GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk6 => Topic started by: Norwichdaz on 22 November 2025, 23:13
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Couple of weeks ago turned the car on and was running rough, and made a spluttering sound like the vid link I have put up.
All ran fine then yesterday it ran even rougher, sat there q
10-15 mins till warmed up and then was fine for the rest of the day, but still doing the spluttering /blowing noise when came off the pedal?
Sounds like a blow in the exhaust but had it checked and apparently seemed ok.
https://youtube.com/shorts/BnM40Huf7Gk?si=FVD3ycFhEZBSvumz
(https://i.postimg.cc/fRPDRV8t/20251121-182823.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/jDyG8S0t)
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I have added the YouTube link of what the sound was like when I rev it.
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I would start with the common issues first.
Check for air/vac leaks and the first place I would be looking is at the PCV valve.
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Ok mate will do, thought the pcv was more high pitch sound? I had someone mention maybe the turbo? And all videos I've seen about knackered turbos are all winey noises etc this sounds like a blow?
Haven't had it long tbf and has been serviced well but dont think the spark plugs/coils been done in last 2 years possibly.
But that doesn't quite explain the vac/air leak that can hear.
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Ok mate will do, thought the pcv was more high pitch sound? I had someone mention maybe the turbo? And all videos I've seen about knackered turbos are all winey noises etc this sounds like a blow?
Haven't had it long tbf and has been serviced well but dont think the spark plugs/coils been done in last 2 years possibly.
But that doesn't quite explain the vac/air leak that can hear.
You’ve got a mix of rich-running (P0172), EVAP purge flow issues (P0441), multiple misfires (P0303/P0304), and an intake air system leak (P2279). All of those together match your symptoms almost perfectly.
On these engines a failed PCV can cause a blowing / hissing noise, rough idle, unstable fuel trims, and misfires exactly what you’re describing.
A failing turbo usually gives whine/siren noises and oil consumption/smoke. Your codes don’t point to boost control problems, over/underboost, or turbo vane issues so I’d put the turbo low on the list.
An intake/vacuum leak will cause the ECU to dump more fuel to compensate, which triggers rich codes and misfires.
The “blowing” sound you hear on throttle lift could absolutely be a leak opening/closing under vacuum.
Plugs and coils could contribute, but they don’t explain the intake leak or purge flow fault.
So they might need doing, but they’re probably not the root cause.
If this were my car, the order I’d check would be:
1: PCV valve and its hoses (very common failure point, and your symptoms match).
2: Intake tract for leaks especially:
- PCV hose
- Intake manifold gasket
- Brake booster hose
- EVAP purge valve line
3: EVAP purge valve (P0441)
4: Then do Sparks and coils after the leak is sorted if they are needed.
Sort the air leak and PCV first those two alone can cause 90% of what you're experiencing.
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Thanks again for the reply, I really hope your correct lol.. as I would obviously much prefer that!
As i say going into a garage Wednesday fingers crossed and will let you know 🙏😆
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Thanks again for the reply, I really hope your correct lol.. as I would obviously much prefer that!
As i say going into a garage Wednesday fingers crossed and will let you know 🙏😆
Do post what they find im keen to find out now :)
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Will do 🙂
Its not a vw specialist garage but hopefully a "normal" garage may be able to find where this leak is aswell , I told them to put some new spark plugs in, in any case as think been a little while.
Its that blowing noise which is annoying me, even tho I know they are meant to be slightly raspy but its more a blow sound and obvs the scans say the same (vacuum/air leak)
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Haven't picked it up yet, (tomorrow) but they have just rung and he said the purge valve was fine, didn't mention the pcv which I might actually message them now to mention that again. :laugh:
Said exhaust was fine couldn't see any leaks or loose pipes, he said the cylinder 2 spark plugs was quite oily compared to the rest, coils seem ok too, and said hes taken it out for a drive (and a thrash) lol.. and the codes seem ok but im not sure if that splutter when release the accelerator is still there or not yet till get it tomorrow, I would have thought it was as surely plugs wouldn't make it sound like an air leak?? Lol
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Oh and said slight coolant leak and can't remember on the phone which pump he said it was, deffo not water pump tho.
He said to keep an eye on it.
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I just rang him and said to replace the pcv valve aswell he said it only had a little suction tbf so for that and piece of mind getting a new one.
So that will be new plugs, new pcv and I said to replace all coil packs too.
He did mention with how that cylinder 2 was dirty he mentioned poss valve may need cleaning (walnut)
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Yeah they are known for this, its because they are direct injection.
A walnut blast is the only fix.
One other thing I forgot to mention is the Diverter Valve (Also known as dump valve). I remember that certain revisions were known to fail I cannot remember for the life of me which part number is the latest ones. But they are relitively cheap so might be worth having that replaced too, MAKE SURE you only use OE parts unless its forge.
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Funny u should say that I've literally just been looking at them! Aha and said they can go too , (another part with a diaphragm)
Yeh seen not costly tbf but as I wouldnt be doing it says its an intake mani off to get to it etc. :undecided:
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Funny u should say that I've literally just been looking at them! Aha and said they can go too , (another part with a diaphragm)
Yeh seen not costly tbf but as I wouldnt be doing it says its an intake mani off to get to it etc. :undecided:
The Diverter Valve you should be able to do yourself, the Walnut blasting, I would find a repitable place to do that for you.
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Oh really? Says for taking off the intake mani etc is more an advanced diyer apparently lol
How much roughly for a walnut blast?🙂
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Have a watch of this, the DV is located under the car on the side of the block, you will need to jack the car up and remove your arch liner and under tray to access it.
Held in by 3 bolts and 1 eletronic clip to remove.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BaaG3fCod3Y
I beleive this is the one you would need revision D but double check before buying.
https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-brand/vag/06h-145-710d/
As for a price of Walnut blasting, it will vary based on your location and who you use. I'd expect at least £500ish to have it all done properly.
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Ah ok thank u... nice chunk of change then, after a few hundred when pick car up today, mot in January too so will see how that goes too lol..
Yeh do doesnt seem toooo bad tbh...I see some people put a forge on, then lots saying to put original/oem dv...
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Picking it up tomorrow now as bit late and city traffic is a joke lol..
He did say on the phone tho that replacing the pcv today thats there's a hell of a lot more suction on oil cap etc when try take it off..so thats a plus and he says the misfires have gone.
As I said tho not sure if the blow/leak noise when release pedal has gone or not yet tho.
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Sounds like I was right about the PCV failing then.
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Yes bud, ill see if the blow sound is still there on decel id imagine it is tbf...then maybe look into DV..
If did do that oem for same or a different dv? I mean its not like it tissssh when changes gear atm, dsg
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Stick with OEM unless you plan you go Stage 2 then I would recommend Forge only.
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Ok, just using it almost as a daily tbf so won't be staging it and done 155k tbf...
Well, was about to come and say all running well since had car back this morning, and before had the pcv,plugs and coil it looked more like it was minus 10 outside with the exhaust/steam out the exhaust but now there's none of that and a tiny bit from the exhaust that u can see so thought, nice sorted.
But the "blowing noise is still there on decel" and as it was at idle nothing wrong in the revs , nice and settled, but u get a little putt, few seconds later putt...
And the ecl light flashed up 🙄🙄...
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It never rains does it - You might have a leak somewhere between the turbo and exshuast.
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Yeh i know :shocked:
Found some stuff about wastegate failure? And found this video ( u can hear the sound at the start)
Which does sound quite similar to my original video tbh.
The clip he talks about tho, looks like fits onto an external one I thought mk 6 turbos have them internally so surely the clip wouldnt then work.
https://youtu.be/211EPtuQ158?si=GfI3JOIqNHfg13ra
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its possible, personally if I was you, as long as you are not;
- Losing oil
- Losing coolant
- Blowing lots of smoke
- Losing boost
- Have horrible sounds from the engine
I would enjoy your car over the Christmas period then get it booked in the new year to a specailist.
Where abouts are you located?
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Earlier also I have Engine light on, good old Google said its possible after the 3 new things I've had yesterday aslong as goes away after a couple of days?
Like I say it drives fine (not that I've booted it) and also to be cautious with the light on now.
Coolant seems ok atm .
Is it possible to replace the actuator/wastegate if its/thats this rattle and the sound on that clip?
Or is it fully enclosed and you cant open the turbo up to change that part anyways?
Im in Norwich fella
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Yeah you could be right to be honest - Only real way to tell is get until the car and see if there is play.
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Yeh just depends if its.fully sealed unit, as seen on some obviously a little easier if its outside the turbo...looking online for a turbo for it looks pretty sealed i think :undecided: :nerd:
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Just for now etc in just ordered a wastegate clip see if that helps lol
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Yeah, good shout.
You clearly had other issues with the PCV as well so just as well you got that sorted.
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Yeh reckon so and deffo more suction trying to take oil cap off now.
Yeh the clip i know isn't perfect etc but the more I even type into YouTube even wastegate rattle in general they all.sound the same and like mine and u see some do the clip, some new turboand some new wastegate replacement.
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Had this on the scan today as to see why engine light on, weirdly, had these codes when had new plugs,coils etc last week lol..
New purge a month ago...
Trying to eliminate things,
Still not sure where this air leak is so might do a smoke test..
And with the 2 different banks, iv seen possible 02 sensor failures and/or maf too or at least try cleaning it.
(https://i.postimg.cc/SNxrrFKj/Screenshot-20251201-160350-M365-Copilot.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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So all of them codes are linking to the ECU or the Lamber not getting the readings its expecting.
I had a similar issue on one of my R32's TWICE :grin:
First time is was the brake servo hose near the back end of the engine that had a split, the second time it was a faulty MAF sensor.
Thing is with VWs you can have something as small as a split in a hose which then causes multiple sensors to go out of wack.
Clear the codes off, it might be "pre PCV" and didnt have the codes cleared down.
If the codes come back that I would get looking into the entire system, start with the cheapest things first.
Check your Diverter Valve part number, if it doesn't end in "D" then you will have the Diapham model which is prone to splitting, the "D" version is the Piston version.
But here is a break down of the codes which should help you check things.
P0172 – System Too Rich (Bank 1)
The ECU detects the air–fuel mixture is richer than expected.
Common causes:
- Faulty or dirty MAF sensor
- Leaking fuel injectors (on Mk6 GTI this is very common)
- High fuel pressure (faulty fuel pressure regulator or HPFP issues)
- Evaporative emissions purge valve stuck open
- PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve failure
- O2 sensor issues (usually front sensor)
P0441 – EVAP Incorrect Purge Flow
The EVAP system isn’t controlling vapor purge correctly.
Common causes:
- Faulty N80 purge valve (very common VW issue)
- EVAP leaks or stuck purge solenoid
- Blocked EVAP lines or charcoal canister fault
- Wiring fault to purge valve
P0303 – Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
Misfire specifically on cylinder 3.
Common causes:
- Bad coil pack on cylinder 3
- Faulty spark plug
- Failing fuel injector (very common on Mk6 GTI)
- Low compression (carbon buildup on valves, worn rings, etc.)
- Vacuum/PCV leak affecting a single cylinder
If I had to take a guess, because you have already replaced the PCV, Sparks and Coils, its most likely going to be a faulty purge valve (N80) This is the single most common cause that can realistically trigger all three of your codes at the same time.
- It directly sets P0441 when it sticks open.
- When stuck open, it feeds unmetered fuel vapors at idle → rich condition → P0172
- That sudden enrichment commonly causes misfires, especially on one cylinder that happens to be most affected → P0303
On Mk6 GTIs the N80 is a very high failure-rate part. Cheap, easy to test, and easy to replace.
Simple way to test and replace the N80 purge valve, On the right side of the engine bay, attached to a hose coming from the charcoal canister. Looks like a small black plastic solenoid with an electrical plug. If you follow the hose coming off the intake tube (near the airbox), you’ll see it.
Remove the N80 valve from the hoses (very easy just hose clamps). Try blowing into one end of the valve with the valve unplugged (no power), it should NOT let air through.
If you can blow air through it with no power → it’s stuck open → BAD valve. Buy a new one and replace it, the part number should be written onit somewhere. Should be under £50, just order it via your local VW or TPS (Don't use a 3rd party or used part)
You can also do a shake test, Not definitive alone, but helpful. Shake the valve about whiles its in your hand.
- Normal: It should click/ratttle lightly
- Bad: No sound, or sticky feel
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Thanks for all that :smiley: 👌
The pic is the purge valve i had fitted last month but..... the connector was too small i think for the connection part so the mechanic where I work cut the wires crimped them so that it would still fit this purge... and said was clicking and working fine , and the garage who did the work last week said they checked it too and said was working fine tbf..
U say lamba, isn't that basically one or both of the o2 sensors? Been looking online alot lately haha..
Not checked DV but I wouldnt have thought it would be the new style.
The light is off after clearing it today , so will see if/when comes back but as I said to the garage its running fine.
They said they took it out for a spirited drive too and said had plenty of poke lol so maybe turbo is ok, that noise is just this wastegate issue ...
(https://i.postimg.cc/hG36Kx1b/Screenshot-20251201-200152-e-Bay.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/3ymnBk6d)
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Ahh ok, that’s useful info.
If the purge valve you fitted needed the wiring cut and re-crimped, then just keep in mind there’s a small chance it could still be part of the problem. The valve itself might click, but a poor connection or slightly different spec can make the ECU behave strangely with EVAP/trim logic. Not saying it’s definitely the cause, just something to keep in the back of your mind if the codes come back.
On the lambda/O2 front yes, lambda sensor is another name for the O2 sensor. The trims you were getting earlier can be caused by a sensor reporting what it’s seeing (i.e., rich mixture) rather than the sensor failing. They usually get blamed, but they’re often just the messenger.
The DV is definitely worth a quick check. The original diaphragm style (pre-revision-D) can split without giving you huge performance loss sometimes just a soft “blow” noise on lift-off. The car can still feel “pokey” but the trims go out of whack because of the metered air escaping.
As for the turbo itself, yeah, wastegate rattle wouldn’t cause misfires or rich trims, so the garage saying it still pulls well makes sense. The wastegate clip fix is really only for the rattle, not running issues.
Main thing now is just to see if the light comes back. If it does, I’d still 100% go ahead with the smoke test, because even a tiny leak can cause exactly the symptoms you had. Given the PCV had failed, it’s very common for another hose or joint to be leaking somewhere in the system.
Keep us posted you’re getting there! :cool:
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Awesome ! Haha thank-you,
Yes deffo think getting there fingers crossed haha :shocked:
Yes guess cant hurt on the dv front...
So you mean the o2 could be ok but just a faulty sensor possibly?
I keep seeing a lot about mafs.... I was going to take it out and clean it (with the correct spray)
But maybe il do that if starts playing up again incase it it made it play up again? Lol..
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Yeah mate you’re definitely close now :grin: fingers crossed the light stays off for a bit so you can enjoy it!
On the O2 side of things exactly, the sensor itself might be fine. A lot of the time the O2/lambda just reports what it’s seeing, so if the engine was running rich because of the PCV issue or a small air leak, the sensor will throw codes even though it’s not actually faulty. So I wouldn’t jump straight to replacing them unless the codes specifically point to them.
DV is absolutely worth your time. If it’s the older diaphragm style, even a tiny split can cause the noise you’re describing without killing the power. Car can still feel quick, but trims go weird.
As for the MAF yeah, they can cause rich/lean issues and weird trims, but they don’t usually cause single-cylinder misfires like you had with P0303. A dirty or failing MAF normally gives:
- Hesitation
- Poor throttle response
- Weird idle
- Odd fuel trims
Sometimes no codes at all
If you do clean it, just make sure you ONLY use proper MAF cleaner and don’t touch the sensor wire. But personally, I’d only bother if the issues return. Right now the PCV replacement alone would have changed airflow readings a bit, so the trims need a bit of time to settle anyway.
For now, keep an eye on it DV check + smoke test if anything comes back is still the best plan.
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Nice one thx,
Yeh will deffo do that 🙂🙂
Mot early Jan so maybe save spending atm incase need some for that haha
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Nice one thx,
Yeh will deffo do that 🙂🙂
Mot early Jan so maybe save spending atm incase need some for that haha
I learnt the hard way with my R32's spent more money then I care to remind myself of :D
That's why when I saw my Edition 35 in VW, I had to buy it from them so I dont have all these horrible bills.
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Lol im a poor greenkeeper so we shall see !! Haha
Is ed35 a newer version I guess? Lol
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Lol im a poor greenkeeper so we shall see !! Haha
Is ed35 a newer version I guess? Lol
It's more reliable, said to be VWs last reliable engine :D
its got the R engine from the Golf MK6 R - No chain, belt driven and KO4 Turbo with more power.
Good video about them here;
https://youtu.be/9nl8-ZR532s?si=oZ4EkJ-gsagTfIq5
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Jeez ! Sounds/looks good mate! Haha
Got to work this morning parked up, ping engine light on ffs...well lasted 3 days I guess lol..
Had booked an mot monday so cancelling that while have light on 😳🙈
Have asked the garage to see if can get me in and thinking check the new plugs etc if gaps all ok amd coils in flush etc...
A smoke test to finally (hopefully) see where this air/vacuum leak is..
And thought looking on servicing info from last owner fuel filter not been done for a couple of years, Google says there are life time but lots say change 40-60k.. but if its not 100% ot won't hurt it I guess for a fresh one..
Tbf lots online saying more likely the intake has a split/gap or staying open or something, and poss leaky injector for the misfire etc.
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Jeez ! Sounds/looks good mate! Haha
Got to work this morning parked up, ping engine light on ffs...well lasted 3 days I guess lol..
Had booked an mot monday so cancelling that while have light on 😳🙈
Have asked the garage to see if can get me in and thinking check the new plugs etc if gaps all ok amd coils in flush etc...
A smoke test to finally (hopefully) see where this air/vacuum leak is..
And thought looking on servicing info from last owner fuel filter not been done for a couple of years, Google says there are life time but lots say change 40-60k.. but if its not 100% ot won't hurt it I guess for a fresh one..
Tbf lots online saying more likely the intake has a split/gap or staying open or something, and poss leaky injector for the misfire etc.
Yeah I will be asking VW to change mine on the next service, I will also my requesting my gearbox oil be replaced (I have a manual) as my car is on 82k now.
Might be worth checking these guys out, they seem to be in your area?
https://csnautos.co.uk/vw-specialist-norwich/
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Yeh did msg them tbf when I enquired about a timing chain and waterpump ... £2,200 🫣😅 I did try another vw guys they were £1800.
Timing chain is ok atm just thought would ask them the other week haha...
They said expensive as buy all genuine parts and a good 8hrs labour etc...
Didnt pay much more than that for the car from a friend lol..
Well last night went for a drive and ping engine light went off! Make your bloody mind up!! Haha
So gunna risk the mot tomoz if stays off, and to see what they say what needs doing to it etc..
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Jesus, your car is winding you up on purpose! Not what you want jujst before Christmas ether!
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Hahaha I know... we shall see what happens later lol
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Well.....
It passed!! :grin: :grin:
Also said a small.coolant leak to keep an eye on.
I know my noise when rev it is 99.9% wastegate rattle but would this "sleeve" make a noise? Lol...
(https://i.postimg.cc/02PYvJkp/20251208-172329.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mhpzNkFD)
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A bit of good news at last👍
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Hahha yes :laugh: :laugh:
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A bit of good news at last👍
Mind u saying that, i think the slight coolant leak is prob the waterpump lol..
Have to fill the reservoir at least once a week.
Doesn't ever overheat tho or the usual symptoms,
Going to have a smoke test soon to see how all pipes out for air leak that I had, but maybe if a split in a coolant hose etc poss, could help to see aswell.
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Hate to say it but sounds like it hasnt been verywell looked after by the previous owners.
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I had a Discovery 4 that had a perpetual problem of going into limp home mode when revs got above 2k (when the second of the two turbo’s kicked in) Replaced MAF sensors, CSV etc eventually solved with a smoke test - minute pin hole in a seal on the connecting pipe - part cost about £2 and took 30 minutes to fix.
Fingers crossed yours is as simple and cheap.
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I had a Discovery 4 that had a perpetual problem of going into limp home mode when revs got above 2k (when the second of the two turbo’s kicked in) Replaced MAF sensors, CSV etc eventually solved with a smoke test - minute pin hole in a seal on the connecting pipe - part cost about £2 and took 30 minutes to fix.
Fingers crossed yours is as simple and cheap.
Lets all pray hahaha 🙏
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Hate to say it but sounds like it hasnt been verywell looked after by the previous owners.
Been serviced etc all good, bit maybe at the mileage its due for a few things...which im.not gunna keep paying loads as the car was only bought for £2.5k lol
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And be silly.getting waterpump done when in same area as timing chain but then it goes from a £600 job (thats enough lol) to nearly 2k... when the engine is high anyways lol..running fine tho and plenty of poke etc.. but yeh coolant is wierd,
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Still losing coolant, garage said looked like could be from the heater pipes so could need those changing rather than the matrix lol..
Also no leaks in footwell or smell iside the car and no visible leaks on the floor either and heat when I turn the heating up.
Did think il check the 2 pipes at front of the engine from the reservoir which wrap round the front of the engine.
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Still losing coolant, garage said looked like could be from the heater pipes so could need those changing rather than the matrix lol..
Also no leaks in footwell or smell iside the car and no visible leaks on the floor either and heat when I turn the heating up.
Did think il check the 2 pipes at front of the engine from the reservoir which wrap round the front of the engine.
I had a similar issue on my MK6 2.0 TDI, turned out to be the Radiator I replaced it myself on my drive, took me a few days as I was waiting on parts but I did have my other car I could use in the meantime so wassn't bothered.
Popped the front end up on Axel stands, removed the bumper, the headlights, crashbar then it was really easy to access the Rad to swap it out, naturally, dont forget to drain the coolant then replace it.
word of warning, these engines love to airlock. When you topup your coolant after the job being done, run the car upto temp with the coolant cap off. then put the cap on and go for a drive, about 10-15 miles, make sure you kjeep a 5L bottle of already mixed coolant in the boot to top up, over time, the car will get rid of the airlocks and you will get a low coolant warning on the dash. I had this for about 3 drives over 3 different days, I wanted to let the engine cool down overnight, then went for a drive, after 3 days of doing this, all the airlocks were gone and my coolant levels were sorted.
Also remember to have the heating on HOT and full blast int he cab when you do this.
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Ah ok thanks,
Obviously I have been reading alot about this kind of thing lately lol...did see about running car with no cap on tbh about the airlock etc... would an airlock.make coolant leak tho?
But yeh the 2 coolant pipes front of engine font seem too much to replace if did that, like i say the guy said about the heater pipes but thats turbo side of the engine.
Will get it checked again I thjnk and even get them to do the dreaded head gasket test lol...as I say doesn't overheat etc,car runs fine just Obviously in my head I dont want to go on a longer journey for the coolant loss.
I know Obviously a chance of a water pump too which been told.around £600.
And I guess radweld is a nooooooo 😆 🤣
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Forgot to show these when the mechanic said these pipes seem to be where was a leak.
(https://i.postimg.cc/j52HKjdZ/Screenshot-20251221-172437-Outlook.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PpGpQTDw)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bJrx8vNT/Screenshot-20251221-172454-Outlook.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/CByBsS8B)
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Ah ok thanks,
Obviously I have been reading alot about this kind of thing lately lol...did see about running car with no cap on tbh about the airlock etc... would an airlock.make coolant leak tho?
But yeh the 2 coolant pipes front of engine font seem too much to replace if did that, like i say the guy said about the heater pipes but thats turbo side of the engine.
Will get it checked again I thjnk and even get them to do the dreaded head gasket test lol...as I say doesn't overheat etc,car runs fine just Obviously in my head I dont want to go on a longer journey for the coolant loss.
I know Obviously a chance of a water pump too which been told.around £600.
And I guess radweld is a nooooooo 😆 🤣
So, no, air locks 100% will not cause coolant leaks. its hard to tell from your pictures if the pipes are broken to be honest.
That black unit with coolant hoses is almost certainly the auxiliary coolant pump (often called the turbo after-run pump but also known as Auxiliary water pump, Turbo coolant pump, After-run pump).
It’s an electric water pump that circulates coolant after the engine is switched off its main job is to cool the turbocharger and cylinder head, preventing heat soak it can also run during certain driving conditions to help manage coolant flow.
They can go faulty but its not super common for them to break.
You tend to get coolant leaks from the pump body, Internal failure causing coolant circulation faults they are often replaced together with hoses because the plastic gets brittle.
Looking at your pictures, I am not convinced that pump is leaking.
- The top and side of the pump housing are dry
- The coolant staining looks baked-on and dusty, not wet or fresh
- The residue pattern looks like it’s been dripping down onto the pump, not originating from it
- If the pump housing seam or electrical body were leaking, you’d usually see, fresh pink/white crust right at the seam & dampness around the hose connections
Coolant leaks love to travel downward, and this pump sits low. Typical culprits are above it, very common leak sources above this pump on Mk6 GTIs can be, Water pump / thermostat housing (EXTREMELY common on EA888), Plastic housing warps or cracks coolant drips down the front of the block, Upper radiator hose connection, coolant flange on the cylinder head, expansion tank return hose & oil cooler seals (coolant + oil heat exchanger area rare).
Any of these will drip down and coat the aux pump, making it look guilty when it’s just the victim :undecided:
My advice going forward before you spend any serious money would be, Clean the area with brake cleaner and get that pump super duper clean. Drive for a day or two, Recheck with a torch → the highest wet point is your leak.
Even better (But will cost money)
- Cooling system pressure test (cold engine)
- UV dye in coolant (shops do this quickly)
But, if I had to guess, I would agree, its likely the Water pump or Thermostat.
I agree with you, not worth replacing the Water pump unless your doing the timing belt as well, likely due anyway.
As for your Head gasket, these are not fords, you don't have to worry about that :grin:
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But, if I had to guess, I would agree, its likely the Water pump or Thermostat.
I agree with you, not worth replacing the Water pump unless your doing the timing belt as well, likely due anyway.
As for your Head gasket, these are not fords, you don't have to worry about that :grin:
The standard mk6 GTI EA888 engine has a timing chain, not a belt (the ED35 GTI with the EA113 engine has a timing belt).
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Thanks for your reply nino as always! Great info 👌👌😁
The garage couldn't get me in till.6th Jan understandably around this time lol..
But drove past work today to see our mechanic and to show him where the garage said was leaking on heater pipe, our mechanic literally touched the connector very softly and the "nipple" literally fell off and he said well id say thats where your leak is from (and a high spot as u were talking about)
So I was like sh!t, but hes very experienced and an hour later after having a think and taking the top.hose off he tap and dyed the connector and put an aluminium part in and reconnected so, sorted, whilst he was doing that I did order a brand new one only £13 but he did say tbh the metal part prob stronger than another plastic part 😆 🤣...
We let it kept up to temperature etc and seemed no leak at all will keep an eye on next few days obviously.
I know u say about its not a ford haha...
It doesn't overheat and things like that, but does have "steam" from exhaust not all.the time tho.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FF3PDnZV/Screenshot-20251222-151924-e-Bay.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w3xcB2n1)
(https://i.postimg.cc/VkLDsscS/20251222-153705.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LnwzNp5R)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zGX0DD1j/20251222-154001.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fJpxBNyt)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0y2c55qn/20251222-155126.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PP9m2jJv)
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But, if I had to guess, I would agree, its likely the Water pump or Thermostat.
I agree with you, not worth replacing the Water pump unless your doing the timing belt as well, likely due anyway.
As for your Head gasket, these are not fords, you don't have to worry about that :grin:
The standard mk6 GTI EA888 engine has a timing chain, not a belt (the ED35 GTI with the EA113 engine has a timing belt).
You are right, I keep forgetting this :cool:
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Thanks for your reply nino as always! Great info 👌👌😁
The garage couldn't get me in till.6th Jan understandably around this time lol..
But drove past work today to see our mechanic and to show him where the garage said was leaking on heater pipe, our mechanic literally touched the connector very softly and the "nipple" literally fell off and he said well id say thats where your leak is from (and a high spot as u were talking about)
So I was like sh!t, but hes very experienced and an hour later after having a think and taking the top.hose off he tap and dyed the connector and put an aluminium part in and reconnected so, sorted, whilst he was doing that I did order a brand new one only £13 but he did say tbh the metal part prob stronger than another plastic part 😆 🤣...
We let it kept up to temperature etc and seemed no leak at all will keep an eye on next few days obviously.
I know u say about its not a ford haha...
It doesn't overheat and things like that, but does have "steam" from exhaust not all.the time tho.
(https://i.postimg.cc/FF3PDnZV/Screenshot-20251222-151924-e-Bay.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/w3xcB2n1)
(https://i.postimg.cc/VkLDsscS/20251222-153705.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LnwzNp5R)
(https://i.postimg.cc/zGX0DD1j/20251222-154001.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/fJpxBNyt)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0y2c55qn/20251222-155126.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/PP9m2jJv)
Oh I love Macro fixes like this! RESULT!!!
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Haha indeed! I'll keep an eye obviously...
The only tiny thing is where that drip was on the other pic I sent on auxiliary pump, that broken heater part, surely couldnt/wouldnt have made its way to that point !?! Haha
Which is why possibly (aswell as yesterday's fix) could be those 2 coolant pipes that wrap around front of the engine too. 😁
Oh and random but not complaining, when I check oil it seemes pretty good since had it 3mths ago? Surely should be needing some by now :grin: :grin:
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Haha indeed! I'll keep an eye obviously...
The only tiny thing is where that drip was on the other pic I sent on auxiliary pump, that broken heater part, surely couldnt/wouldnt have made its way to that point !?! Haha
Which is why possibly (aswell as yesterday's fix) could be those 2 coolant pipes that wrap around front of the engine too. 😁
Oh and random but not complaining, when I check oil it seemes pretty good since had it 3mths ago? Surely should be needing some by now :grin: :grin:
Give that pump a good clean, cleanup any evidence of coolant and see if it comes back.
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Right..lol... just gave car a clean and once over, thought would stare at connector for a few mins
..and it was leaking about every 1-2 mins..
The part fixed yesterday seems fine I have took 2 pics and put arrows lol... I think the actual part is knackered maybe a ti y crack in it or something not that we really checked it last night, as was dripping from the top part... looked like where I have "arrowed" so maybe good job I ordered a whole new part lol
(https://i.postimg.cc/C5Sb9x4k/20251223-132943.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HcvJyHRk)
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZnH6mzfp/20251223-133221.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/1Vg80213)
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Very good work! I would say you have found it too.
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Hope so :grin:
Only thing I thought was if the connector wasnt on 100%and the drip came from there and fell off on that area but not sure
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If was coming from red arrow area surely would drop off at lowest point blue arrow, but its dripping from green arrow of the plastic connector ... so hopefully a new 1 sorts it :rolleyes:
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(https://i.postimg.cc/ZRkgQ2DB/Screenshot-20251223-151706-Whats-App.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/JyqPD68M)
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Managed to get the drip today lol, havent replaced the connector yet, been waiting for the lower connector to.arrive and do both at same time....
Its either dripping out of small crack on that connector or o ring knackered poss.. cant seem to upload a video?
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(https://i.postimg.cc/Df4x4tkB/Screenshot-20251226-184014-Gallery.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NLY6WC0H)
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Shame.cant get vids on here was a steady drip today 😬🙄
Both top and bottom connectors come tomoz.. but half wondering aswell as them of pipe maybe perished
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Change 1 thing at a time.
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Ok, well.the connectors were like £14 each so not too bad, doing then fri,
The right arrow is where the big drip came from the other day and the left arrow is where had a steady drip when got back from work today, unless because it hotter as was driving bit longer than normal
(https://i.postimg.cc/qqFyk5dg/Screenshot-20251229-152838-Gallery.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/ZvrCHjnh)
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Looking at the right arrow, it could be the pipe connected to it isn't making a good enough seal.
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Ah ok,
Shall I stick with trying these 2 new connectors/couplings 1st then of still.happening, pipes?
They seem hardish to find , when I find ones that look similar i get the "doesnt fit your car"
But also had that before on a part and worked fine but obvs I want to get proper pipes, starting to get rather annoying with the topping up, coolant smell etc lol
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(https://i.postimg.cc/JhFL71H0/Screenshot-20251230-150838-e-Bay.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/v15j3wzw)
(https://i.postimg.cc/k5HmMnRK/Screenshot-20251230-150853-Google.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mc7q8Wwg)
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IF it was me, Looking at the condition of your pipes etc, I would change the lot, more for peice of mind.
Happy new year!
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And to u mate 😁🥳
Yep well as said above cant seem to find the right bloody pipes!! Lol...doing the connectors tomoz after work..
Will see if that does anything but yes think will deffo do the pipes too maybe next week, I guess oem pipes will/maybe cone with the connectors etc, so maybe a waste me buying the connectors tbf lol..
But reading up a lot seem to recommend decent pipes some even the forge ones etc but £70 is a lot for 2 pipes lol 😆 😉
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And to u mate 😁🥳
Yep well as said above cant seem to find the right bloody pipes!! Lol...doing the connectors tomoz after work..
Will see if that does anything but yes think will deffo do the pipes too maybe next week, I guess oem pipes will/maybe cone with the connectors etc, so maybe a waste me buying the connectors tbf lol..
But reading up a lot seem to recommend decent pipes some even the forge ones etc but £70 is a lot for 2 pipes lol 😆 😉
£70 to fix a car, result in my eyes.
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Haha indeed...
Well atm all is good 👌😁 :laugh: :grin:
We put the connectors on after work..bit fiddly and the bottom one was even stuck on a bit then the end broke off trying to get it off lol !
Took some pics
..
The ones on there literally fell apart might as well be made of chocolate!! Lol.
Squeeze them slightly and literally just crumbled and you can see the o rings in them compared to new ones are absolutely gone, completely fooked lol...
(https://i.postimg.cc/253wg067/20260102-145305.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mcfCHN7P)
(https://i.postimg.cc/q7YLr26p/20260102-151212.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/LqtfBYVW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/6QT0FMqB/20260102-152018.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/B89HKc2z)
(https://i.postimg.cc/bvdT4mrv/20260102-152113.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/2qRhZF4p)
(https://i.postimg.cc/nL5kxq9Z/20260102-153810.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/GBFYJ8jS)
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Jesus! Good catch that!
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Haha yeh, almost get anxiety now thinking how foooked plastic is in a mega hot area lol
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Yeha I bet, hopefully thats your leaks all fixed now.
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Yep will keep an eye on it for a few days but yes atm all.is good...
Google says these parts last 10years... yeah course they do 😆 🤣
I have a few dodgy bits of paint work maybe an inch squared or slightly better where the guy has tried rubbing off a chip then randomly spraying white on it... mechanic at work reckons he could get his polisher machine on it and touch up paint to make them.look better as can really see when the cars clean ..
But as I said I like to make it look nice but end of the day its a daily and getting on a bit...
Doesn't stop me looking at bits for it but I dont think things like exhaust/induction kit is worth it ? As exhaust once warmed up still sounds alright tbf if do put foot down... and induction kit etc could just play with the running of the engine poss..
Not much else really I could do I dont think? Also im.40.its not like i go cruising out and about anymore ! Haha...
Back in the day had a couple of civic type r's which i enjoyed tbf.
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZqF3vvw9/Screenshot-20250415-160335-Facebook.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/7Chbph8D)
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We are around the same age :)
Totally get what you mean. Without seeing the paint, I wouldn't be able to tell you if its "fixable" I am abit of stickler when it comes to detailing my cars.
This was my R32 for example
(https://i.ibb.co/h1BSytBk/IMG-1273-2.jpg)
After owning that, putting an induction kit or exhaust has felt alittle pointless to me, I can never match that lovely sound.
But it doesn't stop me trying to make my GTi look as good :grin:
(https://i.ibb.co/pvMy9Lbw/IMG-4555.jpg)
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Yeh they are awesome mate always loved them lol...
Im 42 lol... yeh I do like to properly clean my car etc too but yeh when clean u see the few blemishes which at the end of the day its a daily and cant expect too much..il get some pics later if can remember haha
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Heard a good trick today when looking for a decent air freshener.
Take out the cabin filter and spray it with a nice aftershave or scent and lasts a while thru the vents?
Was looking at these.
(https://i.postimg.cc/sxdk2hsz/Screenshot-20260107-194931-Google.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/341SSWkf)
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I’ve heard this tip before, but honestly it’s not a great idea.
The cabin filter isn’t just there for smell it’s designed to trap dust, pollen and fine particles, and on many cars it’s also a carbon filter for absorbing odors. Spraying aftershave or perfume into it can clog the filter fibers, reduce airflow, and basically “use up” the carbon so it stops doing its actual job.
Another issue is moisture. Once you soak the filter, it can hold dampness and dirt, which over time can lead to musty smells, bacteria or even mold. What smells good for a few days can end up worse than before.
It also means you’re constantly blowing heated perfume straight into the cabin, which can be irritating or headache-inducing, especially on longer drives.
It probably won’t kill the filter immediately, but it does compromise how it works, and cabin filters are cheap enough that it makes more sense to just replace it with a charcoal or scented one, or use a proper vent freshener instead.
If you want lasting smell in the car, Buy them Calaforina sent circle tub things and pop one in youre doorcad, Lasts months.
Best sents imho are:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/California-Car-Scents-Laguna-Freshener/dp/B01ANKJ53E/ref=sr_1_19?adgrpid=52896837253&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.cFFaQ0FOsw9xKzQSyJXNDVJKxs3_iDybkVOBYDwtA7YCzUqrSg0awgIvx39GN3ctwYyjQpFaKX1BG07XhbCbuH0sMcO08gad8scfQUpJrUYWhmXW2FEzLVzGgmylIDHJ35jgJT2TlTCbhJFKwTVvFFUOLypcknnPGqU_-d2Dhi7ubdolcezI23A96bSx3N_l9AAXeoAu5RI_c-jv4PkCe8V3kR8L7kL5xqEAHAstpDlIvZutHQ2IT0l5t3Voq6cpIObuxHt8L8AqqFxKj2M11Bt96f1JHt2-dDClTPflpDE.gdKV-umaL6A2_Hc8G2J4VdSnjMb29nKp9aWLWvoGl-o&dib_tag=se&gad_source=1&hvadid=592976248234&hvdev=c&hvexpln=0&hvlocphy=9189492&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=14345379064602293390--&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14345379064602293390&hvtargid=kwd-299431390453&hydadcr=25331_2646836&keywords=california+scent&mcid=ccf4447530d83830858c7845f439d6fa&qid=1767905318&sr=8-19
And
https://www.amazon.co.uk/California-Car-Scents-Delight-Freshener/dp/B01ANO7C94/ref=sr_1_20?adgrpid=52896837253&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.cFFaQ0FOsw9xKzQSyJXNDVJKxs3_iDybkVOBYDwtA7YCzUqrSg0awgIvx39GN3ctwYyjQpFaKX1BG07XhbCbuH0sMcO08gad8scfQUpJrUYWhmXW2FEzLVzGgmylIDHJ35jgJT2TlTCbhJFKwTVvFFUOLypcknnPGqU_-d2Dhi7ubdolcezI23A96bSx3N_l9AAXeoAu5RI_c-jv4PkCe8V3kR8L7kL5xqEAHAstpDlIvZutHQ2IT0l5t3Voq6cpIObuxHt8L8AqqFxKj2M11Bt96f1JHt2-dDClTPflpDE.gdKV-umaL6A2_Hc8G2J4VdSnjMb29nKp9aWLWvoGl-o&dib_tag=se&gad_source=1&hvadid=592976248234&hvdev=c&hvexpln=0&hvlocphy=9189492&hvnetw=g&hvocijid=14345379064602293390--&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14345379064602293390&hvtargid=kwd-299431390453&hydadcr=25331_2646836&keywords=california%2Bscent&mcid=ccf4447530d83830858c7845f439d6fa&qid=1767905318&sr=8-20&th=1
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Ah awesome cheers mate..yeh I did read up that could even potentially cause a fire risk as hvac etc too? But yeh will probably just get some of the chemical guys stuff and spray on floor mats etc like some reviews say etc or the ones you have put the links up 😁👌