GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk7 => Topic started by: chris1h on 14 February 2016, 16:14
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Read the various other topics on other forums too.. whats the overall/summary.
Both situations waiting for the engine to warm up..
1) Cain from day one giving it the good beans!
2) Give it 1k miles ish before any hard acceleration..
various threads about sealing the rings etc from day 1 ?? :whistle: :whistle:
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Option 2
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i am boring and tend to run in, cars never had used much oil, i'm also conscious of getting things up to temp on the R
i wander how many turbo failures on the R were also linked to how the car had been treated
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In my manual, page 339 and 340 suggest how the engine should be run in.
Personally I wud adhere to this, but etto.
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First and foremost always get the oil up to temp. I wouldn't 'cain' it in the first 1k, but nor would I baby it. Mine loosened up from 650 miles in.
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Definitely don't baby it! Get the oil up to temp (90C) and give it a varied drive up and down through the gears. Engine speed isn't as important as how it gets there, but i'd try not to take the car to more than 5500revs and 3/4 throttle for at least the 500 miles.
Baby it and it will probably use oil.
That's my take, everyone's take is different and with 8 VWs from new 7 out of 8 use little/no oil between services, one was run in on motorway miles (800 of them sat in 6th gear at 2200revs - 2.0TDI) and had a big thirst for oil. I'd never do that again.
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As Booth above...it's important you get the oil up to temp first.
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First and foremost always get the oil up to temp. I wouldn't 'cain' it in the first 1k, but nor would I baby it. Mine loosened up from 650 miles in.
Agreed.
The 650 miles corresponds with about 1000km which points at an ECU setting where protection mode gets switched out to coincide with metal bits bedding in.
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I asked my stealer the same question. He said they are pre run in in the factory. So get her up to temp and rag it!
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In my manual, page 339 and 340 suggest how the engine should be run in.
Personally I wud adhere to this, but etto.
Christ, how big is the manual?
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:sad:
I asked my stealer the same question. He said they are pre run in in the factory. So get her up to temp and rag it!
I concur
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Get the oil temp up then smash it!
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Don't forget the brakes and tyres will also need bedding in.
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Don't forget the brakes and tyres will also need bedding in.
Smash them to!
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Varied revs and up to 3/4 throttle for first few hundred miles, the occasional full throttle burst up to 4500 won't do any harm. I takes about 20 hours of varied driving to do the initial bed in. Thereafter, further settling in takes place over about 10K in my experience.
I always start with the oil temperature showing. You can't go by the water temp gauge as the coolant heats up very quickly on these motors.
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In my manual, page 339 and 340 suggest how the engine should be run in.
Personally I wud adhere to this, but etto.
Christ, how big is the manual?
It's an epic read :laugh:
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He!He!
Or you can just use the Index... ( had to put the manual down to post this )
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I asked my stealer the same question. He said they are pre run in in the factory. So get her up to temp and rag it!
And you'd trust them to give you the correct answer? :rolleyes:
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I asked my stealer the same question. He said they are pre run in in the factory. So get her up to temp and rag it!
I'm of the don't baby it persuasion when it comes to 'run in'. However, the drive train is bench run in these days, but the tyres brakes and suspension components are not. You should allow 250-500 miles for these to bed in before truly caning the arse off the car!
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There's no bench running in, that would be a massively time consuming and costly operation. They are built to very fine tolerances these days, and they get a quick turn-over check to ensure everything was put together properly - that's all they need.
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^^^ This ^^^
What the dealer said is BS...
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I work for a large engine manufacturing company in the midlands and recently had a chat with some of my colleagues about this.
A senior manager (who has worked at Ricardo and other automotive consultants/manufacturers) recommended an oil and filter change at 100 miles to remove any machining swarf/metal remnants.
This is in-line with what we would do at work when engine testing.
Apart from what is being discussed (wait for engine oil to warm up), you can pretty much drive it however you like.
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Ive said it once, I'll say it again. SMASH IT!!!! 😂
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This is very interesting to hear. I've just confirmed my order for a Golf R and the thoughts of having to take it easy for the first 1000 miles would do my head in!
If anyone has managed to not drive their new Golf R hard straight away, they have better patience than me.
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There's no bench running in, that would be a massively time consuming and costly operation. They are built to very fine tolerances these days, and they get a quick turn-over check to ensure everything was put together properly - that's all they need.
When I said bench run, they are spun up for quality control...if it passes it's ok and therefore run in ;)
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What I have always done is never go over 3k revs until the car warms up no matter what the mileage is on the car. Other than that I drive it the same at 20 miles as I do at 20k miles. Both my car(diesel) and my wife's GTi have never needed an oil top up. My car has just over 20k and her car has nearly 30k on it.
Brakes are another thing that needs care on a new car or when new discs and pads are fitted. 3-4 heavy goes at braking from 60-70 mph to almost stop with 1/4 mile or so in between each braking.
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This is very interesting to hear. I've just confirmed my order for a Golf R and the thoughts of having to take it easy for the first 1000 miles would do my head in!
If anyone has managed to not drive their new Golf R hard straight away, they have better patience than me.
Nope! I'm always careful for the first few miles to let the engine temp get up, then I'll do what I want. I was however careful with the brakes for a little while before stamping on them. Can easily warp a set of new discs by being a bit eager
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If you love your engine, wait until the OIL temp is > 60 before using high revs/high load. The water temp reaches 90 rapidly but at this time of year the oil takes a long time to warm up.
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If you love your engine, wait until the OIL temp is > 60 before using high revs/high load. The water temp reaches 90 rapidly but at this time of year the oil takes a long time to warm up.
90 is ideal in my opinion ie. operating temperature :cool:
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If you love your engine, wait until the OIL temp is > 60 before using high revs/high load. The water temp reaches 90 rapidly but at this time of year the oil takes a long time to warm up.
90 is ideal in my opinion ie. operating temperature :cool:
But how much does the viscosity of the oil change between 60C and 90C? Agreed that it won't do any harm waiting for oil temp to reach 90C but I suspect that there will be little measurable difference between the lubricating properties of the oil between 60C and 90C...
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If you love your engine, wait until the OIL temp is > 60 before using high revs/high load. The water temp reaches 90 rapidly but at this time of year the oil takes a long time to warm up.
90 is ideal in my opinion ie. operating temperature :cool:
But how much does the viscosity of the oil change between 60C and 90C? Agreed that it won't do any harm waiting for oil temp to reach 90C but I suspect that there will be little measurable difference between the lubricating properties of the oil between 60C and 90C...
I'd agree with that, modern fully synthetic oils have a wide operational range, is it coincidence that the MK7 starts to show oil temp at 50C, I doubt the oil would get appreciably thinner up into the normal 100C "warm" range from 50C.
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It's not the viscosity of the oil, it's about whether all of the load bearing parts have reached their design mating tolerances which are optimal at operating temperature. I get tailgated by morons until I see 90 on the gague.