GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: dane on 18 May 2014, 19:20
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Hey guys just wondering if there is any checks or anything u can think off that I should do be for taking long drive from Devon to rtech on Friday any thing u can think off be great just worred I'm going to get there and they say they can't do it :/ thanks Dane
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I'd check all the basics like all fluid levels, visual check of all boost/vac lines, new air/fuel filters if they haven't been changed in a while, check your plugs, scan for fault codes etc.
Also make sure you're running it on V-power or Tesco Momentum 99 fuel.
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I would clear your codes (if you have a code reader or VCDS). Any that are logged will be fresh and current.
Obviously the engine will make multiple runs to the red line, so I would want to know my oil and filter are up to it.
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What spec is the car for stage 2?
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they will check the car to make sure all the boost pipes are in good condition and there are no leaks and give the engine a general health check before they start.
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as the others have said, check the fluid levels, fault codes, etc.
Run decent fuel - Shell Nitro+ or whatever it is gets my vote but you can also run Tesco 99 if you must :grin:
Remember you'll need an uprated actuator (forge) and check the actuator and DV have yellow springs in
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Uprated actuator isn't essential, rtech now recommend a new oem actuator if the car has done high miles.
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I know the new OEM one is meant to be uprated but surely an OEM vs a Forge there is no question - I wouldn't risk it with a stage 2 - stage 1 you might get away with it
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I know the new OEM one is meant to be uprated but surely an OEM vs a Forge there is no question - I wouldn't risk it with a stage 2 - stage 1 you might get away with it
What is that based on? This is a quote directly from R-tech regarding Stage 2 requirements:
Decent strong actuator Pressure is key to the higher numbers, an actuator with 100+k on it will not make the higher stage2 numbers due to the spring getting weak, where a new oem actuator will do 250+bhp.
I can forward you the e-mail if you like.
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personally I wouldn't put 99RON fuel in JUST for 1 day of remap. if you run 99RON all the time anyway then great, but if you usually only put 95RON in getting it mapped to 99 and then refilling it with 95 doesn't make much sense to me.
The map will be tailored to the higher octane and behave badly once you return to 95
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I know the new OEM one is meant to be uprated but surely an OEM vs a Forge there is no question - I wouldn't risk it with a stage 2 - stage 1 you might get away with it
What is that based on?
Stage 1 I ran a standard actuator and it wasn't up to the job (unknown amount of time it had been on the car), upgraded to a forge (green spring) ran ok, needed a yellow spring for the stage 2 as it wouldn't keep it closed, so its based on my own events and circumstances nothing else.
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I thought the standard engine wanted 98RON anyway?
Putting 95RON in a stage 2 car? Madness I tell you! :laugh:
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Higher octane fuel needs to be run for a few tank fulls to allow the ECU to adapt
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Tesco 99' and methanol :evil:
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Why put 95 RON in a stage 2 car, thought the idea behind stage 2 was to get the best out of your car. 95Ron OK for completely standard car and generic map, just my opinion.
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With 95 on a 98RON map it will retard the ignition timing creating a hotter mix and less power...
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Full spec and results!
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I had mine stage 2 mapped by R-tech on 99 last year and they told me it's not safe for the engine to put 95 in anymore.
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James. If you don't mind me asking, what is your spec, and what results did you get at r tech?
The fuel debate is surely obvious. Vpower is the only option. Miles to tank it works the same. I got mine mapped on the ko3 on supermarket fuel. Big regret as now I use vpower, it's not at it's best. No logged through VCDS and not a sign of knock. Ports and valves are nice and clean too.
If I have to use supermarket fuel I unplug the. N75
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(http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a338/mogwaiii/c5e31491-e306-4bc3-b1cd-c06ef1b2e31b.jpg)
Milltek 2.5" cat back with discreet tailpipes & 2.5" decat downpipe
PVC simplification (N249 delete, SAI delete) and oil catch can install
Forge 008p
Forge silicone TIP
Forge wastegate actuator
THS front mounted intercooler & high flow pancake pipe
VR6 clutch & G60 flywheel
Cold air induction kit with K&N cone filter
NGK Iridium spark plugs
They put a few extras on as well, like launch control, linear throttle and a switchable map with 5 different settings, it's pretty cool and had no problems at all in the year and a bit that I've had it.
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Very similar spec to mine. But I don't have an exhaust. Just the 3" DP.
I know it will hold me back. But I'm wanting a quiet system
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Mine's the resonated milltek system, it's pretty discreet most of the time
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And over £400 these days!
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£375 on Dubmeister:
http://www.dubmeister.co.uk/webshop/exhausts/milltek/system/vw/mk4-golf-1-8t/mk4-golf-resonated-cat-back-1-8t-system-1998-2004-2-50-bore-twin-discrete-tailpipes/ (http://www.dubmeister.co.uk/webshop/exhausts/milltek/system/vw/mk4-golf-1-8t/mk4-golf-resonated-cat-back-1-8t-system-1998-2004-2-50-bore-twin-discrete-tailpipes/)
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There's a full system on ebay for £350
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Show me!
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http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=360940931173&globalID=EBAY-GB
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Get new one they crack have had 3 now on different 1.8t and all have had cracked welding. me personally wouldn't buy, this one now cracked at tailpipes and only 2 1/2yrs old.
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Get new one they crack have had 3 now on different 1.8t and all have had cracked welding. me personally wouldn't buy, this one now cracked at tailpipes and only 2 1/2yrs old.
this is why milltek wont see any of my money again :whistle:
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It's looking like it's going to be a jetex
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It's looking like it's going to be a jetex
have a custom system made :wink:
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I'm going to phone pipewerx now