GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: DaveP on 01 March 2006, 13:32
-
Hi All,
I'm currently returning to the VW scene after a brief foray into high-power Jap performance, and I find myself at a bit of a quandry.
My initial budget will either buy me a clean late Mk2 GTI or high (90k+) mileage post-96 VR6.
Before discounting the VR6 on mileage alone, what is there to be aware of when buying a 2.8 VR6 unit which has done a reasonable amount of miles?
Having had a Mk3 Golf previously, I am fully aware of the model problems - I am just a little in the dark regarding what to look for in a VR6.
Thanks,
Dave
-
hello :smiley:
welcome back to the VW scene then. Mileage wise my dad has a 96 8 valve GTI and its pn 110,000 miles which i think u could count as high miles, so prob around that mark. My dads needs a bit of work doing to it but is still going strong!
-
There is a very good possibility that a 90+k mile VR6 will soon need the timing chains replaced - due to a tensioner design flaw. ÂÂÂ
Mine has done 96k miles and i'm starting to get some ominous rattles.  The job is quite involved and costs around £600 and as the gearbox has to come off it would be silly not to replace an original clutch at the same time.
Other than the chains there are no major concerns with a high mileage VR6 as long as it has been well maintained and serviced.
The only other thing i can think of is that the rear axle bushes will probably need replacing on any 90K mile Mk3 if not already done.  Most people seem to have paid between £150 and £250 for this.
One more thing, genuine HT leads cost a fortune - £100+ and most owners concur that cheaper non genuine replacements don't last very long at all.  Although people rate magnecor leads at about £75.
Hope this helps :smiley:
-
From my contacts a VW, the chain problem seems to be a bit of myth really, not many kits get sold at all, or ever had done.
Jte, i think you should try changing the upper chain tensioner and guide rail, this was done on mine when i done the headgasket, and NO rattles coming from the chain :smiley:
Obviously a regular oil change is critical for long life for the chains.
-
From my contacts a VW, the chain problem seems to be a bit of myth really, not many kits get sold at all, or ever had done.
Jte, i think you should try changing the upper chain tensioner and guide rail, this was done on mine when i done the headgasket, and NO rattles coming from the chain :smiley:
You're probably right, i'm just a bit of a car pessimist, I like 'peace of mind' too much :rolleyes:.
But I suppose if the upper tensioner and guide rail are replaced before the guide rail breaks up, which seems to be the point at which most people get really scared and the very bad noises start, then it's unlikely the actual chain will be affected enough to need replacing.
How much work is involved in changing the tensioner and guide rail? Can it be done by removing just the cam cover and upper chain cover? and did you just replace the parts like for like, or is it possible to use the new style tensioner?
-
You will need to remove the inlet manifold and the cam cover, then line the cams up to tdc and the flywheel.
Then undo the big tensioner bolt on the rear of the upper chain housing, and remove the housing.
I replaced like for like, for car has done 90k, no noise from the chain area.
-
Well, that sounds straightforward enough. :grin: I assume there's a highly expensive vw tool to lock the cams at tdc, is this necessary to do and if so is an improvised tool sufficient?
I will give this a go as soon as we have a not too chilly weekend. Thanks for all the advice!
And sorry to Davep for hijacking his thread, but at least it softens my scaremongering! :grin: :grin:
-
You don't need the special tool, you can do it by eye, the slots in end of the cams need to be dead horizontal like this :-
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/samsmith2000/stuff/vr2.jpg)
Also remove the gearbox tdc plug, line up the arrow with the notch :-
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/samsmith2000/stuff/vr1.jpg)
Engine TDC is now set.
-
The tensioner bolt is arrowed
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v137/samsmith2000/head1.jpg)
and you will also need to remove the coil pack to remove upper chain housing.