GolfGTIforum.co.uk
General => Shows, events, track days, motorsport => Topic started by: Chris619 on 16 January 2006, 18:49
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I am about to book my first track day and was woundering what are the best brake pads and disc's to use on my MK2 GTi. I've got 256mm Cross Drilled Brake Disks & Pagid Fast Road Pads, would these stand up to a day at the track?
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they're up to it.. but you'd stop a helluva lot quicker with a g60 setup.. might be worth considering if you get hooked on the whole track thing :cool:
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get some braided lines so your brakes dont fade :wink:
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Green stuff pads are good and work well from go
REd stuff are better, but need slightly warming up before they really work
Yellow are the best, but seriously need warming up
280mm discs (G60 setup) is a worthwhile upgrade too!
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Seat ibiza cupra r brembo 4 pots mmmmmmm just got to fit mine sourced them so time to experiment seen it done before otherwise G60 it is!
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I would go with decent Ferodo pads with braided lines and better brake fluid. This will be fine as long as you make sure you give your car a rest! It's not like you will push it on your first few trackdays anyway...
What are the 'cross drilled' discs? You're actually better off having blanks unless the OEM ones are really bad at heat dissipation.
Once you get more experienced i wouldn't faff around with 'better' calipers from the VAG group, they're all crap compared to aftermarket Brembos or APs. You should get to a stage where you will be stamping on your brakes every bend, OEM items just won't cope.
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get some braided lines so your brakes dont fade :wink:
And how do braided brake lines prevent brake fade?
G...
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Stops the rubber hose from bulging when warm, as it has a aluminium braid around it.
upgrading the servo will also help braking as it will exert more force onto the pistons.
Also DO NOT USE SILICON BRAKE FLUID sorry to shout but it is lethal. :)
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Stops the rubber hose from bulging when warm, as it has a aluminium braid around it.
upgrading the servo will also help braking as it will exert more force onto the pistons.
Also DO NOT USE SILICON BRAKE FLUID sorry to shout but it is lethal. :)
The implication was that braided lines alone would prevent brake fade....
The most important thing in preventing brake fade is regularly change your brake fluid, using competition pads certainly makes a difference but only if they are bedded in properly. Braided lines will give a firmer feel to the pedal but standard lines in good condition are fine.
Competition brake fluid is a good idea as it has a higher boiling point, be careful that someone doesnt try and sell you silicon fluid as this was once regarded as the dogs bollocks but is now known to be dangerous as it absorbs air and we all know what air in the brake lines causes.
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another thing is when you've just fitted greenstuff's to a G60 don't go racing things withing minutes of fitting them... they catch fire ;)
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whats the smallest wheel size that the 280s would fit under?
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dunno ive got 280's on the vr6 with stock 15" wheels and they look pretty tight so id guess 15's would be the min with a g60 set up as there 280 discs??
:grin:
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another thing is when you've just fitted greenstuff's to a G60 don't go racing things withing minutes of fitting them... they catch fire ;)
Haha, this nearly happened to me at Bedford recently !
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another thing is when you've just fitted greenstuff's to a G60 don't go racing things withing minutes of fitting them... they catch fire ;)
Haha, this nearly happened to me at Bedford recently !
It nearly happened to me last week! On my track in the back garden.... :lipsrsealed:
I've got VR6 callipers, braided lines, 280mm cross drilled discs and greenstuff pads...the pads are awful i think :sick:
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The pads are fine for road use, nice pedal feel using them...they do get a bit hot and fade easily on track though.
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dunno ive got 280's on the vr6 with stock 15" wheels and they look pretty tight so id guess 15's would be the min with a g60 set up as there 280 discs??
:grin:
I think it depends on the style of wheel - I was looking to upgrade the brake sizes, from 256 to 280, however after having a good look- there is no chance they'll fit under my 15's - although I am running with ATS cups on which don't leave much room under the wheel.
I'm in the process of upgrading the brakes, fluid, lines etc and am getting Mintex 1155's but have a dilemma about the disks. A place close to me is doing a deal on black diamonds, however they're significantly cheaper than some of the Tarox disks I've seen.
I like a bargain as much as the next person, however with size being a problem, and not having the heat disappation advantages of bigger disks and wheels, I really need the best disk / pad combo going. Hence I'm a bit suspicious if a comparable product is significantly cheaper.
Does anyone have any experience of either, Tar-ox or black Diamonds at all - could really use some feedback on these.
Many thanks
Chris :cool:
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you are actually better with solid disks, the cross drilled ones are far more prone to cracking when heat cycled than solid vented disks...
I`m fitting 280mm Solid vented disks and DS2500 pads for my track golf (it has the G60 setup already). Its stripped and will be used as a dedicated track car, driving to and from the track too and I definately wouldnt get cross drilled...
Nige
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lol i can vouch for greent stuff pads catching on fire if you dont bed them in properly ;) lol
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Hi, i'm going for Brembo plain 280mm discs and ferodo ds pads for my first go (Mk2 16v ABF). I will also get some Goodridge hoses, and Motul RBF600 fluid has been recommended on ClubGTI site by some guys. My mate went from 256mm to 280mm on his 16v and he said its much better. As far as wheels go, i believe the oe Sebring wheels will fit if you can find some, i was lucky and managed to find some Compo MO's 15" for a good price. Still need a second set if poss though.
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My track car is a Mk2 GTi 8v. For the first year track racing I've gone for 16v brake setup (calipers, hubs etc) with ATE Power discs and EBC Greenstuff pads. I've also got Braided hoses on the way aswell. I'm just going for dot 5.1 as I doubt very much I'll boil it (used dot 5.1 in the last car I went to track days in, a Porkie 944 Turbo and that was fine on dot 5.1).
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OK chaps, here goes, my collective experience;
Ventilated discs are fine, you should have no problems with these.
Grooved or drilled discs prevent your pads getting 'glazed', they do not assist with cooling.
Grooved discs are often better than drilled, as drilled discs tend to crack (from the holes).
Braided holes do not prevent brake fade.
Braided hoses do improve 'feel' and are safer (due to the robusteness of the braided covering if rubbed by a tyre, etc) than std items, as they do not allow the inner line to bulge, which will give you the feeling of a long or spongy pedel.
Usind a good quality brake fluid with a higher boiling point (such as 5.1 or 6.0) will help prevent brake fade.
Silicon brake fluid is fine, but needs regular 'maintenance'. It absorbs moisture (not air as somebody suggested), so you need to bleed the brakes regularly. You can 'feel' if they need bleeding as the peddle gets longer.
Rear brakes on modern cars do not do much, so stick with std discs and pads.
On my Mk2 16v trackday car I have Brembo 4 pots, std Ibiza vetilated discs, std Ibiza pads, AP 551 brake fluid and Aeroquip braided lines from the master cylinder to each calliper. They are fantastic, and stand up to hard trackday use with no fade, or long peddle issues.
I have raced in series where you can only change the discs, pads and fluid, and although wear rates for the discs and pads are higher than if you can use a big brake set up, using quality vetilated & grooved discs with a mintex or pagid fast road/race pad with a 5.1 or 6.0 rated brake fluid will mean that you should not have fade issues, and you should keep peddle feel.
Regarding 'bedding in' new pads, the best advise I can give is, when fitted use moderatly hard for about 5 miles with constant long stops (don't stand on the brakes, slow from speed with reasonable pressure. The drive 2 miles with very, very light braking, this allows the brakes to cool. Then park the car up and leave it for at least an hour. Following this, if you have changed the fluid as well, you may need to bleed the brakes once more. But, you should find that you can stand on 'em on a trackday with confidence!
Don't go to a trackday with new discs and pads! If you do, do a 3 laps with long hard braking and then a couple with light braking, then leave the car for an hour! Sorry, but you'll thank me in the end....... (Clearly if you are at the 'Ring then this does not apply!)
Anyway, hope this helps.......
Cheers,
Tallchap
P.S. if any of you boys want braided brake lines, braided fuel lines, oil breather systems, oil coolers, silicon hoses.... then ring my pal Matt at Think Auto on 0208 568 1172, and I'm sure he'll do you a deal!
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Just my opinion, I haven't tried these on my golf yet but on my other racing car they win hands down.
They are called carbotech. They maybe expensive as an inital outlay but OMG they are amazing, the panther plus are the best pad I have ever used. You only need the cheapest discs you can find and I guarantee you will be amazed, I have EBC greens on my main road work horse (with twin pots) and my old race car with standard crappy toyota 1986 calipers and the cheapest discs I can find can out brake it by a long way!
http://www.carbotecheurope.com/
I would seriously reccomened them!
As a comparison, I have also tryed pagid fast roads (lasted 50 laps for me) and EBC red stuffs (lasted 15 laps) on the same car, the carbotechs so have have lasted 250+ laps and are barely touched.
give em a go!!