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Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: hardmonkeys on 26 January 2015, 11:40
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Hi all, been looking at a golf cabrio today, it's an 'w' reg, when you start it up, and Put it in drive or reverse, the engine stalls until it's warm, any ideas on what could be causing this?
Also when the engine is warm the clutches and brake bands in the auto box slip. This is worse in third and fourth, any ideas? I'm thinking if I do get it, it would be easier to replace with a recon box?
Easy to do?
I'm new to mk3s so any help I will be grateful for.
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I don't know if this will be any help but the only experience i have of auto boxes is with Fords from the 80's and 90's.
If someone with a Ford from that era described the same symptoms i would guess that the stalling problem could be down to the vacuum operated modulator on side of gearbox but i have no idea if Golf has one .
See post starting "well i'm in a bit of a quandary " about half way down page :- http://retrorides.proboards.com/thread/36624/1986-ford-granada-mk2-hearse
One of the most common and simple to sort problems on an auto box is caused by irregular oil changes or incorrect oil top up,it can also be incorrect adjustment of the kickdown cable or a combination of both.
Many auto's require a certain procedure you have to go through when topping up the box level,it's not like topping up the engine oil and can be easily screwed up if you don't know the process.It differs from car to car,make to make.I have never worked on a MK3 sorry so cannot advise.
I have had quite a few cars come to me with symptoms as you describe and most have been sorted by an oil flush, and change to the correct level.
If you decide to go ahead i suppose you have to look at the worst scenario and work out the cost of another auto box but you could also consider changing it to a manual and use the running gear from a 16v which has a stronger gearbox than the 8v.
Good luck.
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Thanks for your reply, you could be right about the lack of gearbox maintenance, I've looked thought the receipts and not seen a service on it, might attempt gearbox oil change, before I do anything drastic like replace the box haha
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Hi, I've been asking a few people about this problem with the gearbox, one of the delivery drivers from my wife's work, old boy, in his 70-80s, says best thing to do is drain the oil, fill with Thinners, to clean the internals, empty and then refill with ATF, I've never heard of this way before, any ideas? not sure I want to do it this way, is there an actual gearbox flush, I'm a complete newb when it comes to the Auto Box...
Also, I went on Honest John ( Iknow, I know) and it says there is a common fault with the 4 speed Autobox,
'4-speed autobox can have problems. Since VW dealers charge £4,000 for a new one, this is best sorted by an independent specialist. Often no more than an oil control valve'
Oil control valve?? Any ideas where to find this? Might/could need changing,
Thanks
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http://workshop-manuals.com/volkswagen/golf-mk3/power_transmission/automatic_gearbox_01m_from_01.95/automatic_gearbox_gears_control/removing_and_installing_valve_chest/
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I've flushed auto boxes many times ( 80's Volvo's leak coolant into the gearbox for fun).
You can do it at home but its a fag, needs two people and a sh!t load of ATF.
I have used flushing agents with mixed results :lipsrsealed:
Phone around first to get some prices from a box specialist, should only take an hour or so with the right kit.
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Excellent, thank you both, all interesting reading
Really looking forward to getting my teeth into this
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If your going to do it flush it from the cooler on the rad, use the pipes going to it and some flexi you can clip over them to get to a bucket. One pours in, one keeps the pipes in the bucket and an eye on the level don't let the box run dry or you will be bleeding air out of it foh ever and ever.
You could get very messy so cover up well ATF stains mums nice driveway and is not to good for paint
I once flushed a box with engine flush and it broke off 160000 miles of crud into the inner workings.....(this is where i honed my Volvo box bleeding skills in preparation for the coolant leak saga into the box via the cooler grrrrr)
Got away fine a couple of other times with flush but this was on the solid Borg W drive not the PRV crud.
Its just less of a pita to use ATF to flush, just takes a while longer.
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Went into the local VW dealer to ask the service advisor, I'm very friendly with this guy, he helped me a lot with my previous VWs, and he is very knowledgable, anyways, I explained my problems with the gearbox, and like everyone is saying here, to drain the box and renew the oil, but he also came up with another fix...the relay for the autobox...so I'm going to giving that a try, got to find which one first...wish me luck :laugh:
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hi again, i totally forgot i had a snide copy of VAG-COM...i know i shouldnt, but i got off a guy on here...so..thats my excuse lol...anyways
here is what my scan produced
VAG-COM Version: Release 311.2-N
Chassis Type: 1H - VW G/J/V Mk3
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,25,56
Address 01 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 037 906 025 R
Component: SIMOS 4S 2572
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00672
No fault code found.
Address 02 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 01M 927 733 FR
Component: AG4 Getriebe 01M 4161
Coding: 00000
Shop #: WSC 00000
4 Faults Found:
00518 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69)
16-10 - Signal Outside Specifications - Intermittent
00638 - Engine/Transmission Electrical Connection 2
03-10 - No Signal - Intermittent
00300 - Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor (G93)
34-00 - No Malfunction Detected
01192 - Torque Converter Lock-Up Clutch
04-10 - Mechanical Malfunction - Intermittent
Address 03 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 3A0 907 379 D
Component: ABS ITTAE 20 GI V00
Coding: 03704
Shop #: WSC 00672
No fault code found.
Skipping Address 15-Airbags
Address 25 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 6X0 953 257
Component: IMMO 0003
Coding: 00001
Shop #: WSC 00672
WVWZZZ1EZYK016131 VWZ1Z0Y0445130
1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module
65-10 - Unauthorized - Intermittent
Address 56 -------------------------------------------------------
Controller: 1J0 035 186 D
Component: RADIO SON 0003
Coding: 07403
Shop #: WSC 00672
No fault code found.
End -------------------------------------------------------
anyone seen anything like this? i have looked in Ross wiki, but the 1st two don't show up,
but, 00300 - Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor (G93) - Implausible Signal
Possible Symptoms
MIL On
Transmission Not Shifting Properly or in Limp Mode
Possible Causes
Wiring/Connectors from/to Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor (G93) faulty
Voltage Supply for Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor (G93) faulty
Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor (G93) faulty
Possible Solutions
Check Wiring/Connectors from/to Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor (G93)
Check Voltage Supply for Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor (G93)
Check Measuring Blocks for Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor (G93) Readings
Check / Replace Transmission Fluid Temp. Sensor (G93)
and
01192 - Torque Converter Lock-Up Clutch: Mechanical Malfunction
Possible Symptoms
Torque Converter Lock-Up Clutch slipping
Possible Causes
Torque Converter Lock-Up Clutch faulty
Valve Body faulty
Internal Failure in Transmission
Possible Solutions
Check Torque Converter Lock-Up Clutch Slip
Special Notes
When found in 4-Speed Automatic Transmission (01M), check Measuring Value Block (MVB) 007.
not had chance to look into the MVB yet, but it'll be interesting to see what it shows...
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Lets hope none of these codes are masking other faults.
Worth sucking out the old box oil any way just to see if it's got metal or water or both in it.
Then you can work through the list electrical faults first.
Mechanical fault is new box territory. ....
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I'm going to have a good ol' go at it this weekend, missus is prepared to get her hands dirty too, she loves her VWs as much as I do...will report with findings!
Thanks
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I've changed the relay, 2nd one in, and it seems to have sorted the stalling from cold, will hopefully test for sure tomorrow 1st thing, or at earliest later tonight when the engine temp has dropped. Not going to be able to change the ATF until next weekend now, to renew you need to remove the bung and the anti tamper cap, which need to be ordered from VW...and I've not done it yet..so that'll be Monday, for a delivery on Tuesday...
I did rescan after then stalling stopped...nothing, then took it for a 4 mile drive, and the
92 - Torque Converter Lock-Up Clutch
04-10 - Mechanical Malfunction - Intermittent
Came back...not good...but will do a fluid change anyway, see what happens then
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I take this back, it didn't work, the revs still drop lots and the car is trying to force its way back when selecting reverse, it's as auto choke isn't working..(does it have something like this?)
By the looks of things, it seems to have had a new coil...it looks new..might be wrong obviously..
When warm, it's still ok, the revs drop, but not enough for a stall..gears still slip though
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ordered the items today for the fluid change, Heritage VW Dorchester had no part numbers for my car from VWUK, didn't know if I had the 091 or the 0M1 gearbox....I know its old...but still expected them to know something, when asked what I'm to do if I need anything....he couldn't answer..
so using the power of the web, I found out I have the 0M1 box mated to the AGG engine..and using www.vagcat.com I found the part numbers needed!!
ordered..should be here Wednesday latest
seems easy enough to do..famous last words
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Not sure if anyone reads this now lol, think I've bored everyone to death with it :laugh: :laugh:
Anyways, Ive emptied and cleaned the sump, replaced the gasket and changed the ATF..
.. :angry: :angry: not worked, although it did feel slightly better...instead of slipping and screaming in 3rd and 4th, it jolts into 3rd, but still screams at random times...
Thinking a new box is in order...
Read codes, the torque convertor on came up again..
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I'm still reading lol !. :nerd:
If it were me i would just change the torque convertor as it seems that is the main problem.As it replaces the clutch system on a manual version it sounds like it is engaing and disengaging when it feels like it.
Shame its a pain of a job though !. :sad:
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Get a box on lowest possible miles and give it a refurb, great way to find out how an auto box works.
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Great, thanks for for advice. If I was to buy another box, does it have to be the exact same code? (EPR) or could I buy another 4 speed box that is mated to a AGG engine?
Will also look into changing the torque converter, assuming box out completely job?
Was looking through some old receipts from the previous owner today, less that 1000miles ago he had it MOT'd, was in October mind, he had new a 'aftermarket' 'budget' catalyst to sort emissions out, it just seems to have gone downhill very quickly since, I went round the house the other day, as it was only 10mins down the road, and his dad answered, he was very vague with answers, of when it started to slip (about a week before he got rid of it...(which was when???!?)) when cleaning the car out there were car park receipts from 31/12/14...I got the car on 26/1/15 and it was sorn on 17/1/15...so not long between using it NYE, SORN, and me having it...27days
I'm going to go out in a while to see if it stalled from cold still, it didn't last night, but I did have to leave it running to get up to temperature to get the oil level correct before refitting the plug.
The ATF at first smelled burnt, but then it subsided, it wasn't BLACK BLACK, but wasn't red either, more like a dirty brown, suppose like engine oil isn't golden when it gets dumped, but it's probably never been replaced ever!
Got to clean the garage floor today and put my tools away, garage is a mess as it was to late to tidy away last night, had to think of the neighbours with Young kiddys. I am a thoughtful soul haha