GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: rowlers on 13 March 2006, 16:55
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when fitting new struts and spring do you tighten the stru nut all the way until it locks, i.e.to the bottom of the thread on the strut, or just enough so that it compresses the spring??
reason I ask is since putting my old std. struts and springs back on, the steering just isn't right, it makes and knocking noise on full lock both ways, and feels dead light anywhere in between. also the slightest bump in the road feels like it is going to knock the wheels off!
cheers for any theories!!!
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Hi, just did the front top mounts on mine a couple of weeks ago so its fairly fresh with me. Tighten all the nuts all the way. make sure you get washers & spacers in the right order. If your steering's gone 'light' it means you're running on the inside or outside edges of the tyres. I expect the front wheel camber has been upset in the change and the tyres will have worn to suit the old set up. Its easy to check the camber, (not so easy to adjust), the tracking will have gone out in the change as well. Are you using the same strut top mounts on the front or old ones, they may be knackered? Hope this is of some help. :smiley:
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same top mounts, but got some new ones order the G60 ones.
I can't see how the tracking can be affected though? It still runs straight, only difference is though I sold my RMs and am currenlt running 14'' montreals on old(ish) tires, I am blaming the light poor steering on this, but it doesn' explain the knocking/slipping sound on full lock. It feels likes I'm bumping over stone in the road!
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another symptom is that the sterring wheel doesn't return to straight as qucikly as it used after you turned a corner, it seems to be happy to drive in circles all day!
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Tracking does not affect direction of travel it adjusts the toe in/toe out which can affect the directional stability. If the self centreing has gone thats a good sign that the camber (and maybe caster) is out, its probably gone a bit positive it should normally be about half a degree negative. I don't know the year of your car but we've had an 87 16v and an 89 driver and the camber was adjustable by quite a bit on those. On my 90 16v it is not. If you let the suspension hang while you're doing up the two big strut to hub bolts the camber tries to go positive due to the slop in the bolts & holes, you have to get someone to push in on the joint while you do the bolts up to make sure the camber stays negative. Adjusting to minus 1/2 degree is more complex but can be done DIY. Don't bother with tracking 'til you've sorted the camber because adjusting the camber changes the tracking (but not vice-versa). If you adjust the tracking (which can also be done DIY) make sure you do it equally both sides or the steering wheel will be off centre, esp important if you have PAS.
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alot of info for me to take in there! Ms steering wheel is off centre but has been for ages!
I have a 90 16v.
My new springs and mounts should be here soon, so will strip it all back down and see how it goes from there.
I get what you man about the hang whe the bolts are lose, I'm guessing they will ahve been hagning then tightened up, I'll push them in as suggested before I tighten up.
cheers
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Hi There,
I have a 1990 G60 and I changed the spings all round this weekend. The previous spings had a drop of about 60mm on standard shocks which was painful and I have just put on a set on Eibach Pro's (30-40mm). This has dramatically improved handling and feel of the car but I have got 'light wheel' syndrome. The tracking is fine but steerng does feel light and if anything slightly more responsive - therefore does chamber need looking at, will i get uneven wear?
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If you remove the struts for any reason you need to get the camber checked again and any alteration to the ride height will change the camber. It's not cheap to get it checked but cheaper than new tyres
barkstar :nerd:
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I'm going to have a look on friday, maybe I'll see something obvious or not!
I'm still blaming alot on the smaller wheels though. as trhe suspension now seem harsh even though it is still std!
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Just to add, if adjusting the tracking ONLY adjust the right hand track rod NOT both, then adjust the position of the steering wheel afterwards.
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Hmm, yes, thanks for correcting me one that one :embarassed:, non PAS racks only have adjustment on the drivers (RH) tie rod end, PAS racks adjust on both ends, the LH end must be set to a specified dimension first before making ajustment on the RH end.
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Just to add, if adjusting the tracking ONLY adjust the right hand track rod NOT both, then adjust the position of the steering wheel afterwards.
But always check the left track rod end, if it has been replaced by an adjustible one (you cant buy the non-ajustible ones anymore) then you'll want to check the length of the track arm to make sure its setup properly. The measurments are in the Haynes :)
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the tracking was checked recently and was within tolerance. Can I knock the tracking out fitting new struts???
Just got my new springs, new G60 mounts on there way, but can't fit this weekend cos I'm going to chester with the wife! She won't be too happy if I decide to work on the golf instead!
theres defo something not quite right, even though it still handles like it should!