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General => Detailing => Topic started by: Watts on 11 November 2015, 13:51
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Washed my car this morning and thought, rather than dry it properly, I'll give it a quick blast down the road to get the worst of it off. Result, dried water stains all over. So, gave it a good going over with some QD (Bouncers) and now I have a very clean but also very smeary car with remnants of water stains all over :angry:
So, how can I sort this mess out? Or will it get sorted by washing again?
Fed up from west London.
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Washing it again will get rid of quite a lot of the marks I expect. CarPro Eraser is suppposd to be good for removing water spots, so maybe try some of that on any remaining after the next wash.
The moral of the story is........always dry your car properly with good microfibre towels such as WoWo!
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I have got a mf towel (WoWo naturally), was just trying to cut corners. It's tricky at this time of the year to have both time and the weather on your side.
Thanks for the reply and the tip.
Not sure where things are going wrong with the smearing, I had trouble buffing off the wax I applied a few weeks ago. Could there be too much build up of products on the paint? Or am I just not putting enough effort in?
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Perhaps you are applying too much product when you use them? A lot of car cleaning products spread really well and the idea with wax especially is to get as thin and even a coat as possible.
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Thanks seabrook, I was being careful with the amount used but perhaps not careful enough. I'll leave well alone now until the next wash.
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As Dan says, the smearing does suggest too much wax may have been used. You only need the thinnest layer of any kind of wax, be it hard, paste or liquid. Finish kare is paste wax and although liquid and paste waxes are generally easier to apply, it also makes it easier to put too much on. Much harder to put too much of a hard wax on, because, well because it's harder!
If you ever apply a paste or liquid wax using a DA, you'll see just how thin and even a layer goes on via the finishing pad. It's a great lesson in exactly how little wax is needed and is then very easy to buff off by hand with a MF. Not possible to apply hard wax with a DA.
After you next wash the car, go round and give it a really good buffing to try and shift any still on. If you are still having issues after that, I would remove the wax which you can strip off with a very concentrated shampoo wash and start again, being very sparing with it next time round. Good luck and let us know how you get on. :smiley:
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Thanks for the comprehensive reply. I agree, I think the wax is where it all went wrong and today was just revealing an existing problem. I'll leave the waxing alone now 'til next year, there's plenty of protection on the car for winter and I don't seem to be improving things :grin:
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Morning
Just going back to the rinse and drive drying method, although using a wowo drying towel is obviously the best :grin: I've often done the rinse and drive method, especially of you know that within an hour of finishing the car its gonna belt it down! However I add a small amount of rinse aid to a watering can, rinse and then do the drive and water spots have never been an issue tbh.
I know that some people don't like it but I use demon shine which is on the 2 for 1 offer @ Halfords and it works a treat.
With regard the wax, as said, I think you may have applied too much. In my experience less is more and better to do it twice that have a nightmare once.
Cheers
Neil
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I add a small amount of rinse aid to a watering can, rinse and then do the drive and water spots have never been an issue tbh.
Good tip, thanks Neil. I may treat myself to another of your lovely drying towels too as one isn't really enough for the whole car. Partly why I went for the quick drive.
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Are you rinsing the car with an open hose?
Doing this from the top down will 'sheet' the water off, leaving much less to dry with the towel. Some people still spray the car to rinse it, leaving it covered in water beads that will A- soak the drying towel in no time, and B- dry on their own leaving water marks, as you will not have time to dry the car quickly enough due to A.
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Another good point, thanks dubber. I'd forgotten about that, I used to but it has fallen by the wayside. I have a valve at the end of my hose that stops the water when an attachment has been removed. Very handy but a faff if you want to use an open hose. I may have to replace it for one that lets the water run.
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I may have to replace it for one that lets the water run.
I fold the hose over and pinch it to save getting soaked when changing the tool on the end.
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I may have to replace it for one that lets the water run.
I fold the hose over and pinch it to save getting soaked when changing the tool on the end.
Ditto.
Open ended hose final rinse is one of the most important steps for ensuring the minimum of water is left on the car.
Mind you since getting the Race Glaze water filter I don't have to worry about that, but still follow my old habits and always will. Some people that use filters don't bother drying at all but I always will. The thought of door sills, boot etc with water sitting in the traps makes me cringe.
It's an expensive option I know, and as well as the initial outlay, there's an ongoing cost for filter replacement granuals, but the water filter is a brilliant piece of kit and it's such a relief not having to worry about water marks. Possibly the best £100 I've spent on a piece of detailing kit. If you are concerned about water marks, something to consider. Or just make sure you rinse and dry the car properly.
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I may appreciate the benefit of the filter now but it's still a gadget too far. But I could be warming to it...