GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Waspy on 18 October 2014, 12:29
-
Last year I took my car to a council MOT place, who passed it with even an advisory.
This year, they were booked up and I had to use an independent garage check out this tasty result.
2013:
Result: Pass
Advise: Nil
2014:
Result: Fail
- Nearside rear wheel bearing play
- offside rear wheel bearing play
- Nearside front wheel bearing play
- Offside front strut play
- Nearside from D bush on antiroll bar bad, resulting on play
- Battery insecure (this was my bad)
- Offside fog light (rear) out (again, my bad)
- Offside front indicator incorrect colour (it's orange, and a brand new bulb)
- Side repeater wrong colour (I didn't even think you needed repeaters?!)
- offside rear (corner) body or chassis has excessive corrosion within 30cm of the body molding.
Advise:
- the other D-bush
- Offside rear indicator slightly discoloured
- Nearside rear indicator slightly discoloured
- Oil leak
- rear washer not working
- Front grille loose
- timing cover fouling pully belt
- rear bumper missing (lol, I have a new one to put on)
Think I've been taken for a ride?
Regardless, they failed it, and quoted about 800 quid for parts and labour including the welding. I don't have 800 quid to throw at this.
Time to break it and look for a better mk2? :(
-
Last year I took my car to a council MOT place, who passed it with even an advisory.
This year, they were booked up and I had to use an independent garage check out this tasty result.
2013:
Result: Pass
Advise: Nil
2014:
Result: Fail
- Nearside rear wheel bearing play= Adjust £free
- offside rear wheel bearing play= Adjust £free
- Nearside front wheel bearing play= Change (shame I just binned a pair) £25
- Offside front strut play= New top mount, Single £15 pair £30
- Nearside from D bush on antiroll bar bad, resulting on play= New link £15 each/£30 pair
- Battery insecure (this was my bad)= Do it up
- Offside fog light (rear) out (again, my bad)= New bulb £1?
- Offside front indicator incorrect colour (it's orange, and a brand new bulb) But does it match N/S? =£50 per pair
- Side repeater wrong colour (I didn't even think you needed repeaters?!) If they are fitted they have to be right, could blank off with early GTI badges or buy a pair from VWH £40/50 ?
- offside rear (corner) body or chassis has excessive corrosion within 30cm of the body molding.
Welding and body work £250 est
You can do most of this easy yourself, but add labour to it and the price does shoot up....
Advise:
- the other D-bush
- Offside rear indicator slightly discoloured
- Nearside rear indicator slightly discoloured
- Oil leak= new rocker cover or sump gasket maybe? £25
- rear washer not working= Probably a split hose in the boot lid if fronts work £5
- Front grille loose= Cable ties 10p
- timing cover fouling pully belt= Jesus do you look after this car at all :grin:
- rear bumper missing (lol, I have a new one to put on) Pikey :grin:
Think I've been taken for a ride?= Possibly, post some pics or the rotten bits
Regardless, they failed it, and quoted about 800 quid for parts and labour including the welding. I don't have 800 quid to throw at this.
Time to break it and look for a better mk2? :(
A better one will cost more than £800, a decent Mk2 will start at around £1500 for a solid shell :smiley:
HTH
-
you could send your mot off with £60 in an envelope and get a pass back. Or find a guy who isn't an arsehole. My MOT garage invited me to GTI international while I was waiting. Failed on some small light problem stuff but passed it on retest with no advisories.
I would check the wheel bearings yourself for play as that's dangerous. If you do change the fronts then go and get the bearings pressed out and new ones pressed in. A friendly place will do it during lunch or something. I never want to do wheel bearings myself ever again as its a right thingy without a press.
If all the lights work a face the right direction I can't see an issue
-
Here is their version of events:
Bearing need replacing - 30 quid each plus labour.
They didn't quote for the strut, I said I would do it.
D bushes - can't remember price, but the said 45 mins labour. Don't even know what/where these are, so might struggle to do myself
Battery - Yep
Fog light - not the bulb, but I think I know what it is
I have clear lenses on the indicators, but both bulbs are orange and new.
I might blank the repeaters. Otherwise it's just bulbs. Not much moolarrr
They quoted 7hours for the welding. At 430 quid, plus 20 for materials. I have no idea what good welder rates are
I am happy to try my hand at stuff. But I don't know how to adjust or change wheel bearings. I'll look it up. But the wheel bearings and welding were the main ones what resulted in the 800 quid.
Sump gasket, yeah, I'll do that if I keep it
Not too worried by the rear washer
Front grille, I was already sorting it
The timing cover is brand new, and one of the bolt holes is stripped, so that what that's happening. It didn't have a cover at all before I got it! Someone probably took it off so it didn't foul things...
The bumper fell off a few days ago. The bolts on the old ones are seized and need a lot more than plusgas, a socket set, a few choice words and some scuffed knuckles. Which is why it hasn't been done sooner.
If I was able to get welding for 250 and do the rest myself, I would probably keep it. 1500 for a solid shell sound pretty tempting. Bodywork on mine is sketchy in places. I dream of the day I can have a the rust bubbles sorted and the think resprayed
It's hard to take good photos of that corner, but I'll try.
60 quid in exchange for a pass sound like a bargain :laugh:
-
(http://s15.postimg.org/5rjqg8063/image.jpg)
I bet they wouldn't have noticed if the bumper was on! Sure it looks bad. Can't be structural though, right?
(http://s27.postimg.org/ydo5eo9f7/image.jpg)
Underneath looks alright in my uneducated opinion.
-
I've seen worse rust on a "roadworthy" MK2 but it probably is 30cm from something structural...
-
I've seen worse rust on a "roadworthy" MK2 but it probably is 30cm from something structural...
Well, the bumper is going back on (if I can get the old one off) which will hide it. I'll do all the other stuff and see if I can get it through a different test
-
I've seen worse rust on a "roadworthy" MK2 but it probably is 30cm from something structural...
Well, the bumper is going back on (if I can get the old one off) which will hide it. I'll do all the other stuff and see if I can get it through a different test
The last booking on a Friday is a good place to start :grin:
-
I didn't think rear washer was part of the mot? He sounds like a cock...take it somewhere else I would and put the bumper on!
-
No competent tester will pass that rot unfortunately. Garage welding rates are always quite high.
-
No competent tester will pass that rot unfortunately. Garage welding rates are always quite high.
Would it be cheaper/easier for them to weld in new panels, or to fabricate?
-
No competent tester will pass that rot unfortunately. Garage welding rates are always quite high.
Would it be cheaper/easier for them to weld in new panels, or to fabricate?
That job is going to be a bit of both i'm afraid.
A section from a panel(s) new or old and some fabing.
-
No competent tester will pass that rot unfortunately. Garage welding rates are always quite high.
Would it be cheaper/easier for them to weld in new panels, or to fabricate?
That job is going to be a bit of both i'm afraid.
A section from a panel(s) new or old and some fabing.
I was thinking
https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/mk2-golf/191809616/rear-lower-corner-repair-mk2-golf-right-hand-side/?crumbStartPage=1&crumbStartRow=1
And
https://www.vwheritage.com/shop/mk2-golf/191813304/rear-valance-below-badge-plinth-mk2-golf-84-92/?crumbStartPage=1&crumbStartRow=1
-
+You might need the inner skin/pan and a sheet of the right gauge steel to join it all up.
Look at Jamo's Golf and Corrado builds to see how much needs to be cut out and put in when needing something solid to weld to.
Beware garages just boshing on some plate it looks rubbish and lasts 5 mins
-
Wouldnt say there is anything structural there. Structural is usually mounting places such as those for a back axle, Sill reinforcements etc
Someones been a bit OTT IMHO.
-
It's part of the structural leg so yeah it should fail regardless of wether it's near a prescriped area.
-
It's part of the structural leg so yeah it should fail regardless of wether it's near a prescriped area.
IS IT part of the structural leg? To me it looks like it's just a body panel :undecided: I'm no expert though. Hopefully getting help to get it welded up from family anyway (win)
-
So...
Got the car on stands this weekend and had a poke at the rust. Found a nice hole in the inner wheel arch which got MUCH bigger when I started poking it, so I'm no longer disputing the MOT rust failure haha. I'll get so nice crusty pics up soon. Uncle came round with his welding gear and gave me a crash course :nerd: I got some practice in and ended up with two bits on metal neatly welded together.
Time to start cutting the car up. Due to the location of the wheel arch rust, I need to drop the axel etc, which meant discounting the break lines. The flaring nut was completely f'ed. So going to cut 'um and use it as an excuse to get some nice braided lines. Might even go for a 280mm conversion (gotta be ready for when a put a 1.8t in it...)
So that's where I am at with this MOT fiasco. Next weeks jobs are, to finish dropping the axel. Drop the fuel tank. Cut out the rust, weld in new metal. Treat and seal area. Perhaps cut out the filler panel while the tank is out, and weld in new section.
In the following weeks it will be:
Weld in new valance
Weld in repair corner section
Sort brake lines
Starter motor
Front top mounts
Wheel bearing all round (although I felt for play in the rear offside, and there was non, completely solid, yet it failed on then. So I think they have had me on the bearings)
ARB mountings (front)
While the rear ARB is off, is it worth uprating it?
Got a feeling my project thread is going to get a big old post soon...
-
Common mk2 list there and hours of fun.
If your budget is healthy id just poly bush the whole wishbones and any rubber bushing you can replace. Do it once and forget about it or its a never ending cycle. Poly ftw
-
So it went in again today. I ran out of time on some jobs so I left the front wheel bearings. If the new MOT centre fails it I will just get them to fix them. Gotten to the stage where I need the car.
Did the usual MOT checks on the lights etc this morning, no issues. However when I set off the indicators were flashing double speed. So I know it's a fail, odd though, because there were no bulbs out.
-
Interesting story.
New MOTers didn't fail the bearings, or the roll bar mounts.
Failed on the indicators, like I said it would. Hay ho.
-
FINALLY PASSED!