GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: pinkcrush on 01 January 2006, 23:59
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hi all 1st of many posts i hope :)
i have a 1989 mk 2 auto golf, but
it idles at high rev's, it losses all power while driving, untill its warm,
now i know this is a timing problem, but my brother the fixer ;), has never worked on golfs, and were haveing mega problem's finding and cureing the timing, he has altered it but its doesnt seam to do anything.
i have noticed that if i brake hard, it has the same sort of problems, no power, but then it sorta kicks in.
iam just asking if anyones has had the same sorta problem's and how they cured it ? or if any one has any other idears ?
i dont fancy takeing it to a garage and getting ripped off so any help would be gratefull :)
many thanks
ann
ps. if i can add to help find a cure please say
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Just the usual culprits with bad cold running - coolant temp sensor and idle stabilisation valve. The first is a replace job, the second remove and clean. Details of these can be found all over the forum. Use the search bar at the top.
The only part of the engine directly linked to the brakes is the Vacuum Booster i could only guess at checking this for leaks.
Not sure how to do the timing exactly but i believe rather than done at tickover it needs to be done between 2000 and 2500 revs. Or maybe thats just on the digifant??!? Clutching at straws with that one but worth a try!
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Doesnt sound like timing is out if it drives fine when warm.
Im assuming its a lesser model like a GL or Driver then if its Automatic?
If its Carbed then check the Automatic Choke is working properly? Pierburg Carbs are renowned for playing up!
Let us know what Engine it is and we may be able to help more?! :wink: :smiley:
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thanks tt5th, i will look into sensor and valve things, and pass that onto the mechanic :)
with the vacuum booster would it be visable, the leaks if it is ?
si, i wouldn't say lesser model but yes its a 16 driver, but its still my babe ;)
it is carbed and has a new carb to see if that would help, it didn't :(
and the timing is deffo out to the point the engine can still be running even though iam outside looking the doors :(
the fixer :) did think it was something to do with the choke, but as he doesn't know vw, its making it hard,
the car has alot of problems ie leaking sunroof, engine see above :(, no electric windows (well only has 1 motor), poss alternator probs (all lights flicker), and a lack of power steering :(, but the bodywork is fine ;), all i want to do is get her working properly so any help is wonderfull :)
many thanks
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if your timming is only slightly out, then it can be adjusted at the distributor cap, by undoing the 13mm bolt that holds it in place and twisting it, u can get away with doing it off feel and hearing but its best to take it to a garage which will probably charge you 20quid for something like that, as they have special timming strobes. if the problem carries on it could be a number of things like spark plugs etc.
But i'd get the timming done at a garage 1st and then go from there
anyway welcome to the site and put a post in the new member section
Tom :smiley:
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yeah have tryed that, even had a new distributor cap, but that didn't help, the timing doesn't change even from top to bottom, it still runs too fast :(
i have thought about the garage option, but the way it sounds, and runs i can see it will run into alot of dosh :(
thanks for the welcome :)
0h its had new spark plugs, new leads and cap :)
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seems like you've covered most things, was the new carb a new one, or a second hand one? As i'd have thought it would have been the autochoke, also check all the air hoses around the carb are all connected and also check he wirring to the carb is ok, as you look at it its at the back left.
you may have a dodgy earth on comething??
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Evening pink (real name unknown  :tongue: )
More of a gti engine bloke myself but anyhow, try adjusting the idle screw as it sounds like it is over fueling concerning taking a while to shut off, also the ignition switch might be up the swan, if you wiggle the key in the barrel when starting it see if that helps. Get some choke cleaner and give it a good clean. Are you sure the fuel pump is working properly? it could be bunged up with crap after 15 odd years of use. TBH it sounds more like an earthing problem than a timing problem, check all the wires and give them a good clean with a wire brush and when they are re-attatched put a dollop of grease on them.
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if all else fails get a weber carb, probably the best investment for your car u will buy, will give u better performance use about the same petrol, and be so much more reliable, they usually go for around 60-80 for a second hand one
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Weber-Carburettor-for-VW-Golf-MK2-1600-1800_W0QQitemZ4600618743QQcategoryZ9889QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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:grin:
well iam gonna be busy tommorrow checking all these things :)
right the carb was second had, but on the old one the chokes housing was cracked, but although it was a pain to start, i didn't have all this cutting out before ;(
but il look at everything you have all said tommorrow, guided by haynes :) and if anything is lose or leaking il get back to you :)
the slick effect, have tyed the idle screw (i think) il try wiggleing the key (hey if it helps, il try anything).
how could i tell if the fuel pump is ok ?
ok so now ive got to wiggle, check and clean most of the engine :)
seller, il look at the weber carb thing too :)
but many thanks
ann
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never too busy for a lady
thats me and slick :wink:
lol :laugh: good luck tommoro
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ROFL sellers you monkey
Right the ignition barrel you will need to push it right into the barrel and then wiggle it around till something happens, then see if it keeps happening (i.e. will only fire when its one certain place)
Fuel pump take the spark plugs out,dry them completely and then put them back in, turn the engine over and then switch it all off and remove the plugs again, they should be stinking of fuel and wet aswell.
Could also be a iffy ignition coil. I might have one if it is.
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ok iam writeing all this down :)
ok the barrel thing, its a pain to start but i dont see that the barrel would cos the engine to nearly die out, or could it ?
the smell of petrol is realy bad, when 1st started or when its turned off, but i was told that was beacuse of the excess petrol sitting in the cam, but i thought i would mention it :)
ignition coil, to do with the barrel or somewhere else ?
sellers, many thanks :) i might need it
many thanks
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dying out sounds more like the choke than anything else.
The barrel relates to the ignition coil, its just a thought as it tells the coil to fire via the ECU. Petrol pump sounds ok then.
Ignition coil is easy to trace its what the centre lead on your dizzy links too.
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smell of petrol could well mean the choke is gone, i know it sounds simple but whats your accelerator cable like?? might be snagging in places and then freeing??
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no the accelerator cable has been checked :)
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Hi ann.
Loosing power untill it's warm could be a fault on the warm air system, this is the pipework from the exhaust manifold to the air filter. Make sure the pipe is intack and the vacuum opperated flap in the air filter housing is working. You can check the flap with the engine running by disconnecting and reconnecting the small vacuum hose and the flap should opperate, vacuum on and the flap shuts of the cold air and lets hot air from the exhaust into the air filter to stop the carb from icing.
Hope this helps.
Steve.
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hi, sorry don't know anything about your problem, i'd only be guessing!! just thought i'd be pedantic....
Evening pink (real name unknown :tongue: )
many thanks
ann
open your eyes slick!! :P
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:laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :embarassed:
got the number to that laser eye surgery place mate??? :embarassed: :wink:
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mk1 thanks il add that to my list to check :)
gti-schmo and The Slick Effect... :)  :grin:
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When i said 'Lesser Model' i wasnt being rude!!!! :embarassed: just meant lesser than GTI!
Mines a 1.6 Driver aswell... :smiley:
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si its cool, :rolleyes: just i didn't know if i would get help with a lesser pain in the rear car :)
right, wiggling the car didn't really help, but holding it slightly up when turning it off did seam too, it didn't run on at all :)
but wasn't hot so il keep trying it :)
few questions
is the idle stabilisation valve the idle regulating valve or 2 diffrent things ?
i can find the regulating valve in the book but...
would it make any diffrence if it was a german built golf ?
vacuum booster doesn't seam to be leaking :)
all pipes and wires checked, and all look ok, but iam going to get my brother to look at all you have said, because to be honest its abit to much for me to do :(
what i would like to know, is i have the old carb, it didn't cut out when this was on :) but its got slightly wet and is in bits, but i can see who it goes together, would it be ok to rebuild it, because its got wet ?
can i clean it or anything ?
many thanks
ann
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i knew i forgot to mention something
it sounds like a tank, and rattles like a tank on 1st cold start up, i don't move the car un till it more normal tho :), well as normal as it gets :)
any thoughts on re building the old cam tho ?
many thanks
ann
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Id say most likly cause is the coolant channel o'ring in the inlet manifold thats gone and is preventing coolant flow round the carb, which is a shame since you've already had the carb off once :grin:
Check my 2e2 FAQ:
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=18871.0
Also have a close look at all the vacuum pipes for splits :)
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thanks
il add that to my list ;)
and thanks for the link, explains alittle better then hayne :)
many thanks
ann
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:angry:
i could scream or die :embarassed:
its doing something else now
ok its warmed up, idle still high, but sorta got used to it
but now
i stopped at lights, went to pull away and nothing, engine threating to cut out, high idle gone, well bearly idleing, and petrol fumes, i mean the whole car reaked of petrol.
ok so after dieing of shame as i blocked the road, i turned it off, as this helped before, but not this time, went through all the gears, and there was no differences in idle speed, normally it is mega mega fast in park, but they where all the same.
then it just sorta sorts it self out and runs fine fast idle comes back.
its doing my bloody head in
ok bit of a rant but every one breaks down at some point in the driving life, so why the hell do people abuse you if you do :angry:, and even worse why the hell throw in sexist comments, day to day i could whoop there arses :cool:
ok rant over :wink:
but is this still because of the o'ring ?
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Calm down calm down!! :grin:
Mines exactly the same. I know what your going through, ive been very close to finding a layby and torching the fecking thing a few times!! :evil:
Could be o-ring, or Auto-choke.
Out of interest, what does your temp gauge read when driving?
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Yup it sounds like an o'ring problem, the cack performance & stinking of petrol is probably due to the autochoke still being on when the engine gets warm, mine used to do the same :)
Could also be a vacuum leak making the problem worse, I had fun one day when the vacuum pipe to the pull down unit disconnected itself, it would stall whenever I dipped the clutch to change gear then jump start itself when I lifted the pedal again :grin:
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iam perfectly calm now :wink:
ok temp never gets past half way, ok i don't go any where far in it, but in traffic it doesn't run too hot. but today half between cold and halfway.
and si i have had that thought more then once :cry:
right so if i replaced
autochoke (can this be replaced solo or whole new carb)
o'ring
vacuum
it will be a normal car again ?
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Change o-ring first. You see, the Autochoke is controlled by water temp, if the o-ring has perrished then water in the coolant channel may not pass easily, so the Autochoke thinks the water is cold so wont turn choke off. (so car will use more fuel, smell of fuel, and overfuel).
You see?! :wink:
check this out!...
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=18871.0
Thank rubjonny for this!
Cheers chap! :smiley:
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yeah i know, rubjonny has told me already :smiley:
but getting some one to do the poxy o'ring is proveing hard :cry:
but i wanted to check, so back to nagging :wink:
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Im from Bristol, your from Essex. it would never work!! :laugh:
I expect there is someone willing to help you from your area on here? :wink:
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:laugh:
il use my charm's, and get it sorted
if not
the matches are waiting :wink:
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:laugh:
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Aye the autochoke will probably work perfect once coolant is flowing through it properly again, but there is a little electric heater inside it that can fail, the FAQ tells you how to test it without taking the unit off, as well as the temp sender that controls it :)