GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: golfmk2boy on 05 April 2006, 14:16
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Hi,
Again I have had my mk2 tuned after swapping out the distributor for a new one in order to eliminate the pinking from the cylinders....
Unfortunately my mechanic couldnt stop it pinking and told me that there must be a more serious mechanical problem somewhere within the block.
Dont know what to do.... sell, or leave on drive to rot. Cant afford a replacement engine..
DAM!!!
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Dont worry so much. If its still pinking then the timing may be out a tooth or so. Or it may be a sticky valve. Either way it aint too bad. I would get another garage to have a look. Maybe a more experienced one.
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Yeh... might do.
I might take rocker cover off just to see whether the cam has been modified.
I only wish I had a spare £400 to get a decent valver.
Cheers. :cry:
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Get another garage to have a look, as sometimes garages will say something to gauge whether you know anything about an engine or not, and try to get some more cash out of you. It could be one of the valves is sticking or the timing belt has slipped a few teeth and needs re-aligning.
If you do end up selling then, you will need to sell as spares and break it as it would be the only way to try and re-coup some of the cash you have spent on it.
Edit: damn beaten to it.  :grin:
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Well at least we both agree :grin:
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I'd recommend going somewhere else. Garages like to tell lies if they don't want to do the work! I took my Peugeot into one after I sent it through a puddle. They told me I'd bent 4 valves, conrods and the crank. Someone else inspected it and it was just one rod!
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8v GTI I presume?
Using 98 ron fuel?
What rpm does the pinking start? Can advise more with this info. Do not despair yet! :smiley:
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Hi,
Again I have had my mk2 tuned after swapping out the distributor for a new one in order to eliminate the pinking from the cylinders....
Unfortunately my mechanic couldnt stop it pinking and told me that there must be a more serious mechanical problem somewhere within the block.
Dont know what to do.... sell, or leave on drive to rot. Cant afford a replacement engine..
DAM!!!
Do not be dishearted mate, if it is the engine i could sort you out a 1.8GL with carb or a 1.6 driver motor . . . . drop me an e-mail if you need one.
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Its an 8valve gti using 97 RON ultimate unleaded.
Er.... higher ron should be better, but the pinking was really bad around 3000rpm.
The guy who comes is really good, he mentioned that it is possibly something to do with the cylinder travel inside the block. One of them is probably knackered.
I am wondering whether it could be the timing belt, or something to do with the cam possibly being modified in the past.
Not sure.... I love my golf, the project is at a complete stop now...
:cry:
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Take the car to an experienced VW specialist, where are you based?
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The only thing within the engine block which could cause the problem, assuming it is unmodified, is the pistons being well coked up which would increase the compression ratio. If the pistons are coked then the combustion chambers in the cylinder head will be as well. If the compression ratio is up you will need to increase the ron of the fuel (difficult but if you can get Tesco 99 ron give it a try) or alternatively retard the ignition timing from the VW specification. Do you know how to retard the timing? If the cam is not standard this could also cause a problem if the timing and fuel metering are not adjusted to suit it.
Other things which can cause pinking are a weak mixture and the engine running too hot. You may have a faulty metering head or injectors which are not delivering enough fuel at the critical rpm (normally the rpm where maximum torque occurs), you may have an air leak somewhere between the metering head and the cylinder head making the mixture weak on one or all cylinders. There are just so many things or combinations of things it could be. Firstly I would check all the vacuum pipes to make sure there are no leaks and if that does not help try retarding the timing a little at a time by up to 5deg to see if you can get rid of the pinking, if you can get rid of the pinking that way then the problem probably lies somewhere in the fuelling mixture. I'm not suggesting you leave the ignition retarded to overcome the problem permanently, but at least you will know the engine is not knackered, you just need to look at all other the other possible factors..... Lost the will to live yet?  :smiley:
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Hi,
Thanks for the info!.
The guy who came yesterday retarded the timing enough to almost stop the pinking however it is near being unsafe. There is little power now, and everything sounds like it is coming out of the back end. It struggles to overtake a scooter now :embarassed:
I have had the air pipes checked, however the guy who checked them was retarted, nearly as much as my timing, so I couldnt eliminate the possibility of an air leak somewhere. Is there any way to check for leaks?
Also, I havent messed with timing myself. How do you do this, I know it can be quite an in-depth thing to do.
I might consider a rebuild in the future of my engine. If I had a valver I would deffinately get it rebuilt.
I got quote £850 for engine rebuild, does this sound right?
Again thanks for the help fellas!
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What engine managment is it, K-Jet or Digi? If its Digi check my 'how to tune your digifant' post in the MK2 maintenance + info section, if its k-jet look through the bit about setting the static timing, sounds like its not been setup correctly. If it is a digi try replacing the knock sensor too :)
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What does coked mean?
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build up of carbon deposits on the bores/cylinder/head etc. If it gets bad can cause hot spots in the cylinder and pre-ignition. Not good for a healthy engine ;)
Trickling a bit of water into the inlet can help shift it, as can injector cleaner in the fuel.
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Would it be worth putting some Redex in to clean out the crap from the engine?
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Could also be low fuel pressure due to a 'warm up regulator' fault. I'm getting a bit out of my depth here but I've read somewhere that the WUR reduces the fuel pressure during cold starts, it may be that its faulty and not switching the system back to full pressure when warmed up. Could even be low pressure from the fuel pump. Also the underside of the airflow sensor flap can get pretty messed up with gunge which makes the flap heavy and weakens the mixture but I've never seen one so bad yet that might cause this but worth a look. Got to be worth checking everything before you chuck the engine! :smiley: ('scuse me if I'm talking b****cks)