GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk7 => Topic started by: Ben7.5GTI on 07 August 2021, 12:07
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Stick with me on this one, make a cuppa, might be a long one.
Had my 2019 mk7.5 GTi PP with GPF (manual) for 3/4months now and I'm now running through the options for modifications, more performance oriented than looks. The looks side of things is sorted by cleaning the car myself every 2/3 weeks and spending about 4 hours each time doing that. My plans for the car are to keep it for as long as it runs or petrol is outlawed :grin:. My daily driving is a 12 mile round trip to work, and every few weeks a 300mile round trip up the motorway, works out at a bit under 1000 miles a month.
I have already had the APR short shifter kit fitted as this just makes the every day driving just a bit more fun and snappy. This is just the start of what I want to do to the car and I think a power increase is whats next. My insurance will allow a 25% increase over the 245hp stock figures (the increase would put me to 306.25hp). I'd rather not change my insurance as they are the only company that doesn't massively increase my premiums with my partner on the policy. Theres a few options regarding the performance increase as listed below.
1. APR stage 1. The figures from APR on my car would take me from 245hp to around 280hp. Not a massive increase but they put this down to the GPF filter causing the lack of gains compared to non GPF cars. However this still gives me 25hp before my insurance becomes void, allowing for things such as a new air intake and other small modifications that may or may not add small power gains here and there. £650ish
2. Revo Stage 1. The figures quoted by Revo say anywhere between 291-313hp, which could very well put me over the insurance limit. Can see the insurance company just seeing that the power might be over what I'm allowed and instantly making my insurance void. There is extra protection with the revo map such as the cold start protection, which appeals to me but I do keep an eye on the oil temp and keep the revs under 3000rpm untill its at least 70c. £720
3. Racechip GTS black. This would give a 49hp increase in power putting me at 294hp. Slightly more than the APR tune but still under the limit on the insurance. The nice thing about the racechip set up compared to the other two tunes is the app control. Allowing me to change between 3 different modes from eco up to race, saying this i'll probably be put in race mode and never changed. Also there are 7 different tunes to be picked from, MPG increase, a 2 year warranty on the engine (my warranty on the car runs out in 6months). There is also the racechip XLR which allows you to adjust the throttle response. GTS black with app £550, XLR with app £219. So £770 in total.
A big part of me is swaying towards the racechip set up due to the app connectivity giving small changes to suit my personal preference. However I see a lot of people on the internet saying go for a 'proper' tune (revo or APR) over racechip.
Now for some extra thoughts. The APR closed carbon intake is quoted to add 13hp on their test A3. Believe it or not, the insurance company will take that at face value. This on the racechip box would put me just over the limit, but with the APR tune keeps me well within the numbers I need to be. Do I go for more power by changing less hardware, or have less power from a tune (which in turn puts less stress on the engine) and add the intake to give some extra power. Yes the tune and intake will cost more to make less power, but its roughly 10bp different so could change a few other bits eventually to make up the difference.
Going round in circles with what to do here...
Thanks in advance to anyone who helps me empty the bank account :grin:
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This is something that interests me as well.
Not looked too in depth at the moment as my car is still under warranty with under 10,000 miles on it,but one thing I have picked up on is that manual cars (like mine) are recommended to have a clutch upgrade due to slippage issues.
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This is something that interests me as well.
Not looked too in depth at the moment as my car is still under warranty with under 10,000 miles on it,but one thing I have picked up on is that manual cars (like mine) are recommended to have a clutch upgrade due to slippage issues.
I too have seen things about upgrading the clutch, but I don't think its a must. My opinion right now is my clutch is still fairly new, its not had a hard life and I have quite a bit of mechanical sympathy so won't be doing hard pulls very often if ever. Yes i'll put my foot down but once the car is already moving and not in a binary way. Think for now I'm going to say no to a clutch upgrade with the knowledge in 10/15/20,000 miles I may need to get one done.
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Another thing that’s crossed my mind is when I eventually come to sell the car.
I love it,but there will come a time when I fancy a change.
Maybes it’s my age and I don’t mean any offence to anyone who’s mapped their car,but when I look at cars for sale and I see they’ve been mapped,the first thing I think is that it’s been ‘ragged’
It is only my opinion,but I would look to buy a ‘standard’ car and avoid any that have been tinkered with.
Having said all that,i am intrigued by it-the pros and cons.
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Another thing that’s crossed my mind is when I eventually come to sell the car.
I love it,but there will come a time when I fancy a change.
Maybes it’s my age and I don’t mean any offence to anyone who’s mapped their car,but when I look at cars for sale and I see they’ve been mapped,the first thing I think is that it’s been ‘ragged’
It is only my opinion,but I would look to buy a ‘standard’ car and avoid any that have been tinkered with.
Having said all that,i am intrigued by it-the pros and cons.
Yep completely agree with you. If I was looked for a used car and it had been mapped then I would stay away. I know I can't tell the future and I very well may change my mind, but as of now I have no intentions to ever sell the car. So as much as I agree with you, its not something I'm concerned about.
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First off I'd like to say don't bother with the APR closed carbon intake, just a waste of money for no actual gain, the stock intake is more than suitable for much higher power.
With regard to the mapping options, I'd only go Revo or APR they air on the side of caution and they're a proper map, instead of tricking the ECU like a tuning box.
Obviously always fully declare with your insurance company but I think you're being too strict with yourself and I'd consider the Revo as meeting the up to 25% power bracket requirement unless you'll be submitting a dyno sheet to your insurance company as evidence? But if you're nervous of this go with the APR.
You will need a clutch for a stage one map that pushes 300bhp, they're chocolate unfortunately. Although you could request a reduced torque map from Revo to help preserve it.
Also what tyres and alloys are you running? If you're still on the factory Bridgestones (18s) or Pirellis (19s), ditch them get some Goodyear or Michelin rubber on first you'll need it for the power regardless.
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Step 1, fit a pedal box and realise what you’ve been missing.
Step 2, forget the fancy intake and maybe get an uprated turbo inlet pipe.
Step 3, have a look at a BMS JB4 as it’s a trick bit of kit.
Step 4, decide the JB4 is ridiculously complicated to fit and get an OBD flash. Then admire your hands as they’ll still have no oily bits under the nails or plasters where you’d have cut yourself on pipe clips and sharp sensor housings as you drag a JB4 wiring loom around the engine bay.
Step 5, Pat yourself on the back for going for a lower torque map which is easier on the clutch and less prone to wheel-spin, axle tramp other such things. Then enjoy whizzing around on all that lovely extra boost.
Step 6, look to the heavens and hope upon hope that your clutch doesn’t give up the ghost.
Step 7, decide that the engine bay looks a bit dull without that carbon intake so purchase some fancy oil and washer bottle caps.
Step 8, notice that those bog standard DSG R’s still leave you for dead and ponder your life choices…
You’re welcome
:whistle:
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I think step 1 and just stop there :smiley:
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The take away from this is be smart like Watts buy a TCR and admire your IS38 turbo.
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Why just Revo or Apr? Plenty of other tunes to look at. What about Racingline?
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Also what tyres and alloys are you running? If you're still on the factory Bridgestones (18s) or Pirellis (19s), ditch them get some Goodyear or Michelin rubber on first you'll need it for the power regardless.
Did this myself and got Goodyear F1 AS5's all round. It's amazing how much of a difference it makes and really reduces wheelspin
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Why just Revo or Apr? Plenty of other tunes to look at. What about Racingline?
Just looked at that now, looks interesting. Have you got any experience of their maps?
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The "proper tune" being big brands which aren't even tuned by most of the resellers is a comical topic.
Many of the "dealers" for them are flashing generic maps of theirs nonchalantly. :whistle:
Remember it's not all about claimed figures, anyone can push for numbers at the risk of your motor or turbo just so you can say it makes xxx amount of power.
It's about reliability as well as drivability.
What area are you located in?
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The "proper tune" being big brands which aren't even tuned by most of the resellers is a comical topic.
Many of the "dealers" for them are flashing generic maps of theirs nonchalantly. :whistle:
Remember it's not all about claimed figures, anyone can push for numbers at the risk of your motor or turbo just so you can say it makes xxx amount of power.
It's about reliability as well as drivability.
What area are you located in?
Agreed, going for whatever suggests it puts the biggest numbers. I'm not in this to go put the car on the track, or race against other people on the road. A lot of the time I'm just cruising along, but want something thats more capable than the standard car and makes things a bit more interesting when I want to put my foot down.
I'm in the north bristol area, but spend a reasonable amount of time in manchester
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The APR low torque map and Superchips are worth a look if you're worried about the standard clutch. They both dispense with the massive lump of torque a full map can give you around 2-3.5k, and build quite linearly instead.
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Why just Revo or Apr? Plenty of other tunes to look at. What about Racingline?
Just looked at that now, looks interesting. Have you got any experience of their maps?
no not personally.
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Also what tyres and alloys are you running? If you're still on the factory Bridgestones (18s) or Pirellis (19s), ditch them get some Goodyear or Michelin rubber on first you'll need it for the power regardless.
Did this myself and got Goodyear F1 AS5's all round. It's amazing how much of a difference it makes and really reduces wheelspin
standard Bridgestone S001s on my TCR and have never experienced wheelspin or grip issues. If you don't drive like an arse and also wait until they are warm then they are perfectly fine. Now I'm not saying I'd buy them again as other tyres from Goodyear, Michelin and even Bridgestone themselves will be better but used properly they aren't a bad tyre.
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Also what tyres and alloys are you running? If you're still on the factory Bridgestones (18s) or Pirellis (19s), ditch them get some Goodyear or Michelin rubber on first you'll need it for the power regardless.
Did this myself and got Goodyear F1 AS5's all round. It's amazing how much of a difference it makes and really reduces wheelspin
standard Bridgestone S001s on my TCR and have never experienced wheelspin or grip issues. If you don't drive like an arse and also wait until they are warm then they are perfectly fine. Now I'm not saying I'd buy them again as other tyres from Goodyear, Michelin and even Bridgestone themselves will be better but used properly they aren't a bad tyre.
I personally never liked the Bridgestones ditched them as soon as I could they ride hard, wear fast and never thought they felt anything special either.
But considering their price point is above the Goodyear ASY5's they're a very disappointing tyre for everyday, performance and value. (S001 £84 vs ASY5 £80 on Oponeo 225/40R18)
I wouldn't even say I drove like an arse either just coming out of corners and easing the power on they didn't seem to like it, but that could be the roads as well.
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Stick with me on this one, make a cuppa, might be a long one.
Had my 2019 mk7.5 GTi PP with GPF (manual) for 3/4months now and I'm now running through the options for modifications, more performance oriented than looks. The looks side of things is sorted by cleaning the car myself every 2/3 weeks and spending about 4 hours each time doing that. My plans for the car are to keep it for as long as it runs or petrol is outlawed :grin:. My daily driving is a 12 mile round trip to work, and every few weeks a 300mile round trip up the motorway, works out at a bit under 1000 miles a month.
I have already had the APR short shifter kit fitted as this just makes the every day driving just a bit more fun and snappy. This is just the start of what I want to do to the car and I think a power increase is whats next. My insurance will allow a 25% increase over the 245hp stock figures (the increase would put me to 306.25hp). I'd rather not change my insurance as they are the only company that doesn't massively increase my premiums with my partner on the policy. Theres a few options regarding the performance increase as listed below.
1. APR stage 1. The figures from APR on my car would take me from 245hp to around 280hp. Not a massive increase but they put this down to the GPF filter causing the lack of gains compared to non GPF cars. However this still gives me 25hp before my insurance becomes void, allowing for things such as a new air intake and other small modifications that may or may not add small power gains here and there. £650ish
2. Revo Stage 1. The figures quoted by Revo say anywhere between 291-313hp, which could very well put me over the insurance limit. Can see the insurance company just seeing that the power might be over what I'm allowed and instantly making my insurance void. There is extra protection with the revo map such as the cold start protection, which appeals to me but I do keep an eye on the oil temp and keep the revs under 3000rpm untill its at least 70c. £720
3. Racechip GTS black. This would give a 49hp increase in power putting me at 294hp. Slightly more than the APR tune but still under the limit on the insurance. The nice thing about the racechip set up compared to the other two tunes is the app control. Allowing me to change between 3 different modes from eco up to race, saying this i'll probably be put in race mode and never changed. Also there are 7 different tunes to be picked from, MPG increase, a 2 year warranty on the engine (my warranty on the car runs out in 6months). There is also the racechip XLR which allows you to adjust the throttle response. GTS black with app £550, XLR with app £219. So £770 in total.
A big part of me is swaying towards the racechip set up due to the app connectivity giving small changes to suit my personal preference. However I see a lot of people on the internet saying go for a 'proper' tune (revo or APR) over racechip.
Now for some extra thoughts. The APR closed carbon intake is quoted to add 13hp on their test A3. Believe it or not, the insurance company will take that at face value. This on the racechip box would put me just over the limit, but with the APR tune keeps me well within the numbers I need to be. Do I go for more power by changing less hardware, or have less power from a tune (which in turn puts less stress on the engine) and add the intake to give some extra power. Yes the tune and intake will cost more to make less power, but its roughly 10bp different so could change a few other bits eventually to make up the difference.
Going round in circles with what to do here...
Thanks in advance to anyone who helps me empty the bank account :grin:
I have a MK7.5 GTI Performance, Manual, DCC.. I put some Michelin PS4’s on last week and got an APR stage 1 map yesterday. You can feel the difference in power for sure, there’s a slight bit of wheel spin in 1st/2nd depending on the road condition. I’ve kept the standard clutch for now and I’ll just hope for the best, when the time comes to upgrade it I’ll have to do it (hoping that isn’t too soon). Power is around 300-310 now. There is 10% discount on APR maps for august btw.
-
Stick with me on this one, make a cuppa, might be a long one.
Had my 2019 mk7.5 GTi PP with GPF (manual) for 3/4months now and I'm now running through the options for modifications, more performance oriented than looks. The looks side of things is sorted by cleaning the car myself every 2/3 weeks and spending about 4 hours each time doing that. My plans for the car are to keep it for as long as it runs or petrol is outlawed :grin:. My daily driving is a 12 mile round trip to work, and every few weeks a 300mile round trip up the motorway, works out at a bit under 1000 miles a month.
I have already had the APR short shifter kit fitted as this just makes the every day driving just a bit more fun and snappy. This is just the start of what I want to do to the car and I think a power increase is whats next. My insurance will allow a 25% increase over the 245hp stock figures (the increase would put me to 306.25hp). I'd rather not change my insurance as they are the only company that doesn't massively increase my premiums with my partner on the policy. Theres a few options regarding the performance increase as listed below.
1. APR stage 1. The figures from APR on my car would take me from 245hp to around 280hp. Not a massive increase but they put this down to the GPF filter causing the lack of gains compared to non GPF cars. However this still gives me 25hp before my insurance becomes void, allowing for things such as a new air intake and other small modifications that may or may not add small power gains here and there. £650ish
2. Revo Stage 1. The figures quoted by Revo say anywhere between 291-313hp, which could very well put me over the insurance limit. Can see the insurance company just seeing that the power might be over what I'm allowed and instantly making my insurance void. There is extra protection with the revo map such as the cold start protection, which appeals to me but I do keep an eye on the oil temp and keep the revs under 3000rpm untill its at least 70c. £720
3. Racechip GTS black. This would give a 49hp increase in power putting me at 294hp. Slightly more than the APR tune but still under the limit on the insurance. The nice thing about the racechip set up compared to the other two tunes is the app control. Allowing me to change between 3 different modes from eco up to race, saying this i'll probably be put in race mode and never changed. Also there are 7 different tunes to be picked from, MPG increase, a 2 year warranty on the engine (my warranty on the car runs out in 6months). There is also the racechip XLR which allows you to adjust the throttle response. GTS black with app £550, XLR with app £219. So £770 in total.
A big part of me is swaying towards the racechip set up due to the app connectivity giving small changes to suit my personal preference. However I see a lot of people on the internet saying go for a 'proper' tune (revo or APR) over racechip.
Now for some extra thoughts. The APR closed carbon intake is quoted to add 13hp on their test A3. Believe it or not, the insurance company will take that at face value. This on the racechip box would put me just over the limit, but with the APR tune keeps me well within the numbers I need to be. Do I go for more power by changing less hardware, or have less power from a tune (which in turn puts less stress on the engine) and add the intake to give some extra power. Yes the tune and intake will cost more to make less power, but its roughly 10bp different so could change a few other bits eventually to make up the difference.
Going round in circles with what to do here...
Thanks in advance to anyone who helps me empty the bank account :grin:
I have a MK7.5 GTI Performance, Manual, DCC.. I put some Michelin PS4’s on last week and got an APR stage 1 map yesterday. You can feel the difference in power for sure, there’s a slight bit of wheel spin in 1st/2nd depending on the road condition. I’ve kept the standard clutch for now and I’ll just hope for the best, when the time comes to upgrade it I’ll have to do it (hoping that isn’t too soon). Power is around 300-310 now. There is 10% discount on APR maps for august btw.
Nice to here! Only difference is I don't have DCC but oh well.
Does your car have the GPF on it?
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Also what tyres and alloys are you running? If you're still on the factory Bridgestones (18s) or Pirellis (19s), ditch them get some Goodyear or Michelin rubber on first you'll need it for the power regardless.
Did this myself and got Goodyear F1 AS5's all round. It's amazing how much of a difference it makes and really reduces wheelspin
standard Bridgestone S001s on my TCR and have never experienced wheelspin or grip issues. If you don't drive like an arse and also wait until they are warm then they are perfectly fine. Now I'm not saying I'd buy them again as other tyres from Goodyear, Michelin and even Bridgestone themselves will be better but used properly they aren't a bad tyre.
I personally never liked the Bridgestones ditched them as soon as I could they ride hard, wear fast and never thought they felt anything special either.
But considering their price point is above the Goodyear ASY5's they're a very disappointing tyre for everyday, performance and value. (S001 £84 vs ASY5 £80 on Oponeo 225/40R18)
I wouldn't even say I drove like an arse either just coming out of corners and easing the power on they didn't seem to like it, but that could be the roads as well.
don't know how you got yours to wear fast 😂. They are a hard tyre but when warmed up are decent for grip. The new Bridgestone Sport tyre appears to be the same. From what I've watched and read it's apparently a better tyre than the PS4 but only when warmed up. I hated the PS4, found them way too soft in the sidewalls and something Jonathan Benson commented on on his Tyrereviews channel.
-
Stick with me on this one, make a cuppa, might be a long one.
Had my 2019 mk7.5 GTi PP with GPF (manual) for 3/4months now and I'm now running through the options for modifications, more performance oriented than looks. The looks side of things is sorted by cleaning the car myself every 2/3 weeks and spending about 4 hours each time doing that. My plans for the car are to keep it for as long as it runs or petrol is outlawed :grin:. My daily driving is a 12 mile round trip to work, and every few weeks a 300mile round trip up the motorway, works out at a bit under 1000 miles a month.
I have already had the APR short shifter kit fitted as this just makes the every day driving just a bit more fun and snappy. This is just the start of what I want to do to the car and I think a power increase is whats next. My insurance will allow a 25% increase over the 245hp stock figures (the increase would put me to 306.25hp). I'd rather not change my insurance as they are the only company that doesn't massively increase my premiums with my partner on the policy. Theres a few options regarding the performance increase as listed below.
1. APR stage 1. The figures from APR on my car would take me from 245hp to around 280hp. Not a massive increase but they put this down to the GPF filter causing the lack of gains compared to non GPF cars. However this still gives me 25hp before my insurance becomes void, allowing for things such as a new air intake and other small modifications that may or may not add small power gains here and there. £650ish
2. Revo Stage 1. The figures quoted by Revo say anywhere between 291-313hp, which could very well put me over the insurance limit. Can see the insurance company just seeing that the power might be over what I'm allowed and instantly making my insurance void. There is extra protection with the revo map such as the cold start protection, which appeals to me but I do keep an eye on the oil temp and keep the revs under 3000rpm untill its at least 70c. £720
3. Racechip GTS black. This would give a 49hp increase in power putting me at 294hp. Slightly more than the APR tune but still under the limit on the insurance. The nice thing about the racechip set up compared to the other two tunes is the app control. Allowing me to change between 3 different modes from eco up to race, saying this i'll probably be put in race mode and never changed. Also there are 7 different tunes to be picked from, MPG increase, a 2 year warranty on the engine (my warranty on the car runs out in 6months). There is also the racechip XLR which allows you to adjust the throttle response. GTS black with app £550, XLR with app £219. So £770 in total.
A big part of me is swaying towards the racechip set up due to the app connectivity giving small changes to suit my personal preference. However I see a lot of people on the internet saying go for a 'proper' tune (revo or APR) over racechip.
Now for some extra thoughts. The APR closed carbon intake is quoted to add 13hp on their test A3. Believe it or not, the insurance company will take that at face value. This on the racechip box would put me just over the limit, but with the APR tune keeps me well within the numbers I need to be. Do I go for more power by changing less hardware, or have less power from a tune (which in turn puts less stress on the engine) and add the intake to give some extra power. Yes the tune and intake will cost more to make less power, but its roughly 10bp different so could change a few other bits eventually to make up the difference.
Going round in circles with what to do here...
Thanks in advance to anyone who helps me empty the bank account :grin:
I have a MK7.5 GTI Performance, Manual, DCC.. I put some Michelin PS4’s on last week and got an APR stage 1 map yesterday. You can feel the difference in power for sure, there’s a slight bit of wheel spin in 1st/2nd depending on the road condition. I’ve kept the standard clutch for now and I’ll just hope for the best, when the time comes to upgrade it I’ll have to do it (hoping that isn’t too soon). Power is around 300-310 now. There is 10% discount on APR maps for august btw.
Nice to here! Only difference is I don't have DCC but oh well.
Does your car have the GPF on it?
No I don't believe so, 2018 model.
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I personally never liked the Bridgestones ditched them as soon as I could they ride hard, wear fast and never thought they felt anything special either.
But considering their price point is above the Goodyear ASY5's they're a very disappointing tyre for everyday, performance and value. (S001 £84 vs ASY5 £80 on Oponeo 225/40R18)
I wouldn't even say I drove like an arse either just coming out of corners and easing the power on they didn't seem to like it, but that could be the roads as well.
don't know how you got yours to wear fast 😂. They are a hard tyre but when warmed up are decent for grip. The new Bridgestone Sport tyre appears to be the same. From what I've watched and read it's apparently a better tyre than the PS4 but only when warmed up. I hated the PS4, found them way too soft in the sidewalls and something Jonathan Benson commented on on his Tyrereviews channel.
I'd like to know as well, they were nearly half worn when I got them on my GTD at 3k miles. I'm assuming this was just a dealer being cheap and swapping tyres/alloys about but they lasted another 8k or so before I removed for winter tyres.
Yes they get a lot of hate for that hence why I went Goodyear on 18s and the Michelin PS4S' on my 19s.
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Stick with me on this one, make a cuppa, might be a long one.
Had my 2019 mk7.5 GTi PP with GPF (manual) for 3/4months now and I'm now running through the options for modifications, more performance oriented than looks. The looks side of things is sorted by cleaning the car myself every 2/3 weeks and spending about 4 hours each time doing that. My plans for the car are to keep it for as long as it runs or petrol is outlawed :grin:. My daily driving is a 12 mile round trip to work, and every few weeks a 300mile round trip up the motorway, works out at a bit under 1000 miles a month.
I have already had the APR short shifter kit fitted as this just makes the every day driving just a bit more fun and snappy. This is just the start of what I want to do to the car and I think a power increase is whats next. My insurance will allow a 25% increase over the 245hp stock figures (the increase would put me to 306.25hp). I'd rather not change my insurance as they are the only company that doesn't massively increase my premiums with my partner on the policy. Theres a few options regarding the performance increase as listed below.
1. APR stage 1. The figures from APR on my car would take me from 245hp to around 280hp. Not a massive increase but they put this down to the GPF filter causing the lack of gains compared to non GPF cars. However this still gives me 25hp before my insurance becomes void, allowing for things such as a new air intake and other small modifications that may or may not add small power gains here and there. £650ish
2. Revo Stage 1. The figures quoted by Revo say anywhere between 291-313hp, which could very well put me over the insurance limit. Can see the insurance company just seeing that the power might be over what I'm allowed and instantly making my insurance void. There is extra protection with the revo map such as the cold start protection, which appeals to me but I do keep an eye on the oil temp and keep the revs under 3000rpm untill its at least 70c. £720
3. Racechip GTS black. This would give a 49hp increase in power putting me at 294hp. Slightly more than the APR tune but still under the limit on the insurance. The nice thing about the racechip set up compared to the other two tunes is the app control. Allowing me to change between 3 different modes from eco up to race, saying this i'll probably be put in race mode and never changed. Also there are 7 different tunes to be picked from, MPG increase, a 2 year warranty on the engine (my warranty on the car runs out in 6months). There is also the racechip XLR which allows you to adjust the throttle response. GTS black with app £550, XLR with app £219. So £770 in total.
A big part of me is swaying towards the racechip set up due to the app connectivity giving small changes to suit my personal preference. However I see a lot of people on the internet saying go for a 'proper' tune (revo or APR) over racechip.
Now for some extra thoughts. The APR closed carbon intake is quoted to add 13hp on their test A3. Believe it or not, the insurance company will take that at face value. This on the racechip box would put me just over the limit, but with the APR tune keeps me well within the numbers I need to be. Do I go for more power by changing less hardware, or have less power from a tune (which in turn puts less stress on the engine) and add the intake to give some extra power. Yes the tune and intake will cost more to make less power, but its roughly 10bp different so could change a few other bits eventually to make up the difference.
Going round in circles with what to do here...
Thanks in advance to anyone who helps me empty the bank account :grin:
I have a MK7.5 GTI Performance, Manual, DCC.. I put some Michelin PS4’s on last week and got an APR stage 1 map yesterday. You can feel the difference in power for sure, there’s a slight bit of wheel spin in 1st/2nd depending on the road condition. I’ve kept the standard clutch for now and I’ll just hope for the best, when the time comes to upgrade it I’ll have to do it (hoping that isn’t too soon). Power is around 300-310 now. There is 10% discount on APR maps for august btw.
Nice to here! Only difference is I don't have DCC but oh well.
Does your car have the GPF on it?
Hi again, turns out my car does have GPF.
I got my car on the dyno at VRSNorthampton recently and it's pushing 325bhp and 350 ft.lbs torque, I believe this is the low torque option. No slip on the clutch yet (fingers crossed).
I'm having a VAGSport resonator fitted today too.
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Stick with me on this one, make a cuppa, might be a long one.
Had my 2019 mk7.5 GTi PP with GPF (manual) for 3/4months now and I'm now running through the options for modifications, more performance oriented than looks. The looks side of things is sorted by cleaning the car myself every 2/3 weeks and spending about 4 hours each time doing that. My plans for the car are to keep it for as long as it runs or petrol is outlawed :grin:. My daily driving is a 12 mile round trip to work, and every few weeks a 300mile round trip up the motorway, works out at a bit under 1000 miles a month.
I have already had the APR short shifter kit fitted as this just makes the every day driving just a bit more fun and snappy. This is just the start of what I want to do to the car and I think a power increase is whats next. My insurance will allow a 25% increase over the 245hp stock figures (the increase would put me to 306.25hp). I'd rather not change my insurance as they are the only company that doesn't massively increase my premiums with my partner on the policy. Theres a few options regarding the performance increase as listed below.
1. APR stage 1. The figures from APR on my car would take me from 245hp to around 280hp. Not a massive increase but they put this down to the GPF filter causing the lack of gains compared to non GPF cars. However this still gives me 25hp before my insurance becomes void, allowing for things such as a new air intake and other small modifications that may or may not add small power gains here and there. £650ish
2. Revo Stage 1. The figures quoted by Revo say anywhere between 291-313hp, which could very well put me over the insurance limit. Can see the insurance company just seeing that the power might be over what I'm allowed and instantly making my insurance void. There is extra protection with the revo map such as the cold start protection, which appeals to me but I do keep an eye on the oil temp and keep the revs under 3000rpm untill its at least 70c. £720
3. Racechip GTS black. This would give a 49hp increase in power putting me at 294hp. Slightly more than the APR tune but still under the limit on the insurance. The nice thing about the racechip set up compared to the other two tunes is the app control. Allowing me to change between 3 different modes from eco up to race, saying this i'll probably be put in race mode and never changed. Also there are 7 different tunes to be picked from, MPG increase, a 2 year warranty on the engine (my warranty on the car runs out in 6months). There is also the racechip XLR which allows you to adjust the throttle response. GTS black with app £550, XLR with app £219. So £770 in total.
A big part of me is swaying towards the racechip set up due to the app connectivity giving small changes to suit my personal preference. However I see a lot of people on the internet saying go for a 'proper' tune (revo or APR) over racechip.
Now for some extra thoughts. The APR closed carbon intake is quoted to add 13hp on their test A3. Believe it or not, the insurance company will take that at face value. This on the racechip box would put me just over the limit, but with the APR tune keeps me well within the numbers I need to be. Do I go for more power by changing less hardware, or have less power from a tune (which in turn puts less stress on the engine) and add the intake to give some extra power. Yes the tune and intake will cost more to make less power, but its roughly 10bp different so could change a few other bits eventually to make up the difference.
Going round in circles with what to do here...
Thanks in advance to anyone who helps me empty the bank account :grin:
I have a MK7.5 GTI Performance, Manual, DCC.. I put some Michelin PS4’s on last week and got an APR stage 1 map yesterday. You can feel the difference in power for sure, there’s a slight bit of wheel spin in 1st/2nd depending on the road condition. I’ve kept the standard clutch for now and I’ll just hope for the best, when the time comes to upgrade it I’ll have to do it (hoping that isn’t too soon). Power is around 300-310 now. There is 10% discount on APR maps for august btw.
Nice to here! Only difference is I don't have DCC but oh well.
Does your car have the GPF on it?
Hi again, turns out my car does have GPF.
I got my car on the dyno at VRSNorthampton recently and it's pushing 325bhp and 350 ft.lbs torque, I believe this is the low torque option. No slip on the clutch yet (fingers crossed).
I'm having a VAGSport resonator fitted today too.
Mine ended up producing the same. Quite pleased with it!
Question regarding oil temps, mine has gone from 105ish down to 86ish on normal cruising speeds... Has yours done something similar?