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Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: mallydgti on 04 January 2006, 17:20
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Car is a 1990 8v GTI Big bumpers power steering central locking etc on a H Plate
Hi all,
Car used to start fine until the first frost kicked in, has recently had starter, battery, alternator, leads, dizzy cap, rotor and plugs. When cold it will kick over and over for the best part of ten minutes and not start. leave it for 5 minutes and it will then start and run fine, let it warm up and it starts everytime on the button and will for the next 12 hours or so, leave it for longer and no chance. car has also had a new ECU airbox and airflow meter and today i replaced the blue temp sensor with a genuine VAG one still the same :sad:.
The MFA and revcounter also worked today for the first time in 3 months, took the car out and all worked, came home stopped it and restarted and surprise surprise not working again :cry:
any ideas would be appreciated.
Cheers Mal
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Check that the 3 earth straps are all present/not corroded.
1. Main strap battery to body to gearbox. Clean contacts with a wire brush or similar
2. Rocker cover to coil mount - main one for the dashboard, if missing or broken can cause dash problems.
3. Bonnet to body (passenger side).Not sure what purpose this one serves, but worth replacing if broken.
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Try putting the car in 1st gear then coming off the clutch. Then turn the key and allow the starter motor to push the car foward a meter or so. Then take out of gear or dip the clutch and try starting again.
I find doing this cleares any fuel flooding in the cylinders and helps starting when flooded. Flooding might not be your problem but its worth a go!
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what about if you turn the key to prime the pump a few times before you try to start it :)
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If you prime the pump a few times it just doesnt go, you can sit and turn the engine over until it starts to impact on the battery, generally will take at least 15 - 20 minutes to start IF it starts, and only then after you've put your foot to the floor and turned it over until it nearly fires up, then wait 5 minutes and turn it over without applying the gas until it starts to fire. I've got to admit this is seriously hacking me off! I've got an MG ZR a Leon Cupra TDI and an old micra on my drive with the Golf, all of which started first turn in -6 temperatures over xmas, the Golf turned over until the battery got low then had to be Jumped off the Leon and after about half an hour of messing around finally started In saying that I tried for 45 minutes last night and could not start it so will probably have to go out later and try again . . . the battery is nrand new and heavy duty by the way, but constant cranking means I have to keep recharging it. I can see a 90 Gti 8v Big bumper with pwr stg, central locking, mint interior, clear lights and 17" BK racing alloys in Tornado Red going on eay at this rate . . . .
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Have you tried replacing the coil ? Maybe she is sparking a bit weak ?
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No not yet, the plan is to replace all the earth leads tomorrow (local auto elec making new ones for me) and see if that resolves it, the reality is that the car was only bought to complete track days in and at the moment it is just constant hassle, I need a car that can be laid up for extended periods and that I just need to start on a regular basis to keep everything sweet, at the moment I am spending more time and money trying to start the damn thing than I am using it for trackdays!
:undecided: :angry:
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OK - all earh leads replaced today, all contact points fully cleaned, absolutely no difference, still takes about 20 minutes of turning over and over then leaving a couple of minutes before it eventually starts, takes less time if I jump it from my diesel as it has a more powerful battery. if you let the car tickover until hot then go for a drive it will cough and splutter occasionally (I appreciate its winter but my car getting flu takes the p*ss) for a couple of minutes then it runs absolutely fine. It will then start on the first turn of the key thereafter as long as you dont leave it for more than 5 hours. My local specialist changed the Airflow meter and ECU as the car was not running right a couple of months ago and they said they could not get the emissions low enough afterwards, I have noticed that the car is chewing fuel and appears to be running rich any suggestions?? (the starting problem was there before the ECU was changed that is why it went in) :undecided: :sad:
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Did they set the idle & CO properly? Unfortunatly it has to be done in a very specific way on a MK2 digifant :)
1. Get the engine up to temp, at least 80 degrees on the MFA oil temp display
2. Turn the engine off and remove & plug the intake side of the breather pipe between the rocker cover & air intake
3. Hold the MFA button in and turn the ignition on, off and on again, then start the car. This puts the MFA into a 'secret' mode. Put the MFA switch to setting 2 and press the button till you get the digital rev counter, position 2 I think :)
4. Unplug the blue temp sender and rev the engine cleanly over 3k rpm 3 times, letting it return to idle between each rev.
5. Check the rev display, adjust the idle with the idle screw on the throttle body to about 850-900 rpm. Clockwise to decrease, anticlockwise to increase
6. If you have a CO meter, block off one of the talipipes (i use a load of duck tape) and shove the probe up the pipe. Follow the manufacturers instructions, and set the CO to about 1.8ish using the allen screw on the MAF, clockwise to increase, anticlockwise to decrease. NOTE: You must take the reading when the rad fan ISN'T running, once it cuts in it'll throw out the reading a little!
If you don't have a CO meter, turn the screw in until the engine starts to sound rough then back it out gradually till the idle sounds smooth & even. Check the aerial or bonnet stay for vibration, you want it smooth as possible. This will get you close, then take it to a garage to get it set properly :)
7. Reset the idle to 850-900 rpm if it has changed, and adjust the CO accordingly, repeat till you get 1.8 at 850-900 rpm :)
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:embarassed: They tried to set the car up properly, and it is a long established vw specialist, I am assuming the method used was correct, but they advised that they could not get it within the parameters required for a MOT.
I would set it myself using the method described however given that both my MFA and rev counter are inoperable that would be slightly difficult. I have discovered if you go out and try the car a couple of times then leave it for 10 or 15 minutes, then try agtain without touching the accelerator the car will fire, run erratic for a minute or so then it is fine, which would kind of indicate to me that it is instantly flooding.
Nightmare!! :wink: Cheers for the advice though.
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It sounds to me like the AFM they used is up the swanny, or something else isn't right. Perhaps the ISV is playing up or the throttle body needs to be reset!
One thing you could try, once the engine is up to termperature disconnect the blue temp sender and check the idle. It should stay roughly the same, on mine it used to shoot up to 1500 rpm because the idle switch was too far in and was holding the throttle open. Its worth checking the idle switch clicks when the throttle is closed, and checking the plug with a multimeter to make sure it stops passing current when the throttle is closed.
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:smug: Slight change - have now discovered that if I try to start the car once - then leave it for 5 - 10 minutes and try again it will start straight away, any thoughts????
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i used to get that. turned out to be my starter motor in the end. weird one
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I had a similar problem which turned out to be the blue temp sender. The first time you try to start the car no matter how long you leave it turning overe it wont start. If you stop & prime the pump a second time it would fire on the button!
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sounds like you need a new diapragm in the fuel pump. its a common fault in all fuel pumps as far as im aware. do you park it on a gradient nose high? if so park it nose down and try then. the diagram lets the fuel return it its nakered. so putting facing downhill will keep the fuel in the system. if my solution works then you know what to replace.