GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk7 => Topic started by: Mikeyd1 on 01 June 2021, 16:43
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As the tittle suggest . I need a new clutch and have it narrowed it down to these 2 , I’m not planning a remap so just need a good strong clutch but I do spend a lot of time in traffic so don’t really want a heavy peadal. Thanks
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As the tittle suggest . I need a new clutch and have it narrowed it down to these 2 , I’m not planning a remap so just need a good strong clutch but I do spend a lot of time in traffic so don’t really want a heavy peadal. Thanks
How many miles have you done on the stock clutch and why wouldn't you fit stock again as you're not planning on a remap?
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I'm not sure why you'd pay for an aftermarket clutch if you're sticking with stock power?
Crank walk is pretty rare, but I'm not sure I'd risk a clutch with more clamping force, if a stock one would do the job just fine.
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I'm not sure why you'd pay for an aftermarket clutch if you're sticking with stock power?
Crank walk is pretty rare, but I'm not sure I'd risk a clutch with more clamping force, if a stock one would do the job just fine.
23000 miles . I’m happy to go with stock clutch. I just don’t want it to fail in another 23000 miles
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I keep reading the forums and it seems everyone is saying you need a uprated clutch or it will slip again. I’ve spoke to another place on the phone who will put in stock clutch and can do a Sashs or luk , I haven’t had to change a clutch in years, this issue came out the blue and I’m just trying to make the right decisions as it’s costing around the 1000 pound mark which I’ve hat to work over time for the last month to get. Thanks
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I'm not sure why you'd pay for an aftermarket clutch if you're sticking with stock power?
Crank walk is pretty rare, but I'm not sure I'd risk a clutch with more clamping force, if a stock one would do the job just fine.
23000 miles . I’m happy to go with stock clutch. I just don’t want it to fail in another 23000 miles
Don’t you change your cars quite frequently (before you’ve clocked up 23k miles)? If so, then clutch failure probably won’t be an issue unless you’re into racing starts from rest or you regularly ride the clutch. You’ll also know how the new clutch has been treated in your ownership, whereas you don’t know the previous owner’s driving style / habits that could’ve contributed to the need for clutch replacement.
I’ve had 4 manual VW’s from new and they all covered in excess of 23k miles in my ownership and no clutch slip from any of them.
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Hi srgtd how are I mate? yeh I have changed a few cars , but would like to know if if spend a grand that the clutch will last, it’s things like this that makes me think part out but I’ve lost so much money through buying cars in the last few years, I really need to stop. Maybe it was abused by last driver I don’t know , the car didn’t show no signes of abuse when I bought it, but it also didn’t get shown any real luv either. I’m not planning any power mods so I may just go with stock then. In your opinion srgtd out of the 2 clutches Sashs or luk clutch.? The place who will do the Sashs is recommended to change the flywheel aswell and the place who wants to do the luk said it’s unlikely to caused and damage to flywheel. Thanks
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Hi srgtd how are I mate? yeh I have changed a few cars , but would like to know if if spend a grand that the clutch will last, it’s things like this that makes me think part out but I’ve lost so much money through buying cars in the last few years, I really need to stop. Maybe it was abused by last driver I don’t know , the car didn’t show no signes of abuse when I bought it, but it also didn’t get shown any real luv either. I’m not planning any power mods so I may just go with stock then. In your opinion srgtd out of the 2 clutches Sashs or luk clutch.? The place who will do the Sashs is recommended to change the flywheel aswell and the place who wants to do the luk said it’s unlikely to caused and damage to flywheel. Thanks
I’m fine thanks. Yes, changing cars frequently can be expensive. These days, I usually keep mine 4+ years, so I’ve a few years to go with my current car that I’ve had just under nine months.
Not sure if I’m the right person to be asking which of the two aftermarket clutches I’d go for as I’ve not had to have a clutch replaced since the late 1970’s, so I have no experience of either of the two you’re considering.
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No worries mate . I’m just going to go with stock,proberly the Sashs one. The crazy thing my work car will have cost less then a clutch fitted in a gti.
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OP - my manual PP was at 40k miles when I sold it with no clutch issues at all. There have been quite a lot of reported events of low mileage clutch slip like yours. I read on Skoda forum once of such an incident where the clutch was examined properly on removal to find (and this was a while back that I read it so my memory is not 100%) that the pressure plate was not 100% flat meaning reduced contact area hence the slip. Assuming that is true and given not every car suffers from it, that suggests to me that VW gets some defective batches now and then. A bit like rusty rear brake disc hubs, after nearly 5 years on my last car they were still pretty good whereas my current car has rusty hubs after 2 years. So on that basis, I would think that as long as your garage do a good job and examine the new parts checking for any issues before fitting, then oem should be okay.
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I remember that thread too, it's here if anyone wants a read:
https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/396706-vrs-tsi-clutch-slip-replacement-after-17k-miles-skoda-reluctantly-pays-out-after-proof-of-defect/?tab=comments#comment-4596366
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OP - my manual PP was at 40k miles when I sold it with no clutch issues at all. There have been quite a lot of reported events of low mileage clutch slip like yours. I read on Skoda forum once of such an incident where the clutch was examined properly on removal to find (and this was a while back that I read it so my memory is not 100%) that the pressure plate was not 100% flat meaning reduced contact area hence the slip. Assuming that is true and given not every car suffers from it, that suggests to me that VW gets some defective batches now and then. A bit like rusty rear brake disc hubs, after nearly 5 years on my last car they were still pretty good whereas my current car has rusty hubs after 2 years. So on that basis, I would think that as long as your garage do a good job and examine the new parts checking for any issues before fitting, then oem should be okay.
Thankyou watts it puts my mind at ease
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I remember that thread too, it's here if anyone wants a read:
https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/396706-vrs-tsi-clutch-slip-replacement-after-17k-miles-skoda-reluctantly-pays-out-after-proof-of-defect/?tab=comments#comment-4596366
thanks mate I’ll have a read
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I remember that thread too, it's here if anyone wants a read:
https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/396706-vrs-tsi-clutch-slip-replacement-after-17k-miles-skoda-reluctantly-pays-out-after-proof-of-defect/?tab=comments#comment-4596366
Well remembered! :laugh:
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23000 miles . I’m happy to go with stock clutch. I just don’t want it to fail in another 23000 miles
23k, ouch! Mines on 80k now and I've been waiting for it to go, but no signs yet.
I'd guess either your original was one of the incorrectly made/fitted ones VAG seemed to put out for a few years, or the previous owner didn't treat it so well. Which can be easily done, given all the springs and delay valves and swirly ma-bobs VW decided to stick in the ^&*%ing clutch line.
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Yep 23k not good but when it goes in on the 9th I’ll give a update on here. It ain’t slipping bad but is slipping in 5th 6th sometimes 4th
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I'm little under 40k miles on my 2014. The clutch seems fine most of the time but if I'm rolling up to a junction where I'm likely to stop and then go straight away I drop from 3rd or 4th gear straight into 1st so I can move off right away if it's clear. When I'm putting it unto first the gear stick judders, almost as if you're trying to put it into gear without the clutch pedal all the way down. is this normal/does anyone else have this?
And before anyone says 'You should drop down the gears one gear at a time'. This is the way I was taught to drive and the majority are now, dropping down the gears when slowing down is an older thing that isn't done much anymore
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How fast are you going when you're trying to get first? Trying to get first at more than a dead crawl is going to give the synchro a hard time.
Ideally, you don't want to try and get first unless the car is at a standstill. If you do try whilst moving, don't push it in if there is resistance, hold it against the gate and let the synchro spin up so it just drops in.
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I'm literally just rolling but have the clutch fully down. I'll try it again and make sure I'm at a full stop before putting it into first and see if that makes a difference. Thanks for the tip
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I used to sneak it partially into 2nd then into first, seemed to help.
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I'm literally just rolling but have the clutch fully down. I'll try it again and make sure I'm at a full stop before putting it into first and see if that makes a difference. Thanks for the tip
No worries, a lot of the German cars I've owned have been reluctant to go into first at the best of times. :smiley:
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No worries, a lot of the German cars I've owned have been reluctant to go into first at the best of times. :smiley:
It's usually reverse for me on my previous cars. I reverse off my drive and in my last car I had to go into first and then reverse to stop it grinding. I don't have that issue with the GTi :grin:
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Is the ECU in the car 100% definitely stock? No chance it is or ever has been remapped?
The mk7 manuals came with a sturdy riveted metal casing around the ECU where the DSG cars just had a flimsy plastic cage holding the ECU in place.
Why would VW have gone to all the trouble of having differing ECU cages if they didn’t need to? They knew darned well the manual clutches were weak and didn’t want anyone opening the ECU cage to modify the electronic brain for more power on the manual cars.
Sometimes clutch slip can be caused by people slipping the clutch and the facings getting glazed. Nowt to lose by giving the clutch a bit of a hard work out in the lower gears to try and remove the glazing which might help prolong its serviceability. The worst that can happen is for the clutch to slip more which isn’t a huge issue if you’re planning replacing it anyway.
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Is the ECU in the car 100% definitely stock? No chance it is or ever has been remapped?
The mk7 manuals came with a sturdy riveted metal casing around the ECU where the DSG cars just had a flimsy plastic cage holding the ECU in place.
Why would VW have gone to all the trouble of having differing ECU cages if they didn’t need to? They knew darned well the manual clutches were weak and didn’t want anyone opening the ECU cage to modify the electronic brain for more power on the manual cars.
Sometimes clutch slip can be caused by people slipping the clutch and the facings getting glazed. Nowt to lose by giving the clutch a bit of a hard work out in the lower gears to try and remove the glazing which might help prolong its serviceability. The worst that can happen is for the clutch to slip more which isn’t a huge issue if you’re planning replacing it anyway.I’ll check the ecu rivets today at some point when it stopped raining, all the psi in the performance monitor is reading about 30 psi under full boost which I read is about right, it did cross my mind that it might of been remapped but there is no tell tail signs that it has been.
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In reality nobody will have actually broken the rivets to access the ECU, I was using it as an example of the lengths VW went to.
The car would have either been mapped via the OBD11 port or had a tuning box added (and then removed before sale in the latter’s case).
There would be no way of knowing if it had an OBD tune unless you got it on the dyno and even that could theoretically have been easily removed.
The only tuning box I’m aware of that fits using the actual ECU loom (and therefore the cage needs removing) is from Abt and that’s “factory” warranted in Germany anyway, plus it costs an arm and both legs so almost nobody ever bought one when you can get a Racechip or DTUK for much less and they’re much easier to fit and remove.
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In reality nobody will have actually broken the rivets to access the ECU, I was using it as an example of the lengths VW went to.
The car would have either been mapped via the OBD11 port or had a tuning box added (and then removed before sale in the latter’s case).
There would be no way of knowing if it had an OBD tune unless you got it on the dyno and even that could theoretically have been easily removed.
The only tuning box I’m aware of that fits using the actual ECU loom (and therefore the cage needs removing) is from Abt and that’s “factory” warranted in Germany anyway, plus it costs an arm and both legs so almost nobody ever bought one when you can get a Racechip or DTUK for much less and they’re much easier to fit and remove.
Oh rite cheers for letting me know. I suppose there’s just no way of really knowing?
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Quick update I need a flywheel too , not having much luck, here some pics
(https://i.postimg.cc/k4V79S7W/378-A5384-5415-4-B43-A3-A5-7-BA40913-BF24.png) (https://postimg.cc/N9w3k590)
(https://i.postimg.cc/76pwLLLd/7-E6-EC5-E4-C116-4614-9271-2-CC5-AF84-DF77.png) (https://postimg.cc/wycSfgLQ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/XJPtgDSC/90544-A2-B-8-B5-B-4420-B92-D-C46-D929-DB56-A.png) (https://postimg.cc/r0ShVjpV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/KcMmHtq2/91-D17689-7-B92-4-E57-8-A20-908488-D7483-F.png) (https://postimg.cc/yW7qJ3CQ)
(https://i.postimg.cc/gk3kn38D/BA4-DE27-B-DDB8-4-E47-8-AE2-AF3-D8270-DF80.png) (https://postimg.cc/ppXtSh0h)
(https://i.postimg.cc/0NX9Ln18/BB14-DD35-DFE8-477-C-A75-B-3-C0-F71-AF8-D17.png) (https://postimg.cc/Y4gcF1SV)
(https://i.postimg.cc/QC1sKr9t/D39-C4275-9-DF0-410-C-9-DDD-4-A86-B3-F2-DA93.png) (https://postimg.cc/hQDNN60W)
(https://i.postimg.cc/HWqkY6cn/FAA60-F14-583-B-4088-9003-4-B7-F47-A633-DA.png) (https://postimg.cc/5jmVpqmW)