone more capable with a spanner than me, then I could just about convince my girlfriend that the cost of a compressor (200 quid) is justified ;D. I do not think that is possible to have too many tools.
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Phoned my local VW specialist today. Replacement stem seals (head in-situ as VR6 suggested) would cost UKP 150 - 200 :(, to change the valve guides would cost upwards of UKP 600 :'(.
They reckon that changing the seals would only be a temporary fix and that dodgy guides were probably the cause of premature seal failure. This sounds reasonable, as I suppose that worn guides would make the seals work harder. Any opinions?
In the meantime I will keep an eye on consumption and try to grin and bear the embarassment of a smokey motor.
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Get a compression test done, if ok then the guides are fine. The seals are well known to go, so i suggest they are trying to rinse you for some cash!
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I'll get my gauge out at the weekend. Is there anything I should know, I assume that I:
-Need to take all plugs out (anything else needed to be disconnnected?)
-Connect compression tester
-Have assistant turn engine over with throttle fully open
-Check reading and repeat on all cylinders.
If the compression number are low and it's the piston rings then squirting oil will down the spark plug hole should result in better compression. Otherwise I guess I definitely have a problem.
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Disable or ground the ignition system, remove the fuse for fuel pump. If compression is low then add a teaspoon of oil, if improves then worn piston ring/bore, if no improvement then worn valve seat/guide.
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They reckon that changing the seals would only be a temporary fix and that dodgy guides were probably the cause of premature seal failure. This sounds reasonable, as I suppose that worn guides would make the seals work harder. Any opinions?
In the meantime I will keep an eye on consumption and try to grin and bear the embarassment of a smokey motor.
In my experience, valve guide oil seals do fail without there being anything wrong with the valve guides. The rubber becomes hard and brittle and then fails.
Well worth trying the compression check to identify whether you have a problem with the valves, just in case.