GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: marcogolfo on 05 January 2006, 18:21
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welp been replacing lots of things, dizzy, leads,plugs, coil, wur etc no vac leaks but car doesnt like starting from cold. its a 1987 16v mk2. I reckon its a fuel problem, especially noticed this because i went to amsterdam for a few days and when i got back it tok me like half an hour of turning it over to get it to start. Seemed to half fire and kick into life but then start half firing again. Fuel pump primes but from outside it sounds a bit fizzly almost like an electrical shorting sound. I.e. sounds like its spitting when it primes. Once the car has started and been run it wil start on the button until about four hours later when it starts to struggle again. The longer i leava it, the harder it is to start. Has anyone got any ideas, im contemplating exchanging the accumalator and pump
cheers :embarassed:
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replace the fuel pump relay first, then get underneath & clean up all the electrical connections on the pump. :)
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tried that cheers mate no joy :angry:
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may be the lift pump, or perhaps the main pump is starting to get tired!
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so you don't reckon its the accumalator? Or is that pretty much the same anyway? Cheers mate
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It could be, I've heard it can cause cold start probs. I'm not really a K-Jet man, so all my info is second hand ;)
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no worries thx for your help. looks like im changing the accumalator pump and filter :embarassed:
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welp havnt got round to changing filter and accumalator but the car has got worse. Won't start at all and when she finally fires it sounds like shes running on three. If you put your foot on the throttle it just cuts out. Finally get her started again and she will just chug along for ages with a sort of burbling sound revving to only about 400 and then sort of dropping to 200 back to 400 down to 300 etc. Stuttering all over. When shes finally warmed up slam your foot on the accelerator full on and she does nothing but burble on 3 and then sort of fire and cut out. :sad: Any ideas im really pissed off
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I had a very similar sounding problem. Turned out to be the flap position in the metering head. Get the car to a bosch centre who know how the k-jet system works and get them to check it out. Mine needed the metering head setup correctly and the timing adjusted costing about £120. I belive it can happen as a result of a backfire in the intake manifold which forces the flap downwards. For me it was my lpg system that caused this backfire.
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hmmmm i hope its not that
forgot to mention that the battery light and water light stay illuminated whilst it struggles
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Check the Haynes manual, it tells you how to reset the flap :)
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You still having problems Marco, I would think it's time to do the fuel accumulator, fuel pump, lift pump, Injectors, Fuel lines and relay matey!
I have also heard of a fair few people undoing the fuel return line that goes back to the tank, taking the fuel cap off and blowing the return line with an airline to solve many strange K-jet problems. Seems these get gunked up and stop the flow in the metering head.
Have you had the timing checked and changed ISV and ISV control box behind the dash?
you can pressure test the fuel using a gauge inline with the system, I had a link to all this info but lost it when I killed my PC. :(
I had a similar problem with mine it turned out it needed setting up correctly on a RR went from 93 - 149 BHP but showed no signs it wasn't set up properly apart from start and idle problems. I would deffo get the timing checked as you say it sounded as though it was running on 3, many times they drop out but still run ok as they are German built and mere things like timing don't bother that engine!!
How old is the fuel in the tank if it is more than 6 months old drain it for the missuses car and put in a tank of fresh petrol.
Also have you recently put any GSF temp senders on your block as I and a fair few others have had serious problems with them which were cured by spending more on a VAG part. As one tells your ECU when the engine is cold or hot one tells you on the dash and one controls the WUR you could try changing around the dash one with the other two just be careful the connectors aren't right cracking!!
good luck!
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cheers i've had a very depressing day, changed the leads again and dizzy cap. She fired up and ran ok for a trip down to chavfords. The only thing is the battery light stayed on and occasionally went off when you revved it over 4000 but after that it came back on and stayed on. The battery is new :cry: Was runing ok today but we popped the bonnet and noticed that it was arcing at the dizzy cap. So took the dizzy cap off and put it back on. After that it all went wrong! Fired up but very very lumpy. Put foot down and it didnt rev cleanly at all. played around with the leads some more and nothing. I know that the problem probably has something to do with the fuel but the fact that it was running alright and the battery light staying on is leading me down the electrical side again. The car just wont rev at all. Absolute nightmare to tell you the truth cos i live in the middle of nowehere :(
thanks for everyones help
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defo get a new dizzy cap & rotor arm, and I'd be tempted to get new leads as well. Buy em from:
http://www.vwspares.co.uk
The battery light is probably going to be a problem with the alternator, get a new belt first and while you're there check the alt is keeping the right tension. My top bolt was threaded so the alternator would never stay tensioned.
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sorry forgot to mention this is with new leads and new dizzy cap, the lead quality looked crap from a company called elektrospark. Got a new belt as well thats why i went down to chavfords. Belt seems pretty damn tight. It aint chargin the battery tho from what i can see, alternator is pretty new and battery is a couple of weeks old. If the battery was runninn low would it cause this stutter and poor running when i put my foot down?
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Timing! :)