GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk7 => Topic started by: robtt on 11 October 2018, 16:45
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Just had first mot and car passed with flying colours . Only commment was the rear pads will need replacing in @2000 miles. So car in for service on 1st November and the VW dealer has quoted £140 inc VAT to replace them. Is that a fair price ? I have no idea .
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I have been told the same for the last 2 MOT's, they always seem to want to put on at least one advisory. I would take a look at them and see how much is left on the pad as for 2k miles to be left on them they would almost be down to the metal. The dealer wont tell you they don't need doing as it is money to them.
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If your rear discs are anything like mine, I wouldn’t waste my money changing just the pads. Normal use and 22K miles and the rear discs are badly grooved and corroded. New pads wouldn’t last long grabbing on to them! Seen comment on here about this pad/disc problem. Opinion seems to be it is a combination of poor components and the way the adaptive cruise works.
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ECP with discount codes have rear Pagid pads for £22 at the moment.
I haven't changed pads on a mk7 before, but rear caliper looks familiar to other VW.
20 mins labour a side??
You may need an OBD reader if you have any warning lights on that need turning off?
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Did the front ones on my performance pack GTI the other week. Pads cost about £45 and was an absolute doddle. I would have a look on YouTube about how to do the rears and save yourself some cash if you're at all that way inclined. Otherwise take it to an independent garage, labour charges are much cheaper!
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Doesn't the electric handbrake cause issues? I vaguely remember something about it has to be reset.
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You need VCDS to wind the pads back when changing the rear pads, it's not as simple as the fronts.
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Couple of points having just done all the brakes on my car & serviced it.
1. VW in their workbooks or at factory..DO NOT grease the pad "ears" & contact points for the rear callipers. Result?:- pads rust to the calliper brackets. They do recommend greasing the fronts in the books but again do nothing at the factory.
2. VCDS/OBD11 is required to retract the EPB motor spindle. You still have to push the pistons back in, straight push as no "wind back" mechanisms, like a manual handbrake. (you have done this effectively with the VCDS command).VCDS is required again to extend & reset.
3. I fitted all new disc/pads, & greased all the slider pins with the correct TRW PFG-100 grease...then went over all the pad ears & back plate contact points & greased with Loctite LB-8009 (1300C high temp, stainless steel safe, wash out resistant, calcium/graphite grease)….result is way more freewheeling & faster acceleration as the brakes are no longer "part on"...
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golfdave, do you have any details on how to retract the spindle using OBDeleven?
I searched the OBD forum, a general google search and came up with nothing!
Thanks.
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golfdave, do you have any details on how to retract the spindle using OBDeleven?
I searched the OBD forum, a general google search and came up with nothing!
Thanks.
Sorry I don't have OBD11...I only use VCDS so have no idea...& yes I had a quick google for it...
VCDS is this:-
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/VW_Golf_VII_(5G/AU)_ABS_Brakes
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Thanks for the reply, I will have to have a play around on OBDeleven....
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golfdave, do you have any details on how to retract the spindle using OBDeleven?
I searched the OBD forum, a general google search and came up with nothing!
Thanks.
There is an app on there to open and close the pin.
Or Brakes, Basic settings, Start Lining change mode, Click on not active and that will wind it back(you will hear it) When you have finished go to End lining change mode and click on active and it will wind them back in.