GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk7 => Topic started by: Sootchucker on 06 March 2017, 07:27
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OK all, following on from a recent thread, I decided to buy my first ever dash cam (and very well priced Thinkware F770). It's coming today and ordered with the hard wired kit (as I hate cables trailing everywhere).
My question is simple enough (I think). Can anyway tell me the fuse numbers where I can tap into a permanent live and a switched live please ( I have a couple of "add a circuit" fuse tappers ready).
Also, am I right in that the main fuse box is behind the glove box which is accessed by releasing the two small tabs on the inner top edge and then just laying it down - is it actually that easy ?
Thanks in advanced.
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OK all, following on from a recent thread, I decided to buy my first ever dash cam (and very well priced Thinkware F770). It's coming today and ordered with the hard wired kit (as I hate cables trailing everywhere).
My question is simple enough (I think). Can anyway tell me the fuse numbers where I can tap into a permanent live and a switched live please ( I have a couple of "add a circuit" fuse tappers ready).
Also, am I right in that the main fuse box is behind the glove box which is accessed by releasing the two small tabs on the inner top edge and then just laying it down - is it actually that easy ?
Thanks in advanced.
Yes the fusebox is located behind the glovebox. It's easy to access but take a look at the first part of vidamn's thread here which tells you exactly how to remove it.
http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=261543.0
Don't know if it's of any help but this is how my dashcam was hardwired in (Blackvue) by the installer.
(https://s12.postimg.org/sxxt4wm0t/IMG_0992.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/pebvf3jax/)
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Hate to say this, Rebecca, but those wires look a bit bodged in to me. Looks like they've just wedged them in with the fuses, which is not the best arrangement.
If Sootchucker posts some pics of his fuse tappers you will see what I mean.
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Judging by the pic, the system I use is similar, but I also installed an 'on/off' switch which sits in one of the spare positions on the dash...allows a bit more choice.
Been using it for almost 16 months with no problems.
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Hate to say this, Rebecca, but those wires look a bit bodged in to me. Looks like they've just wedged them in with the fuses, which is not the best arrangement.
If Sootchucker posts some pics of his fuse tappers you will see what I mean.
You are not the first to say that, but I've not had a single issue with since installation, and a couple of others that did their own install (same system) and used splitters have had issues and have actually redone it as per the above and all is ok (so far). At the end of the day, it was done by Blackvue installers so if the car blows up I know who to blame (if I survive!).
At the end of the fuse box sites the control unit (Power Magic Pro) which has the on/off switch and adjustment for voltage, duration of parking mode, etc. So very easily accessible as you just pop off the end trim panel to access.
(https://s28.postimg.org/qk42d2ybx/blackvue.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/soofe5zyh/)
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No, it won't blow up and will work as well as, just not as "pro" as you might expect a "pro" job to be, that's all!
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No, it won't blow up and will work as well as, just not as "pro" as you might expect a "pro" job to be, that's all!
I know where you are coming from and I agree, but it is what it is! :smiley:
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Thought I would reuse an existing thread instead of creating a new one.
I have brought a new dash cam (BlackVue DR750s-2ch) and am having issues installing the Power Magic Pro Unit.
I wired it as follows:
(Red) Switched power to F37 and used a tap connector with the original 10amp fuse
(Yellow) Constant power to F7 and used a tap connector with the original 10amp fuse
When turnning the power on, I got an error relating to Cornering lighting, so put everything back as it was.
Am I using the right connections?
Below urls show the original fuse layout, attempted installation and fuse diagram from my manual.
https://ibb.co/f8p8GR
https://ibb.co/m0bcAm
https://ibb.co/fdVti6
https://ibb.co/b75hbR
https://ibb.co/eb4VVm
Any help would be much appreciated.
Cheers
James
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Yes, I was unsure about the wiring. So for £10 I let Halfords do all the work and they did a fantastic job, all the trim back in place and no visible wires.
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Thought I would reuse an existing thread instead of creating a new one.
I have brought a new dash cam (BlackVue DR750s-2ch) and am having issues installing the Power Magic Pro Unit.
I wired it as follows:
(Red) Switched power to F37 and used a tap connector with the original 10amp fuse
(Yellow) Constant power to F7 and used a tap connector with the original 10amp fuse
When turnning the power on, I got an error relating to Cornering lighting, so put everything back as it was.
Am I using the right connections?
Below urls show the original fuse layout, attempted installation and fuse diagram from my manual.
https://ibb.co/f8p8GR
https://ibb.co/m0bcAm
https://ibb.co/fdVti6
https://ibb.co/b75hbR
https://ibb.co/eb4VVm
Any help would be much appreciated.
Cheers
James
It looks like there is only one fuse in each piggyback fuse holder, have you put the fuse in the correct side? The original and new circuit need to be protected with a separate fuse each.
I'm at work at the mo and not in my Golf but I'll see what fuse way I used tomorrow. My dashcam is only linked up to a switched supply though
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Cheers for the reply MB,
The fuse taps came with 20 amp fuses, but I did not add them as I didn't think I needed to.
I also put the original fuse in the top slot, with the main pins/fins pointing down, should they be in the bottom slot and should I have added the 20 amp fuse as well?
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The way piggybacks work is you put the original fuse in the bottom holder to make the original circuit and your new fuse in the top holder to make the wire of the piggyback live, if your not putting the original fuse in the bottom holder then the original circuit cannot go live, plus you should NOT use the 20a fuse for a dash cam! You should find out what current is drawn when the dash cam is in use and use a fuse rated at the next amp above that (if it draws 0.5a use a 1a, if it draws 1a use a 2a etc) as a fuse is there to protect the wiring, even though the piggyback is rated at 20a the wire your connecting in it might not be (defenatly in the case of a dash cam, phone charger etc) this is a problem I see with the picture of the fuse box, i cannot see any fuses in the wires pushed under the fuses, if the wires are lower current than the fuses and something goes wrong with the box and it draws more current than the wires can handle but less than the fuse rating then the wiring will melt and maybe set fire, plus the fact if the unit does go short then the vehicles fuse will blow and take out the circuit on the car (hope the fuses are not for a safety feature!) this scares me as it was supposed to be a professional installation!!!!
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Thank you for your help and advice.
This was not done by a professional installer, it was done myself and when I ran into an issue i asked for help :-)
Cheers for confirming how to use the fuse taps, looking on the web at other installations some people don't add the extra fuses, but have gone and got some 2 amp fuses and put them at the top and the original ones at the bottom :-)
All plugged in now and working fine, once I figured out I need to re-thread the cameras power cable via the coin slot.
More pictures on the below URLs so completion.. :laugh:
https://ibb.co/iS5oGR
https://ibb.co/gd6vwR
https://ibb.co/mBfcAm
https://ibb.co/gZQYi6
Now onto fitting the rear camera.
Thanks
James
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Glad you got it sorted and glad you put the right fuses in
I was commenting on the first reply you got about the professional installation 😉
Oh the only other thing is you should make sure the piggyback is in the right way round, it shouldn't really matter if your fuse is smaller than the original fuse unless your using a lot of current