GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk7 => Topic started by: Redreels on 26 June 2024, 18:53
-
Hi All,
I picked up a 2019 GTI PP last month and I am really enjoying it.
I travelled to view the car and was told the rear tyres had found to have cracks so we were advised not to test drive it but I was able to start the car and move it across the car park to inspect it.
Sounded fine and was happy enough to proceed based on condition, history and the fact there aren’t many white silver models with Brescia wheels and the Pano roof.
I collected the car the following week after a brief test drive but as I settled into ownership I am very aware of a metallic light rattle on cold start. I was initially concerned but have noticed this noise is only present on cold start and stops as soon as the revs drop. The engine is otherwise smooth and noise free during driving.
I have the car in at VW on Friday for an oil service and wondered if there was a known problem or a way to prevent this noise. It sounds quite alarming as it starts up.
Any advice appreciated
Thanks
James
-
I have recently started noticing the same thing on mine, first thing in the mornings. Had a quick google and found this on the Mk7 forum, and didn't think anything more of it.
https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/metallic-rattling-on-cold-start.386673/#google_vignette
Could be worth asking if it is normal with the service tomorrow?
-
Thank you, I had actually seen this thread myself. I wondered if this was more likely in the U.S rather than the UK.
The chap mentioning the engine treatment was odd as I wouldn’t have said it was an internal issue. It sounds more like a loose clamp on the exhaust for instance.
It was reassuring to read it sounds normal but I suspect the service advisor won’t be much use tomorrow. I will ask though :smiley:
-
Well after visiting Inchcape Stockport today it was hands down the worst experience I have had at a dealership in my 27 years of driving.
Waited for 8 1/2 hours for an oil service. Then got no inspection video or any information on the brake and tyre check I requested.
If this is a reflection on the brand I should have stayed with Audi
I will do my upmost never to set foot in there again.
-
Try VW World on Carrington Road, SK1 2JT.
-
Thanks for that. Actually signed up with a service plan to maintain the vw history. Will try another dealer next year but hadn’t heard of VW world
-
Worth a look, use OEM parts and have full access to the VW service portal / system.
-
Thanks, I will look them up if I need anything
-
I have recently started noticing the same thing on mine, first thing in the mornings. Had a quick google and found this on the Mk7 forum, and didn't think anything more of it.
https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/metallic-rattling-on-cold-start.386673/#google_vignette
Could be worth asking if it is normal with the service tomorrow?
Mine does exactly the same thing, I was always lead to believe it was the car building up oil pressure on cold start up? It’s goes away about after a few minutes and everything quiets down, iv heard another gti like mine do the same thing so im not concerned
-
It always makes me cringe when I see drivers at work get into their cars and no sooner has their door shut they have started the engines and are driving away - not even 10 secs for the engine to get the oil around to the important bits.
-
Very true, I let mine idle for about 30 seconds from cold and let it warm down at the end of a journey by idling again for 30 seconds.
The noise the OP mentions is normal, mines done it from brand new and it’s a well cared for engine. Its just the oil reaching pressure as others have posted.
-
In the early days of road cars with a novel “turbo thingie” such as the SAAB Turbo, drivers were warned to let the turbo cool down by leaving a hot engine to idle for a brief period to avoid high temperatures from heat sink.
Alternatively to drive gently for final the few minutes.
I know those days are long gone but after a long fast run, I still complete the final couple of miles home more gently to follow the same principles.
It’s probably pointless……but I like doing it anyway. Or maybe it’s my OCD kicking in.
(Likewise keep revs to under 2500 until I’m confident the engine is fully warmed. As I live 1 minute from a busy roundabout with 3 dual carriageways, this can cause some irritation to other road users!!!).
-
In the early days of road cars with a novel “turbo thingie” such as the SAAB Turbo, drivers were warned to let the turbo cool down by leaving a hot engine to idle for a brief period to avoid high temperatures from heat sink.
Alternatively to drive gently for final the few minutes.
I know those days are long gone but after a long fast run, I still complete the final couple of miles home more gently to follow the same principles.
It’s probably pointless……but I like doing it anyway. Or maybe it’s my OCD kicking in.
(Likewise keep revs to under 2500 until I’m confident the engine is fully warmed. As I live 1 minute from a busy roundabout with 3 dual carriageways, this can cause some irritation to other road users!!!).
I suspect we are a similar age…😂
-
It wasn't as much letting the turbo cool down, it was letting the turbo slow down.
If you give the car beans then turn off straight away the turbo can still be spinning at a pretty staggering speed, like 150,000rpm + and if the engine is stopped it will be spinning with no oil pressure or flow in the turbo bearings. That causes the oil there to become carbonised and eventually the turbo will fail.
I think it is still good practice to allow the car to idle for a short while before switching off if you have come straight from a high speed blast.
-
It wasn't as much letting the cool down, it was letting the turbo slow down.
If you give the car beans then turn off straight away the turbo can still be spinning at a pretty staggering speed, like 150,000rpm + and if the engine is stopped it will be spinning with no oil pressure or flow in the turbo bearings. That causes the oil there to become carbonised and eventually the turbo will fail.
I think it is still good practice to allow the car to idle for a short while before switching off if you have come straight from a high speed blast.
I always treat my car with mechanical sympathy so I ensure the oil’s up to 90 degrees before driving it ‘enthusiastically’, although with the general poor state of the UK’s roads, and seemingly ever-increasing traffic congestion, I’m rarely an enthusiastic driver these days. I also garage my car so by default, my car’s engine gets a short idling period while I’m closing my garage door after getting the car out of the garage and when opening the garage door before putting it away after use. Most of my journeys seem to start and end in a speed restricted area, so it’s gentle driving for me at the start and end of a journey.
I think VW (and I’m assuming other manufacturers do too) also fit an electric cooling pump that continues to operate after the engine’s been switched off that helps to cool the turbo down - it’s that ‘mysterious’ humming noise that can be heard after you’ve locked the car after it’s been used which has been discussed over the years on various VW forums.
-
It wasn't as much letting the cool down, it was letting the turbo slow down.
If you give the car beans then turn off straight away the turbo can still be spinning at a pretty staggering speed, like 150,000rpm + and if the engine is stopped it will be spinning with no oil pressure or flow in the turbo bearings. That causes the oil there to become carbonised and eventually the turbo will fail.
I think it is still good practice to allow the car to idle for a short while before switching off if you have come straight from a high speed blast.
Not sure if that is relevant these days given stop/start systems?
-
It wasn't as much letting the cool down, it was letting the turbo slow down.
If you give the car beans then turn off straight away the turbo can still be spinning at a pretty staggering speed, like 150,000rpm + and if the engine is stopped it will be spinning with no oil pressure or flow in the turbo bearings. That causes the oil there to become carbonised and eventually the turbo will fail.
I think it is still good practice to allow the car to idle for a short while before switching off if you have come straight from a high speed blast.
Not sure if that is relevant these days given stop/start systems?
Probably where the electric cooling pump comes into play - assuming it kicks in when stop start has switched the engine off.
-
From page 132 in the manual:
"When starting from cold, the engine may be a little noisy for the first few seconds. This is quite normal, and no cause for concern.".
Not specific as to whether it's referring to just the higher idle RPM or rattling noise, but again sounds like it's normal.
Also from page 132:
"Do not warm up the engine by running it while the vehicle is stationary. Instead, pull off as soon as there is good visibility through the windows. This helps the engine reach operating temp faster and reduces emissions".
Granted it's an eco tip, but seems like VW are happy for the car to be driven right away
-
Not sure if that is relevant these days given stop/start systems?
Agreed, The Turbo slows very quickly to an idle speed and doesn't really generate any meaningful boost, and remains spinning all the time the engine is idling anyway. A very short distance after fast driving is all it really needs to slow down/cool down.
regarding low revs and cold cars, I have read on Porsche forums of ongoing problems where some PDK cars pull away in 2nd gear, that driving with low revs on thick cold oil is really bad and anything other than med revs light throttle puts a lot of stress on bearings and cylinder walls. Assume on our cars below boost would be low revs high torque applications.
Regarding start up noise, it was on our new Mk7 in 2014 and my 7.5 now, sort of an electrical whine/buzz almost like alternator clutch pulley gone bad for a few seconds. Then it sounds like engine valve overlap to help cat and engine warm up.
-
Hi chaps, it appears the rattle is the waste gate actuator rod. I started the car and by holding the rod was able to stop the horrible rattle.
I can see there are wastegate clips available online for a couple of quid but here is a link
https://www.akstuning.co.uk/shop/home/1236-genuine-wastegate-actuator-rod-anti-rattle-clip-06j145220a-mk6-gti-ea888-etc.html
They seem to be aimed for the Mk6 golf but I wondered if they would fit the 7.5 model. Any thoughts please?
I found this video to highlight the matter
https://m.youtube.com/shorts/_cGl6V-86L4
-
It looks like the clips are a different design and the rattle is coming from a different point. I will have a go at making something myself
-
Not sure it’s worth posting as there doesn’t appear to be much activity on this forum but in the hope it helps someone else.
This video shows the actuator position when on a cold start. The rattle is clearly audible by then once the cold start procedure stops the actuator position changes (pulled in) and the rattle stops.
What I intend to do is find a suitable clip or circlip that I can fit on the actuator that will reduce/prevent the noise rattle without restricting movement
https://youtu.be/75v_TxInDYg
-
Not sure it’s worth posting as there doesn’t appear to be much activity on this forum but in the hope it helps someone else.
This video shows the actuator position when on a cold start. The rattle is clearly audible by then once the cold start procedure stops the actuator position changes (pulled in) and the rattle stops.
What I intend to do is find a suitable clip or circlip that I can fit on the actuator that will reduce/prevent the noise rattle without restricting movement
https://youtu.be/75v_TxInDYg
Deader than platform shoes :cool:
-
Keep posting then chaps/chapesses - problem is new ways of communicating, people moving on from the MK7 and not enough new people. Those like me that have been here a while have already discussed many topics over and over again so are less likely to get involved.
But don't give up, there's still plenty around with lots of experience plus people like yourselves have so much to give too :smiley:
-
Thanks for the encouragement. I am going to be hampered by the position of the actuator to try and fit a clip in situ.
Also when the rod is extended it appears to have more play but when the rod is retracted the gaps on the clip appear smaller. I am not sure if a clip would then restrict the movement of the rod.
What I do know is that the cold start rattle annoys the hell out of me
-
I’ve had it on mine for a few years, only last about 20 seconds just after the revs settle down to sub 1k after start up, hardly notice it now.
But mine has a creak from the door seals that drives me insane so I feel your pain☹️
-
It just doesn’t feel like a premium car on cold start. It’s embarrassing as it sounds like the engine is pulling itself apart.
I am happier I have found the cause but the lack of access will make it difficult to prevent the rattle