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General => The garage => Topic started by: Lee on 26 October 2003, 20:39
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My 16v runs like crap most of the time these days. It happens between 1600 - 2000 rpm it misfires, holds back, kangaroos down the road pinks and the fumes from the exhaust make you feel sick. I have been told to get new ht leads from various people but dont have a spare ?112 for a new set. I cry myself to sleep most nights boo hoo. :'( :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
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Bits are coming soon, just gotta dig em out!
sounds funny, but have you changed your rotor arm?
cured my 16v running woes.
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Yep , i would check the rotor arm and distributor cap.
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I have a brand new one sitting in my ashtray. I cant get the old one off i think its glued on if I can get it off should i glue the new one on. :-\
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I've never found it necessary to glue the rotor arms on..........certainly not for day to day driving anyway.
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How do i get the thing off rich.
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112 for a set of HT leads?
you shoppin at the wrong places
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I have fitted the new rotor arm, its still running like sh!t. I fitted a new dizzy cap about 3 months ago and that stopped the problem for a while. Is it worth getting another one to see if stops again. Also i have noticed that the part number on the cap and the dizzy dont match, the dizzy ends 205a and the cap ends something like 207p does this matter. The cap that was on it when i bought the car was 207p.. :-\
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Hello
I changed the dizzy cap today and it still drives crap. Who sells good ht leads that dont cost a million pound.
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Try taking off the distributor and making sure it spins freely. On my old car (passat 2L 16v) i had this problem until it was knackered altogether.
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Also check the hall sender in the distributor.
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yes i've been advised to check this also for my erratic 16v (in mk2 forum)
but how exactly do u check it? what am i checking for? so far all ive done is take the 3 wires connected to it off and give then clean up
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I have now been told to check my air mass sensor in the airbox. what is that and how do i check it works ok.
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I forgot to say that the car only does this once it has fully warmed up.
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have you tryed german sweadish & french (GSF) there a good place and cheep, you should have a shop ner you, if not they do mail order. or www.gsfcarparts.co.uk
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Don't use GSF , they are muppets. Always go to VW if possible, genuine parts are always the best.
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How do i check the hall sender. Should i take the plug off it and see if it runs the same.
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Lee, i've got the exact same problem as you, mine only does it also when its warm, it will miss inbetween 2800rpm - 3200rpm, and also the rev counter goes haywire sometimes bouncing all over the place. and basically run like a bag of nails - though the problem is v.intermittent
i couldnt understand why it only happened when it was warm, until i was told the hall sender is more likely to fail when warm!
i've checked & cleaned everything, so i ordered a new hall sender of eurocarparts for ?30 and im gonna fit it this weekend.
ill let you know how i get on.
Craig
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Is the engine timing right? fuel/Air mixture correct? Theres some Ht leads on ebay worth a try?
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Ok gambit let me know how it goes. Also im not sure how to check the timing my mate did the cambelt not that long ago and he lined up all the timing marks on the pulleys.
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Check the static marks, then connect up a strobe timing gun, point at the pulley to see what the ignition timing is, adjust the distributor if necessary.
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If you want to know how to test the hall sender and air flow meter, buy a bentley manual. My mates got one for mk2, but i didn't have enough time to post it all.
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I have just found out that when the car is running like sh!t if i turn it off for about 5 mins and then start it back up it runs ok. Has anyone come across this before.
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Have you checked your fuel filters?
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No i cant be arsed to check them im far to lazy i think i will just set fire to the f**king thing, anyone want to buy a recaro electric trim and a set of bbs rims, only joking, :( not
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Lee, i was told the hall sender is more likley to fail when warm, so maybe allowing it to cool for 5 mins sorts it out. on my old one the wires had become very brittle
my whole replacment dizzy cost ?78 and im hoping this will clear all my problems. its away getting the timing checked & set this morning.
so ill give you a bit more info tomorrow hopefully.
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ok mate
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Gambit,
I'd really like to know how you get on once you've fitted the hall sender ,as i think i've basically got the same problem see "kangaroo golf" post
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well i got it back yesterday and its running fine so far, had it out last night for a good bit, no hestitaitons whatsoever.
here's hoping
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how easy was it to replace the hall sender?
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it was a total bar steward
dizzy itself is easy to remove, but once out i was unable to drive the pin out of the rear of the dizzy which allows you to remove the shaft in order to get access to the hall sender. which meant i jsut bought a new complete bosch dizzy from ECP - ?70
VR6 said they deffo come out, so id advise u to take it out and take it to a garage and let them drive the pin out.
the hall sender itself is just held in by two screws once the dizzy can be taken apart
one BIG thing to do before you start is:-
scribe a line on the top of the block and the dizzy. the dizzy is on a dog leg and can be rotatated. when you put the dizzy back on you use you need to line up the lines on the dizzy & the block otherwise your timing will be out!! i found out the hard way!
hall sender is only ?7 from ECP, stuart will get you it on special order, they dont list them on the website.
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The pin is supposed to be difficult to remove, otherwise it might just fall out! Get the dizzy in a decent vice, then drive the pin out with a pin punch.
I never had to make any alignment marks as the dizzy sits in a slot on the end of the cam and can only go in one way.
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Gambit,
did you have oil leaking from your Dizzy?
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Oil leaks on the 16v dist are common. If you have it striped I would recomend replacing the shaft seal. VW didn't list a seal a while back, but if you take the dist body and shaft to a bearing/seal specialist, they will be able to match one up.
Best to mark the dist body in relation to the head befor removing it , as it is slotted. vr6 is correct in that the drive for the dist is offset so can only go in one way.
Steve. ;)
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The pin is supposed to be difficult to remove, otherwise it might just fall out! Get the dizzy in a decent vice, then drive the pin out with a pin punch.
I never had to make any alignment marks as the dizzy sits in a slot on the end of the cam and can only go in one way.
aye the shaft sits in a slot, but the actual dizzy itself is on a dog leg and can be rotated
it even tells u in the haynes to mark the rotation before u take it off
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Gambit,
did you have oil leaking from your Dizzy?
yeah it did, seal was knackered
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The pin is supposed to be difficult to remove, otherwise it might just fall out! Get the dizzy in a decent vice, then drive the pin out with a pin punch.
I never had to make any alignment marks as the dizzy sits in a slot on the end of the cam and can only go in one way.
aye the shaft sits in a slot, but the actual dizzy itself is on a dog leg and can be rotated
it even tells u in the haynes to mark the rotation before u take it off
Before or after dismantling it? There is no need to make any marks if you replace the dizzy for a new one, as there is only one fitted position.
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i need a pic of a 16v dizzy on the block & i will show you the sliders on the dizzy that the bolts go thru.
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The dizzy goes on the head ;)
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Oh yes i think i know what ya mean now Gambit, the slotted thing. There is no need to mark it, as long as it is quite close to what is was, the ignition control unit controls the ignition timing.
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And if you were really worried about doing it then you could take the cap off and line up the timing mark with the rotor arm. Haynes advice is to mark everything cos they assume everyone is a beginner with little or no knowledge of how the car works.
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aye thats what i was on about
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aye ;)