GolfGTIforum.co.uk
General => Car audio => Topic started by: paladin on 22 November 2003, 21:56
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I was trying to install a trigger for a powered sub in my Mk3 by using the (Brown/red) ignition wire (which seeemed to be the switch for the radio and door chimes).
Well, no more chimes, no more radio.
I disconnected the patched wire and can't find any blown fuses in the panel, but still no chimes nor radio.
Help!
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retrace your steps before it all stopped working. if none of your fuses are blown something must be wired up differently to when it worked previously.
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As Dizzie says you need to trace your steps back. In theory you should be ok using a low voltage wire for an amp trigger as it is minimal current but combined with the door chime circuit and radio on too this may have overloaded the fuse.
If the radio feed fuse is ok and you cant find anything else you are going have to trace the wires and see if you've got a burnt out wire.
Normal practice is to take the amp trigger wires from the blue wire/wires on the back of the head unit.
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Normal practice is to take the amp trigger wires from the blue wire/wires on the back of the head unit.
what i was gonna say.. thought i might have been missing a trick..
(normally run it up with the RCAs)
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What head unit are you using as a lot of them allow you to turn the amp trigger on and off through the menu?
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It's the factory 'premium' system...
I'm gonna start fresh tomorrow. I've disconnected the additional wire and still no sound (or door chime) yet.
I'll take the radio out, if for no other reason but to look for the blue wire for a trigger mentioned (I heard it mentioned before as the antenna wire, I just didn't see it.)
If I burned out the wire it'll be a real b!tch to replace. As it was, I had spent 3 1/2 hrs to find that one, splice into it, and run a wire to the hatch.
I attempted to test the wire with a multi-meter to see if it was strong enough to kick on the amp before attaching it. I turned the knob on the meter slowly to the test setting while it was still on the wire, could that have sent enough feedback to blow it?
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If the headunit has stopped working have you tried the fuse behind the headunit?
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ohh and triple check the fuses.. i had one that had gone the other week that looked ok, but didnt buzz out ok with the multimeter.. there was a hairline crack in it.. and I did that while i was fitting the new headunit... i could actually make it work/not work by slightly flexing the fuse.. crazy huh
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I wanted to thank you guys for your help...
So far, it seems the wire I was trying to splice into was the correct trigger wire as verified by the back of the factory radio. Unfortunately no power is going though that wire now. (the fuse on the radio is fine)
I've found the (wire brown w/red) on the radio, near the fusebox, and going into the ignition switch. Each one used to have power (that's why I decided to use it in the first place), nothing now.
I'm gonna recheck for a burned fuse (I broke one of the plastic fusebox hold down clips the last time >:(), but if it's a trigger in the ignition switch, I don't think I'm messing with it. Although, I'm not looking forward to running a different trigger wire into the radio's harness, I'm not changing an ignition switch so I can have door chimes... I'll have to use a different trigger.
Any Ideas?
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Its a good idea to buy a small volt meter. :)
Use the (+) wire from your heater?
I you do, get an in-line fused wire and connect it up to your radio.
Not too sure about mk3 golfs but this is how my mk2 golf is set up.
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the amp trigger wire can be any thickness. mine's so thin it's constantly breaking from being pulled by acident. I really should swap it for some thicker wire.
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yeah its a thin wire.. tuck it away nicely then?
it still sounds from his last post like he's using the wrong thing..
the amp wake up/remote wake up comes direct from the head unit.
i've never heard of the switched live (red) being used for this.
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no neither have i, it usually is just poking out the back of the headunit with a female bullet connector on the end
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alternatively if you have a powered or amplified aerial you will have a remote on goin to that, just find it and splice into that :)
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OK, a little update..
I went upstate to a friend's shop (I ususally try to limit my favor asking to important things but..).
As it turns out (looking at the diagam, the trigger wire goes from the radio to the fusebox (and door chime relay), then to the ignition.
The wire I spliced into is behind the fusebox so I not sure if before or after a fuse (my guess is before), but the entire length of the wire can carry current (not burned out). Next, by grabbing the wires near the plug on the ignition a bit forcefully (you have to, or they won't even budge) WE HAD POWER! It went away when you let go, so unless I jam a screwdriver in there to push the wires while I drive, I'd have to change the ignition's electrical part (only a little burned out)
Now the question is.. perhaps I inadvertantly grounded the wire with the tester and burned out the ignition so if I replace it it'll be fine.. or.. maybe the draw is too great. I'd hate to replace the ignition, just to go and do it again.
According to Mitchell, the steering wheel has to come off and I might even have to drill out the lock (and put either a nut and bolt or rivet to put it back.. I didn't really read past 'take of the steering wheel'). Whatever the draw is, it must be minimal. I would think a fuse wouldn't be necessary. But with all three things (the amp the radio and the door chime) taking a draw can the ignition take it?
Or should I not even chance it. Fix the ignition and hook up the amp trigger from the cig. lighter or something (to be on only when the key is on instead of in). There is no antenna out on this model (maybe its another reason to get a new radio)
So far, you guys have been great.. which way should I go?
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fix your ignition, get a new headunit with a normal amp wake up
i've never ever heard of triggering off of anything other than a headunit, i'd be worried about damaging the amp next
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I think the draw on an amp trigger is about 0.8 amps, but I certainly wouldnt take it from anything other than the head unit. If you dont have this,(and I dont mean to sound rude here,but) the quality of the stereo cannot be of any worth and would probably not be worthwhile amplifying anyway
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Has the radio got RCA pre outs for an amp?
I would find it unusual for a headunit to have these and then not supply a feed for the trigger wire to the amp. At the very least you should have an electric aerial feed which will be ideal for your needs.