GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: JtheB on 18 June 2015, 22:14
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I own a 90 MK2 Golf GTI. It has been garaged over winter. I have started it up every other week whilst it was garaged and left it running stationary just to keep the engine ticking over etc. However when I decided to get it out of the garage to put it back on the road a few weeks ago it wouldn't start, it just cranks over :huh:.
I have followed the Haynes Manual Ignition test. Got to testing the ignition module by checking for the 2 Volts at Coil (dropping to zero) and there is nothing...zero volts all the time, which points to the ignition module being faulty. I have fitted a new module and I still have zero volts all the time. Can anyone help? Very much appreciated as I am at my wits end :sad:. Thank you!
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Has it got any fuel in it?
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Hi. Yes it has plenty :)
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Do you see 12V at the ignition coil terminal 15 when the ignition is switched on?
IIRC there's two black wires on that terminal, one feeds the coil itself 12V, the other goes off to the ignition module to supply it with 12V.
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Thank you very much. I checked that before and think it was ok but i will recheck. Any other ideas would still be greatly appreciated in case it's not that. Thanks again!
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faulty hall sender in distributor is a very common fault.
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yes my hall sensor failed on my old K jet
28 year old bloody cheap German quality :wink:
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just because your not getting proper readings at ignition module doesn't mean that's whats faulty. if the circuit is down somewhere else in the loom the module wont be reading right.
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I've tried it and there is 12V there...any other ideas? Thank you!
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So it cranking but not firing, have you checked to see if fuel is getting to the injectors, can you hear the pump priming?
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have you checked a plug to see if its sparking?
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Yes the fuel pump is priming and when the engine is turning over there is a smell of fuel and there is no spark...
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Hhhhmmmmmmm, coil?
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I have checked the windings of the coil and that all seems ok...
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do you have the feed to the dizzy ?
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How do I check the distributor and where is the feed? Thank you!!!
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the Haynes manual (green cover version) has all the how to test in it
mine is a Kjet so it may be different !
as far as i can remember, with the ignition switched on , you should get 5volts
at the small plug on the side of the dizzy....but please check the manual first
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Ok. Thank you very much. I will look into it and get back to you 😊
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Hi. I've changed the engine module and that's not worked. I've also checked the two outer pins and they have 12 volts 😐...I'm at my wits ends 😯
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Running out of ideas too. I bought a transparent dizzy cap ages ago for when I was having starting issues, that way I could see that when the engine was turning, so was the rotor arm, and more to the point, that there was a spark at the rotor arm, hence me buying some new leads as I didn't have a spark at the plugs.
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Check to see if you have a spark at the king lead. Take it off the dizzy and hold it to the block/head while you crank the engine.
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Check to see if you have a spark at the king lead. Take it off the dizzy and hold it to the block/head while you crank the engine.
Yeah, but be careful. I handed my Dad the lead and told him to hold it near the engine. He almost ruined his trousers when I cranked it ... Don't think he was holding it close enough
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Also don't put the other hand on the slam panel. It makes you the path of least resistance.
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I had same problem.
Check you have continuity between terminal 2 of the ignition control module plug and earth. If not, it's a bad earth.
Mine was on the back of the radiator on the left hand side looking at the car. I clipped it to the main earth between batt and gearbox and that sorted it. Basically, the earth connection on the radiator was sh!t.
There could be loads of things I've learnt- but that was the issue with mine and a quick check/fix.
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Thanks will try that! Had to leave it for a while due to other commitments but will look at it again soon! I will let you know how I get on...