GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: Reebzluke on 30 August 2017, 20:42
-
Hi there,
So I bought a 1.8t for next to nothing. Guy was totally honest said it has been sitting for months and probally got a few porblems, but never the less the wife and I bundled into the "good" car to brave the 60 mile trip to go and have a look.
Got there and after half an hour poking around followed by a few trips round the block I came back with this.
(https://preview.ibb.co/f6YmCQ/IMG_3145.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/kqetsQ/IMG_3146.jpg)
(https://preview.ibb.co/eLBpXQ/IMG_3148.jpg)
Now I was aware of the knock which after inspection I put down to ARB bushes so I will ignore for the moment.
Got stuck in two hour traffic on the way home... not a single problem I was pleased as punch.
However...
As soon as the traffic started to clear while travelling at about 30mph I accelerated upto 70. The huge grin on my face with the pull (stage 2 remap I am told) was rudley interupted by a loud beep and the dash saying oill press. I brought the revs down and it went off again. It stayed off during "normal low rev driving" I though ok its been sat, its probaby just crud on the sensor or something... I accelerated again and over 4k revs it cam back on again.
So I drove home at a normal pace (low revs) and it didnt come back on.
But
after a fare way on the motorway with very little braking as I cam off the slip road to a junction I noticed the brake pedal had sunk. Only working when pushed mostly to the floor.
So I CAREFULLY drove home, and pulled open the bonnet. Now I notice that the idle is a bit lumpy (ery slightly judders when sitting in the car, which I think is made worse by the ridiculously loudexhaust) The Maf sensor was obviously nearly new (and receipt). I cleaned out the BCM filter, which had a small forest and about a kilo of compost in it, and now the engine seems to run slightly better, but still that slight judder.
I checked as many of the pipes for splits etc and all I can find is this.... Now I am no mechanic... just a guy with youtube, but isnt a lot of the brake pressure taken from a vacuum pipe? Is it this one coming from brake cylinder? The one that looks manky with gaffer tape holding it together?
(https://thumb.ibb.co/mJda6k/IMG_3156.jpg)
Also could it be the PCV valve? Could this effect the idle ?Fluid full etc.
Do you think the oil pressure problem is switch or the oil pick up pipe?
AND.... The passenger door will no longer open from the outside... tried the inside and out jiggling thing but no luck,,, Car will need an mot shortly and doubt they will even look at it if they can open the door?
Other than that fallen in love with the car, so any help would be gratfully appreciated.
Thank you
-
Could well be a vac issue especially if the power to the brakes is lost and the engine is running lumpy.
For your oil pressure, if you can get a code reader, check to see if the signal to the pressure sensor is intermittent. Otherwise it could be the pickup, or level. Check the oil level and it may be worth doing an oil and filter change in the meantime to see if things improve as it may be related to oil quality and age.
The stuck door, sometimes if someone has had to repair the door lock module, if the torx bolt which is accessed at the edge of the door is too tight, it can restrict the door from opening from the outside. If from the inside you can get the door open, then pop the cap off and slacken the torx a little. This torx if too tight grips the steel cable which goes to the outside handle. Look along the open edge if you can get it open, around the same level as the outer handle.
-
So my mate and I changed rear pads and disks, the front looks nearly new but bled all round. Changed roll bar bushes old ones where knackered.... the bar was actually touching the bracket.
Half way through an oil change and the filter is stuck.... literally stuck. I used a chain wrench and it just bent the filter rather than loosening.
Do will have to try in the morning.
Thanks for your help with handle.... that's sorted now :) a long but productive day
-
So got the oil filter off and started to replace oil.
As this car is the gift that keeps giving while checking the oil level...: the dipstick housing has snapped in two places.... do you think this could be the cause of oil pressure warning?
-
So got the oil filter off and started to replace oil.
As this car is the gift that keeps giving while checking the oil level...: the dipstick housing has snapped in two places.... do you think this could be the cause of oil pressure warning?
They snap all the time the pressure warning is probably a blocked pickup pipe
-
I think so too.
Still getting a soft brake pedal, but the brakes still work well... if that makes sense. The pedal is nowhere near the floor either. I am wondering if just being picky as used to driving our 17plate as a main car?
-
I think so too.
Still getting a soft brake pedal, but the brakes still work well... if that makes sense. The pedal is nowhere near the floor either. I am wondering if just being picky as used to driving our 17plate as a main car?
Brakes might have something to do with sitting up for months too
-
I am sure I read somewhere once that a lbrake load valve or something similar could cause this?
-
Ok so I can't get a dipstick housing in time for not tomorrow... I have put a bung over the hole .... do they need to probe for emissions? Or can they go on engine temp?
-
Mot done... one advisory tyre will need changing soon, also oil pressure warning doesn't seem to be coming on since oil change, which is a bonus.
I can still hear a rattling so not sure what that is, but overall good job car cost next to nothing 120 quid on parts and a bit of elbow grease got a car I really like with a years ticket.
-
Strongly recommend you drop the sump and clean the pickup pipe, pretty easy job and will save you an engine rebuild if there is a problem in there. I know you've just done an oil change, but if it's been sat then it's no bad thing to flush it. Correct oil is £20 delivered off ebay..
-
Yeah I am definitely going to do it, I need to find out what the knocking is as well.....plus none of the speakers are working which makes the knocking more annoying.
-
So I am driving home from work trying to work out where the knocking is coming from. It seems to change every time I think I found it. All bushes and balloons drop links etc look fine
However
https://preview.ibb.co/cSJpda/IMG_3183.jpg
On top of filter housing... surely should be a bolt there?
-
Does anyone know what this is for? Behind the headunit. My speakers are not working is this related?
(https://preview.ibb.co/gW3pda/IMG_3180.jpg)
-
Knock found, drop link bolt, I only undone one in order to get the bush out. It's obviously threaded won't do up and won't undo. I managed to tighten it a bit, and the knocking has stopped. Obviously going to need to change it and the wishbone at some point.
-
Perseverence pays off...eventually. :smiley:
-
So I connected an old speaker to the head unit, and doesn't work on any of the outputs... but does on the rca.... head unit is bust... something else to get at the weekend. So used to driving without sounds now I was driving the other car without the radio on, without realising.
-
Does anybody know what size the bolt is that screws the droplink to the wishbone? Rather not have to go vw if possible.
-
Does anybody know what size the bolt is that screws the droplink to the wishbone? Rather not have to go vw if possible.
Vw won't be expensive :smiley:
-
Possibly not, but I don't have one very close to me unfortunately
-
Possibly not, but I don't have one very close to me unfortunately
SEAT, Audi or Skoda?
-
That's true, does anybody know the part number?
-
That's true, does anybody know the part number?
Bolt part number N 104 176 01 (M10 x 50mm)
Nut part number N 102 613 02
-
Cool mate thank you
-
So I used a prybar while undoing to bolt and finally got it out.... it was bent and thread gone in places. I cable tied the drop link to the roll bar, stuck the wheel back on and went for a drive. Silent... not a single knock rattle or anything.
Hoping the thread is ok on the wishbone so I can just get a new bolt
-
So I used a prybar while undoing to bolt and finally got it out.... it was bent and thread gone in places. I cable tied the drop link to the roll bar, stuck the wheel back on and went for a drive. Silent... not a single knock rattle or anything.
Hoping the thread is ok on the wishbone so I can just get a new bolt
That's a recipe for disaster :smiley:
-
Why is it a recipe for disaster?
-
Why is it a recipe for disaster?
A cable tie
-
It's only to hold the drop link out of the way. It's not to connect it or hold it on or anything.
-
It's only to hold the drop link out of the way. It's not to connect it or hold it on or anything.
I'm sure Vw fitted the drop link for a reason but you think it's ok to drive your car without it even attached :grin:
-
Jeez I only drove round the block to see if the knocking stopped. Bolt fitted today... droplink now safely attached. Jobs a good one.