GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: Jasikasisback on 06 May 2016, 18:54
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Recently had my car fail on "excessively corroded brake lines"... Hmmm if excessively corroded they should be leaking
Anyway...I have yet to own a car where the brake lines failed...and I lived in Canada where salt kills cars...they rot out and there are holes in the floor but brake lines never failed...
So now am taking a 20/year old golf for MOT and want to know if I can paint the lines on metallic paint...the lines look OK on this car but again the tester can just say...hey they are no good.
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So is it OK just to clean and paint them with Hammerite?
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If we take a car to mot and theres a little corrosion we clean it up with a wire brush.
You can paint or underseal them in the UK but it can be advised because they cant see the condition of them.
If they clean up alright after a wire brush I cant see how they can fail them.
Also ive had a metal brakeline go after it had gone through an mot by the previous owner. It went down a hill.
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So it can be an advisory if you paint the lines with rust deterring paint like hammerite.
But not a fail...
I never had brake lines go on me in Canada on any car and.the rust was massive..I mean cars just rust away in less than a decade if you drive it during the winter...no amount of waxoil etc will save it.
Usually people have two cars, a summer one.and a winter one.
The way they salt the roads here the last few years (even.were.salting the roads a.few.weeks back in the M25, why I don't know as temperatures never.reached.zero) cars will rust out quicker..
When it is cold they put little salt...and.save it for April
I think the MOT overall is abused by most testers...it has made me.look over the whole car now before.the MOT..
I have checked everything on the golf, and I hope it doesn't fail...
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Its mot testers descretion, but ive only had them advised as they cant see if its corroded. Same with if the brake lines are under covers or reruted in through the car
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My luck is that I get really strict testers...they could probably fail a brand new car....after all if something is excessively corroded...then it should leak...have a hole...if not then it is not excessive...this is totally subjective
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Well I can tell you that we have had a car go to one ppace and fail on something and took itto another and it failed on something totally different.
So what one test says is excessive another may think is only worth advising.
Have you got a picture of the brake lines your on about
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Will take video later today
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Failed MOT on faded number plate and insufficient nearsided wiper...will sort in next few days
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sounds like an overly critical tester to me, take it else where next time
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He passed the car..the rear plate had mold in between the letters...how do I get the old plate off? How do I get the yellow things off on top of the screws...or do I have to destroy them??
The wiper blade needs replacing anyway...assume that ECP best place to get a replacement pair??carparts4less?
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you're literally answering all your own questions here.
the yellow caps are throwaway, and new ones are usually included along with screws when you buy new plates.
wipers are a little bit cheaper from ebay than the likes of euro etc.
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Pound shop sell wipers. Anywhere. But as above you have answered your own questions
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New problem...the bolt sheared off that held the number plate on as the head snapped off...can I just use sticky pads to attach the plate and will that damage the paint?
Iam a bit hesitant to drill the bolt out as I took the plastic off the inside of the boot lid thinking the other end of the bolt would be sticking out but instead discovered that the number plate bolt holder appears to be a self enclosed metal casing...didnt try to screw this out ..not sure that would be a good idea as mightdamage the paint..
Any advice aporeciated as notsure the sticky adhesive is a good idea....
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Can't get plate off first and then grip remnants of screw with pliers?
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No tried that...the bolt sheared off almost level with the bolt holder thing...couldnt get mole grips onto it..looks like previous owner really wanted to be theft proof....funnily enough got the plate off in one piece.....suppose I could put the new plate on and then glue the bolt head on with epoxy or metal glue...should hold in place and no risk of damaging the paint or structural integrity of the boot lid...my luck.the bolt would hold and the whole bolt holder would disintegrate or worse yet cause a hole in the boot lid...
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Sure you can't break it off without damaging boot lid, would think you can get parts individually?
(http://www.vagcat.com/p/B121/827200.png)
357827998A
insert nut
8X10MM /
- N 0139713
oval head panel screw
B4,8X22 /
- D 185400A2
liquid sealant
10ML /
33 861877399
grommet
9 /
34
key / see illustration:
837-00 /
35 N 01023911
hexagonal head bolt
M8X18 /
(35) N 90440701
hexagonal head bolt
M6X15 /
36 N 90107604
washer
8,2X18X2 /
(36) N 01166615
washer
6,4X18X1,6 /
37 171853919
sealing washer
/
(37) 803955637
sealing washer
21/4X1,5MM /
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I've broken more stuff on cars unintentionally then I care to remember. Just want to sort this plate and the wipers and get the car through the MOT...might get those new style silicone wipers see if they make a difference....
;http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-MK3-MK4-1992-02-Aero-FLAT-Wiper-Blades-21-19-/280844460560?hash=item4163a26210:g:8FwAAOxyGqZSZx7h
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Double side tape should be OK. I personally once siliconed a rear plate on after I sorted a boot and didnt want it rusting again.
When I pulled plate to spray car there wasnt any damage to paint
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the bolt sheared off almost level with the bolt holder thing...couldnt get mole grips onto it..looks like previous owner really wanted to be theft proof....funnily enough got the plate off in one piece.....suppose I could put the new plate on and then glue the bolt head on with epoxy or metal glue...should hold in place and no risk of damaging the paint or structural integrity of the boot lid
why do you want to glue the heads back on?
i never mechanically fix plates. double sided foam tape works a treat and no ugly screw heads or caps.
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I'm just going to stick it on with sticky pads and leave it...I hope it doesn't fall off and that the MOT tester will say that is good enough to pass the MOT...
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Car passed and good for 12 months..think I might just sell this on to someone who can put it to good use..
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i had to scrap my first mk3, failed on corroded brake pipes along with a few other things, managed to fix everything else but the it failed on brake pipes the second time after i cleaned them up.
Couldnt afford the 400 quid + quote from the garage so off to the crusher she went :cry: