GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk7 => Topic started by: rwleigh on 09 January 2021, 20:49
-
Don't you just love British winters! :sad:
(https://i.postimg.cc/JhG8CttC/winter.jpg)
-
Don't you just love British winters! :sad:
One of the few benefits of lockdown for me during the winter months - I’m hardly using my car so it’s not getting plastered with road salt deposits and currently, it’s very clean.
During normal times, keeping a car looking good at this time of year is a losing battle - dark coloured cars look particularly bad.
Maybe there’s a few candidates for the ‘what detailing haven’t you done today?’ thread over on the Detailing forum board :grin:.
-
No salt on my car.
Haven't been to a petrol station since October :shocked:
-
important to give the underside and wheel arches a blast with a jet wash to remove the salt.
I think you have to accept that the car rarely looks good during this kind of weather- more about maintenance.
-
important to give the underside and wheel arches a blast with a jet wash to remove the salt.
I think you have to accept that the car rarely looks good during this kind of weather- more about maintenance.
Agree on all fronts; a) washing the underside, b) car rarely looks good in the winter c) more about maintenance. :smiley:
-
Let the rain pressure wash your car underside for you! A few blasts up the dual carriageway once the salting stops and the rain restarts in earnest again will do the trick! :whistle:
Much as I love a shiny clean car, I also love the look of a sporty car when it’s covered in road salt giving it a mean and battle ready look.
-
important to give the underside and wheel arches a blast with a jet wash to remove the salt.
Did that a couple of weeks ago before it went in to the main dealer for a major service and MOT. :smiley:
Every summer 6 month oil change gets done at my local REVO dealer too and I get under it with the XCP as well. :cool:
(https://i.postimg.cc/prq9W9hw/xcp.jpg)
-
Is this stuff any good? Presumably you just spray on and job done.
My 205 has had rustproofing done to the underside at some point but I wonder if I should be doing something periodically.
-
Is this stuff any good? Presumably you just spray on and job done.
My 205 has had rustproofing done to the underside at some point but I wonder if I should be doing something periodically.
I always used to use ACF 50 with bikes but this stuff seams to get better results in comparisons I've seen and yes you just spray it on and job done.
-
In the days before car manufacturers applied much - if any - corrosion protection to their cars on the production line and professionally applied Dinitrol and Ziebart rustproofing treatments were very popular, I used to use the DIY version - Waxoyl. I’d liberally coat the underside, under the wheel arches and wings and inject the internal cavities of any new or nearly new car I bought with Waxoyl. The strong solvent smell was pretty unpleasant for a few days after application but it seemed to do a pretty decent job of stopping corrosion. By coating the underbody suspension parts too, there was never an issue with seized or rusted bolts or fixings if any underbody parts ever needed removing / replacing. I’d usually apply a top up application after a couple of years just for good measure.
Was this DIY rustproofing effective? Well, I saw one of my previously owned cars that I’d given the Waxoyl treatment to many years after I’d sold it. The bodywork still looked in great condition, with none of the usual front wing, wheel arch lip and sill corrosion that was very common and typical of cars of a similar age. So I’d say yes, it was effective but as with most DIY corrosion protection products, how effective they are will depend on how well and thoroughly they’re applied.
-
Mr Chapple has a go at his R estate towards the end of both these vids:
https://youtu.be/Q-1ZVlDxpkw
https://youtu.be/N2DFJDR_0pg
Two different but similar products
-
Thanks to all-useful thread as I’ve been considering what to do. He mentions acf50 but has just used this normfest cavity wax product from eurocarparts- which he says is good. He also says you don’t need a ramp. I’ll manage the 205 with trolley jack though I may struggle with the golf
-
It was just prior to Highways salting the roads last year that I decided to garage my car and buy a cheap as chips reliable runabout to get me through the winter. Theres nothing worse than having an oncoming gritter lorry pass you and pebbledash your pride and joy :angry: Managed to buy and insure a 2006 Mini for the daily commute for around £1200. Bit excessive maybe but I must admit, my OCD cleaning fetish has been kept at bay knowing the road salt isn't eating my car alive. I may end up keeping it and running it into the ground just for my mental wellbeing :smiley:
-
Much as I love a shiny clean car, I also love the look of a sporty car when it’s covered in road salt giving it a mean and battle ready look.
I do believe I have now achieved this look... :grin:
-
In the days before car manufacturers applied much - if any - corrosion protection to their cars on the production line and professionally applied Dinitrol and Ziebart rustproofing treatments were very popular, I used to use the DIY version - Waxoyl. I’d liberally coat the underside, under the wheel arches and wings and inject the internal cavities of any new or nearly new car I bought with Waxoyl. The strong solvent smell was pretty unpleasant for a few days after application but it seemed to do a pretty decent job of stopping corrosion. By coating the underbody suspension parts too, there was never an issue with seized or rusted bolts or fixings if any underbody parts ever needed removing / replacing. I’d usually apply a top up application after a couple of years just for good measure.
Was this DIY rustproofing effective? Well, I saw one of my previously owned cars that I’d given the Waxoyl treatment to many years after I’d sold it. The bodywork still looked in great condition, with none of the usual front wing, wheel arch lip and sill corrosion that was very common and typical of cars of a similar age. So I’d say yes, it was effective but as with most DIY corrosion protection products, how effective they are will depend on how well and thoroughly they’re applied.
I remember my Dad doing this with any car he bought, first weekend of ownership it was up on a set of ramps and given the Waxoyl treatment, boy did it stink afterwards!
-
In the days before car manufacturers applied much - if any - corrosion protection to their cars on the production line and professionally applied Dinitrol and Ziebart rustproofing treatments were very popular, I used to use the DIY version - Waxoyl. I’d liberally coat the underside, under the wheel arches and wings and inject the internal cavities of any new or nearly new car I bought with Waxoyl. The strong solvent smell was pretty unpleasant for a few days after application but it seemed to do a pretty decent job of stopping corrosion. By coating the underbody suspension parts too, there was never an issue with seized or rusted bolts or fixings if any underbody parts ever needed removing / replacing. I’d usually apply a top up application after a couple of years just for good measure.
Was this DIY rustproofing effective? Well, I saw one of my previously owned cars that I’d given the Waxoyl treatment to many years after I’d sold it. The bodywork still looked in great condition, with none of the usual front wing, wheel arch lip and sill corrosion that was very common and typical of cars of a similar age. So I’d say yes, it was effective but as with most DIY corrosion protection products, how effective they are will depend on how well and thoroughly they’re applied.
I remember my Dad doing this with any car he bought, first weekend of ownership it was up on a set of ramps and given the Waxoyl treatment, boy did it stink afterwards!
Yes, it did have a distinctive smell for a few days afterwards. Fortunately it was short lived though and when it had gone, you could smell that new car smell again.
-
Small and frequently washes, and coat the underneath with XCP (Better than ACF-50). That's all you need really, if it starts to rust it would have rusted regardless.
-
Small and frequently washes, and coat the underneath with XCP (Better than ACF-50). That's all you need really, if it starts to rust it would have rusted regardless.
Exactly what I do, might try that stuff Volkswizard used though. Looks good stuff...
Anybody else tried it?