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Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: turfandy on 12 December 2016, 09:01
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Hi, hope someone can help, I've had an 8v gti for 4 years now, last 2 years its been sat in my garage, it started and ran well beforehand, took it off road to sort out headlining (still havent done), drivers seat retrim (still havent done) and doors needed respray from a poor job from a previous owner (guess what) spent time keeping on top of an MG ZS180 and Jeep. Any way the MG has gone and I want to get the Golf back. I charged the battery and emptied the old fuel out, put fresh fuel in. It started first time, then died after 3 or 4 secs, tried again exactly the same, tried starting with foot down, same again. Cleaned out the throttle body and ISV, new plugs, oil and filter change. Tried again, now runs for about 6 secs then dies. Can hear the fuel pump priming, the ISV buzzing. Will start every time, then just dies again, longest its ran is about 10 secs, sounds good till it dies. Any help appreciated
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Go and see Charlie Smith at Lower Corve Street Garage in Ludlow. There's nothing he doesn't know about these cars. He sorted out my 16V earlier this year.
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I'd try connecting 12volts directly to the fuel pump to make it run permanently and see if that fixes your problem.
I can't remember offhand which is the fuel pump relay, but if you listen to and feel the relays (under the right hand side of the steering column) you can feel which ones operate when the ignition is switched on. Find which one is for the fuel pump (unplug to check the pump doesn't run), then jump the two big contacts with a short piece of wire. The pump should run constantly. Now keep your fingers crossed and start the engine.
That could identify your problem.
Edit...Fuel pump relay is likely to be relay No 18, bottom right of the relays.
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If its ce2 its bottom right for the relay ce1 isnt... I know if your running ce1 you can just flip the relay upside down and itll bridge it for you.
If fuel pumps priming relays atleast working to let the pump prime.
Is this k-jet of digi fuel management?
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Thanks for your help, it's a digi, will have another go tomorrow with the relays and fuel pump and see what happens
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Tried running a wire across the relay points, can hear the pump running constantly but it still cuts out after 6-10 secs, put a new ECU in, still the same. Cleaned the earthing points, am I missing something stupid. Thanks for any help
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Hasnt got an aftermarket immobilizer has it?
If you olf the throttle open will it run
Unplugged the maf and tried that
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Hi thanks for that, I don't think there's any other immobiliser fitted, tried unplugging the MAF, still the same, splutters to the usual stop, I'm up to about 10 secs now though. Starts with throttle open runs for about the same and then dies away.
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Not sure if this helps or not but Had another go with someone else starting it, just before it cuts out it sucks the sides of the pipe between the throttle body and filter together then dies as though it's trying suck in loads of air. If I take this off it cuts out the same but obviously nothing to see. Could an immobiliser do this? Thanks again for any help. Still sounds really good for those few seconds.
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You've not called Charlie yet then?
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Take the airfilter out. Or off see if it still does it. Had a rangerover in that had a mostly blocked air filter and that use to suck the intake pipe closed because it couldnt get the air.
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Yes, tried taking the pipe off completely, still does the same not connected to the air filter, just that there's nothing to see. Haven't been in touch with the garage yet as can't get it there at the moment.
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Bit of a stab in the dark but are all the timing marks lining up correctly?
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Hopefully may have sorted it, won't know till I get it back together in a couple of days. I took the rocker cover off and the breather gauze was completely blocked with solidified oil, if it's not that it's something else crossed off the list. Only down side is one of the cam cover bolts was already sheared off inside the head. I've read that if you put a rubber gasket on you have to change the bolts/studs, how do the old ones come out.
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Use a stud extract or 2 nut locked together should pull the studs out. Ive never changed either when changing a rocker gasket ever... But doesnt mean its not suppose to be done
Thats sound like it could do it as the engine cant breath sufficiently.
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Take the air filter out and try it? Or it could be the exhaust pipe is blocked?
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I've read that if you put a rubber gasket on you have to change the bolts/studs
You will need to change them, as the cork studs have a collar wheras the rubber studs are slightly longer and are smooth
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Any idea how the old ones come out
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Nearly ready to try again, cam cover cleaned out, painted, rubber gasket and new studs on, new breather gasket, ran out of time to finish putting everything back together. Try it tomorrow. If it runs then can start on sump gasket.
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Still the same, gutted.
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Have you checked ign timing? And actual timing make sure its not a tooth out
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Wish I'd have thought of that lemski 😜
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Wish I'd have thought of that lemski 😜
Its like i read it somewhere :laugh:
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Sorted, it was the MAF, it had corroded slightly and was stuck shut. Freed it up and it ran almost perfectly. Can now get on with the things I took it off the road to do. Thanks again for your help
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Lol we were both wrong!!
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Great news. I bet you're happy with having fixed that!
That explains the rubber induction pipe being sucked in.