GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: skunkmunkey3000 on 15 February 2017, 20:57
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Hi guys,
Sorry to join up and instantly start asking questions, I've done quite a bit of googling on this but can only find part answers to my question.
I seem to have the usual suspect ignition switch problem - the stereo stays on when you switch the car off, the lights behind the heater controls don't seem to work and the clock/mileage etc on the dash stay on when I take the key out. However a previous owner has bypassed the issue to an extent and fitted a hidden start button. I don't mind the button too much ( you still need the key to start the car).
I've looked through the various guides for fitting the switch and it all seems pretty straightforward however is this then gonna be screwed up by the start button? Also the car has an aftermarket immobiliser fitted that doesn't currently work - I have a random key fob in the ashtray and a button thing on the dash to press it up against (looks like an old Cobra system I had on an old 8v years ago), is this likely to affect things?
Does anyone have any suggestions on if this is worth trying to rectify or if I'm better just to live with it as it is?
Sorry for the huge first post, hi by the way ! :-p
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The start button will id have thought be wired into the back of the ignition switch plug. So if you change the switch you could just cut the button out.
The alarm may have been bypasses because of the ignition switch problem. They may have thought it was the alarm interfering some how
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I'll get a switch and have a look - presume worst case scenario, I just have to put it back to it's current state. Should an R reg 16v have an immobiliser as standard, the guy I got it from says he doesn't think it has a chip in the key but I thought the later ones had some factory fitted security.
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They should have a chip in the key yes. Around the ignition there should be a black halo with some wires. Thats for the chip with key
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its not hard to replace the switch but dont buy a cheap replacement as they notoriously fail.
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mine had a button fitted, was delighted to bin it when I finally worked out it was the ignition switch.
2 ways to replace column in or column out, cant remember what I did but it was the non VW way - it needing a small jewellers screwdriver. Topran brand switch was fine.
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Thanks for the responses. I've got a few other bits to sort out on the car but will get round to replacing the switch eventually and let you know how I get on :-)
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Finally got round to replacing the switch today, getting the steering column back into the union joint was a right PITA but anyway it's now all done. Unfortunately it hasn't really solved anything - the radio still stays on when the car is turned off and the fuel gauge still won't recognise a full tank until the battery has been disconnected.
Also now have a new problem of having the airbag warning light now showing up - presume this is my own fault as the battery was connected/disconnected multiple times, sometimes with the air bag connected and other times without. Is there a way to reset this to fix the problem (without just removing the bulb)?
As much as changing the switch hasn't really done anything the old one was pretty knackered so guess it would have given up sooner or later. I'm just hoping I don't have to go back near that wiring again - it was a right state. The starter button wires are spliced into wires coming off the plug into the ignition switch - the immobiliser has wires everywhere even though it doesn't seem to do anything - all just looks like a bit of a bodge job!
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Also now have a new problem of having the airbag warning light now showing up - presume this is my own fault as the battery was connected/disconnected multiple times, sometimes with the air bag connected and other times without. Is there a way to reset this to fix the problem (without just removing the bulb)?
find someone with Vagcom in your area, it'll only take a few minutes to reset..
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Thank you, do you know of anyone Suffolk way who could help?
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You might have done the squib in the steering wheel if airbag lights come on.
My radio use to come on by its self. Turned out ign live and perminant live were touching causing it to do as it pleased
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Sounds like your problem is lurking in the wiring.
Consider paying for an hour or 2 with a good mobile auto electrician, they can usually get to the bottom of the problem.
If you ask them to delete the aftermarket immobiliser, you should still have the ECU immobiliser.
I think you are correct, the fault will have been generated by connecting the battery without the air bag connected.
The air bag fault is one of the safety items, along with ABS, that stays on even if the fault is fixed.
Not all fault code readers can clear those faults, the only sure way of sorting as Hardmonkeys said is vagcom
-The auto electrician my have a good enough reader or vagcom itself.
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Thank you, do you know of anyone Suffolk way who could help?
I don't mate, I'm in Dorset, if you fancy a trip to the coast, I'll happily do it for you, bit far mind you
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Thanks guys. Would this be something that the lite version of VCDS could do? I've got a cheapy Chinese cable on order and will have a play around once that arrives to see what it can do.
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A cheap hand held scanner thats vag equiped would read the airbac so vcd light will read the airbag fault
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Thanks guys. Would this be something that the lite version of VCDS could do? I've got a cheapy Chinese cable on order and will have a play around once that arrives to see what it can do.
Should do
A cheap hand held scanner thats vag equiped would read the airbac so vcd light will read the airbag fault
Yes - they can read the fault, but the majority wont clear this critical fault
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Just a little update on this - My Chinese special cable finally arrived and after a little bit of dicking around I managed to get it working. I've cleared the airbag codes and the light has gone away.
I thought I'd look further into the handbrake light being on (When investigating I found a previous owner had removed the ABS light). Checked the usual things, fluid and switch etc but no luck and the light remained on. I looked up the codes and it's showing all 4 ABS sensors and the 01276 code. I tried removing them but they wouldn't clear so have something in there to fix. However since the handbrake light only showed up recently, does this mean all four sensors have gone at once and if so, does that mean it's more likely to be the ECU? I've ordered a new airbag/ABS light unit so when that arrives I can see if the ABS light has actually been on the whole time. In the meantime does anyone have any suggestions on this?
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Could be all the sensors need replacing...time consuming, but not expensive
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Just to add a little more to this, I got my replacement Airbag/ABS light unit today and got it installed. When I first switch the car on the ABS light come on and then switches off as it's supposed to but then comes back on as if there's a fault but switches off when driving - only to then come back on when stationary again. Got me a bit confused as I would have thought if it was picking up a fault it would be on all the time and not just when idling in neutral?
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Change the sensors!
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My a4 occasionally pulls a abs light and its when the wheel speed is to far out.
Can also be gap difference
Of just dirty pick up rings