GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: hardmonkeys on 24 April 2016, 20:30
-
Hi all, Some of you may have been following my project thread, when I converted an
AGG auto into a ABF manual, I had it on the road last year for 3-4mths before I burnt the main loom out, so I bought a new loom, and started this week to replace it, So, all was going well, until today I went to start it.... It didn't!
It tries too, and will start with some persuasion with a little throttle, but is rough as!! And running Very rich, as soon as i let go of the throttle it cuts out immediately.. I'm going to try changing the leads and plugs tomorrow, see if that helps
The ISV is buzzing when the ignition is on, never heard this before, or never noticed it before, should it do this?
While the engine was out, I did remove the inlet manifold to clean up underneath...I put it all back together as previous, I replaced the gasket too, I probably shouldn't of touched it in hindsight lol
Any ideas?
-
Overfuelling wise.
Temp sender, maf or lambda id have said. Did you hear enhine running before you removed it?
Also if you scan it any codes
-
Yep, I ran it last year before the loom melted. And I used the donor car for a while before I stripped it for the engine and box.
It came up with a few codes, I didn't write them down like a fool, one of the was engine speed sensor, will check the inlet tomorrow. I replaced the gasket with new..admittedly aftermarket, tried VW but it's been discontinued.
-
you may have damaged the engine speed sensor / crank sensor cable whilst doing the transplant. They go very brittle over the years.
I replaced mine a few weeks back, after similar starting and running issues like you've described.
-
I was going to say that crank sensor wiring or sensor seems like the issue
-
Will have a ganders later 👍🏻
-
Just done a scan,
It's come up with
00513 - Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Implausible Signal
And
00740 - Cylinder 1 recognition sensor. (G145) No signal
Figured this is the Engine Speed Sensor
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m318/hardmonkeys/9B1CB551-671E-4414-AFD9-8CA5BC7E27F2.jpg) (http://s107.photobucket.com/user/hardmonkeys/media/9B1CB551-671E-4414-AFD9-8CA5BC7E27F2.jpg.html)
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m318/hardmonkeys/CE567B6D-83C7-4E7C-89A6-49DE2C807340.jpg) (http://s107.photobucket.com/user/hardmonkeys/media/CE567B6D-83C7-4E7C-89A6-49DE2C807340.jpg.html)
New sensor then.
-
ISV buzzing is a good thing.
as long as your engine idles when warm you dont need to worry about it
-
It's not starting mate, only with some throttle, When I hold the throttle down it keeps running but very rough, if I let go it cuts out. The wires to the crank position sensor are frayed, so I have a new sensor to fit tomorrow.
-
Yes - Crank sensor will stop it starting.
You were asking about the ISV in your first post.
If you can't feel it vibrate with ignition on you have a problem -as yours is buzzing like a jack rabbit you should be ok here
-
Thanks mate. I hope to get started at some Point today, had to take my MK5 into main dealer today, was only going to be a wait job, but they are having problems, so they've given me a loan car to get back home, now I'm in two minds wherever to get started or not, in case they call me to go pick up the motor.
-
Fitted it, still nothing, not even attempting to start now. I'm off to pick up my mk5 now, so will have another look in a while if this rain holds off :rolleyes:
-
Went out and scanned the car, no faults, but under measuring block, it says it's -40c lol
New coolant temp sensor?
-
It would be chucking in as much fuel as possible at that so could well be. Does it still run with your foot on the pedal or doesnt even attempt to run now
-
Nothing at all now.
-
when you say replaced the loom - is that the engine loom?
Are you sure you had found the cause of the burn out and any other damage?
One area of loom on the ABF engine that really gets abuse is the section going to the throttle position sensor -that whole branch of loom gets baked by the exhaust manifold below, all the insulation just falls off over time leaving bare wire.
I dont think this fault would stop the engine starting, but definitely causes rough running.
have you bought a really cheap crank sensor - heard of some being DOA
I realise you had the engine running for a few months, but have to ask how you overcome the immobiliser?
-
Hi, the reason for burn out was, i put the negative batt cable on the back of the starter aswell as the positive, it's a miracle it ran so long really, symptoms were a slow crank, like the batt was flat, then one day the loom started smoking, there was some damage to the coil, that I replaced bit still nothing as yet. I overcame the immobiliser by removing from the donor car along with the ecu it was programmed to, I have a project thread on here too, I've documented most things on there, with some pictures too, The temp sensor on VAGCOM is reading -40 at the min, I've got a new sensor on the way, I'm hoping a new sensor will give the correct info to the ECU, if that don't work, I'm maybe thinking the loom is a duffer! Really hope not,
-
Didnt you remove the new loom from another donner car which was running
-
Not this one no, the loom from the donor was the one I fried. I found someone selling another loom, so that's the one that's in now...i checked the voltage of the connection to the coil, showing 11.56v, pretty good? But no spark from coil, that's 2 I've tried now
-
Coil to distributer? Have you checked the wiring to the hall sender. Or the hall sender wiring.in the dizzy. Dependent on what dizzy you have to how the wiring should look inside
-
I took the King lead off the coil and rested on the engine, when ignition turned on, it sparked, but when turning over, it didn't, when i stopped turning over,it sparked twice again, here are some pics of the distributor. Can you let me know where the hall sender is? I have had a Google, but nothing really shows anything, thanks.
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m318/hardmonkeys/Mobile%20Uploads/image_3.jpeg) (http://s107.photobucket.com/user/hardmonkeys/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_3.jpeg.html)
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m318/hardmonkeys/Mobile%20Uploads/image_1.jpeg) (http://s107.photobucket.com/user/hardmonkeys/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_1.jpeg.html)
I also changed the coolant sensor which was showing -40c on the VAGCom, still showing -40c
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m318/hardmonkeys/Mobile%20Uploads/image_2.jpeg) (http://s107.photobucket.com/user/hardmonkeys/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_2.jpeg.html)
Don't suppose this'll help.
:embarrassed:
Any ideas
Thanks for all the help so far,
-
That plugg that is on the dizzy. Underneath is Hall effect sensor.
Wiring problems on this loom. Check wiring round Hall sensor. My old 16 was nearly broke through when I found it
-
Ok, thanks.
I will check all round that a clean up. Will this stop the spark from the king lead? As when turning over, no spark at all from King lead, until I stop crank when it will spark once or twice...
-
Im not sure. Could be telling the ecu not let the coil produce a spark.
Im sure it only stops the distributer though.
Youve checked its all in the right plugs on the fuse box.
Immobiliser definately not stepping in.
-
Well, I'm hoping the immobiliser isn't stepping in, when scanned with VAGCom it's not producing a code, but I've heard it doesn't always throw a code..the ring is around the ignition barrel, I haven't touched the immobiliser wires when putting the replacement loom in, and I've checked the wires are going where they should...hmmm, I really am at a loss here...
-
Theres ways to check all the ign side. Ecu Obvously controls the coil power.
All earths on and double checked.
It seams maybe coil is at fault. But unless you have a spare to check cant rule it
-
I've replaced the coil...albeit it with a euro car parts one,
-
I am suspecting the electrical side of the ignition barrel is faulty. btw the hall sender is the black piece that's screwed on to the inside of the distributor. you need to remove the dizzy and knock the roll pin out. then the trigger wheel will come out to give you access to the hall sender. I would change the ignition switch first though :wink:
-
Ok thanks, quick question though, if the switch was faulty, then surely it wouldn't illuminate dash light, let alone even turn over..remember I've had this engine running, until I fried the loom, (fusebox to engine compartment loom, I haven't fried the one that goes around the engine..if you know what I mean) it also started on Sunday, with throttle..but immediately cut out when I released it...please if I'm am wrong here, put me right, I'm learning and am happy to be out straight..
Thanks
-
Voltage of coil connector when ignition on is 11.56v or there abouts...are we looking at another coil? A better quality one?
-
Whats its voltage when cranking? And the resistance across + and -
-
Will check when I get back from the school run.
-
Voltage down to 0.36v...marvellous!!
So now what does that mean...
-
I've just replaced the ignition switch, now at cranking it's about 10.5v 👍🏻 but still no spark from coil King lead...
-
Just got the better quality item from Euro car parts, still nothing..I'm starting to think immobiliser...how can I check this?
-
Removed the ecu just to rule it out being fried by the first loom melting....
(http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m318/hardmonkeys/DB284A1E-FFD0-4232-AC70-68C4ABDDFA4B.jpg) (http://s107.photobucket.com/user/hardmonkeys/media/DB284A1E-FFD0-4232-AC70-68C4ABDDFA4B.jpg.html)
So..game over lol
Where from here? New ecu? Assuming it can't be repaired? New Immob box? Keys?
-
bingo! good work mr holmes :smiley:. that looks easily repairable to someone with a good eye and steady hands.
-
That's better news than I expected, will have a ring around see who knows who, and who knows what. Thanks for all your help everyone, it's been an education. No doubt I'll be back when it's fixed, will let you all know how it goes.
-
If you get thhe ecu repaired or a new one get it de-imobilised then you wont have to worry about the imob cutting in
-
I Was thinking that, thanks for the advice. Can't wait to get it sorted now
-
why not have a crack at it yourself? just solder a piece of wire in to it between the 3 solder points that are already there :wink:
-
Haha..there's some things I'd have a go at...soldering something so intricate...id rather a professional to do it.
-
I bought an ecu off eBay for £13.50 to see how that goes!! It came today and I programmed the immob to it using VCDS and it starts and runs!!!!!! :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: :grin: :laugh:
-
Sorted. Crack back on with the build then mate
-
Will do..