GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk8 => Topic started by: mossy69 on 24 January 2026, 10:14
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morning everyone I'm still having issues with waring pings had all the updates done vw I've heard that the battery must be at least 70% condition wise just wondering which battery is the best to go for and any good deals out there I've also read that the battery needs to be coded in thanks
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Bosch or varta are usually the pick of the brands. I could be wrong but I believe the coding is only necessary if the battery has different parameters to the one you have now (capacity, type etc).
Easiest swap is to look at what you have now and replace it like for like.
Your car is five years old, not unexpected to need a new battery by now.
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thanks Fred I was woundering if anyone else had just changed like for like and had no issues
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Bosch or varta are usually the pick of the brands. I could be wrong but I believe the coding is only necessary if the battery has different parameters to the one you have now (capacity, type etc).
Easiest swap is to look at what you have now and replace it like for like.
Your car is five years old, not unexpected to need a new battery by now.
This is not correct. You should always code a new battery! They way the battery is charged changes as it gets old. When you put a new battery, you should code it in order for the car to know that has a new battery and restart the "charging method".
This sholud be done in order to maximize the battery life. Of course that you can replace a battery without coding and it will work. The car "sees" 12 V, it works.
I don't understand why Bosch batteries are one of the firsts to be mentioned because I never saw a car with a genuine battery made by Bosch. I'm not saying that Bosch batteries are rubbish, but at least for manufacturers they are not a choice.
Varta, Exide, Moll, Fiamm, Banner. This five brands are OE suppliers. If the genuine is too much I would choose one of these.
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Bosch and Varta are exactly the same battery , and neither would be my first choice. YUASA batteries are probably the best available currently. Exide are, as said, also very good, particularly their premium offering.
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Bosch or varta are usually the pick of the brands. I could be wrong but I believe the coding is only necessary if the battery has different parameters to the one you have now (capacity, type etc).
Easiest swap is to look at what you have now and replace it like for like.
Your car is five years old, not unexpected to need a new battery by now.
https://www.yuasa.com/uk/info-hub/start-stop-battery-replacement
(https://i.postimg.cc/bNqFYX0d/IMG-5896.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/0rHCZBBq)
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OK I'm wrong.
In that case pay halfords a fiver for fitting it :grin:
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Unfortunately to fit these types of battery and do the BMS coding is £50 at Halfords, just checked as thought "that's a good idea"... :smiley:
OK I'm wrong.
In that case pay halfords a fiver for fitting it :grin:
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hmmm thats quite expensive.
I guess its still cheaper than buying something like obd11 (if you have no other reason to need it)
Unless someone who's got one is prepared to help you out.
Personally I'd just get a garage/halfords to do it... just suck it up.
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Has anyone used one of those plug-in diagnostic tools that has a limited number of fixed service functions?
The ones for around £40-50 allow you to put the EPB into the service setting, reset service lights and some have the function to register new batteries.
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Has anyone used one of those plug-in diagnostic tools that has a limited number of fixed service functions?
The ones for around £40-50 allow you to put the EPB into the service setting, reset service lights and some have the function to register new batteries.
Since most of the MK8 modules are SFD locked I doubt that you can use those tools, at least without paying for a token which is not cheap.
I would look into two options: VCDS or OBD11.
VCDS doesn't have SFD support for now but is planned. The community and documentation are very good. OBD11 is cheaper, as a business model around subscriptions for certain functions and supports SFD.
If you like to work on your car and you say that some workshops charge fifty pounds to code the battery you will hit break even very quickly.
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Bosch batteries are made by Varta - same spec / quality but just different branding
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morning everyone I'm still having issues with waring pings had all the updates done vw I've heard that the battery must be at least 70% condition wise just wondering which battery is the best to go for and any good deals out there I've also read that the battery needs to be coded in thanks
How did you get on with the battery issue? Mines starting playing up too, got bongs with travel assist warnings when I first drive that clear after a little while, I’m on original battery for a car that’s just over four years old.
I’m thinking about using my CTek charger to do a condition process on it first and see if it’s sorts things out. I’m very dubious how to do this on such a new / modern car with tech like they have. Also aware batteries need coding to the vehicle (such a pain!).
Can I run a recon or charge process with the battery still connected to the car? (I think probably yes, but need to connect the black to the body not the negative terminal).
If I replace like for like battery, does it still need coding? (I think possibly yes, but could get away with not doing that).
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Chargers like the ones from Ctek are made to charge the battery with it connected to the car. Those who have sports cars who leave the garage once in a while have a charger allways connected to the car.
Yes, even if you replace the battery for one with the same characteristics you need to code it.
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Bosch batteries are made by Varta - just different branding.
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hi there regarding the battery issue had the car to vw told me the battery was fine and it needed and new steering wheel well there's a surprise all good so far by the way that's the 4 th new wheel
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I recently did a full standard charge (not recond) using a CTEK MXS5.0 charger, I checked the battery stats with a multi meter after and it was holding 12.7v with ignition off, 12.0v with ignition on, 10.7v during engine cranking and 14.4v whilst idling (all seems normal).
Since charging the battery, I haven’t seen any travel assist warnings or 12v battery circuit errors. I’m monitoring things, but hopefully all remains as normal!