GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: XMC1980 on 01 April 2014, 13:51
-
It was suggested to me to do a run in service at 1000 miles, and to do oil flush but there are contradicting opinions on here?
What do you think?
-
I would avoid engine flush at all costs on a 1.8t for a lot of reasons.
-
I would avoid engine flush at all costs on a 1.8t for a lot of reasons.
Wayne can you tell me your (a lot) of reasons? I'm sure you know your stuff but I want to research for myself aswell, you may be wrong or I might educate myself :wink:
Cheers
-
The main reason is that engine flush tends to dislodge sediment that they can block oil feeds and pipes etc.
-
If you are adamant about using engine flush I would take the sump off and change the pick up pipe at the same time
-
I'm caught between a rock and hard place with this one.... Hmmm
-
I think a flush is really important and even necessary sometimes, but there are some who say that they would rather leave all the crap inside the engine preferring not to "dislodge" it from the side walls of the internal engine area.
Firstly, if any "sludge" fell off the inside walls of the engine it would fall into the sump, if somehow it would then manage to get sucked up into the engine oil the ways it would have to get trough to the really fine mesh that is on the bottom of the oil scavenge pick up filter (doubtful - if not impossible) but supposing it managed to get through the fine mesh on the pick up, it would then travel directly to the oil filter (that is what it is for) and there is NO WAY any crud can get through a paper centred oil filter, it isnt possible so lets not even go there.
So I dont listen to those that say "I would rather not in case it dislodged some crud on the inside of the engine".
The ONLY downside to having a engine flush is the cost and if you do it yourself then it's minimal to say the least.
Some say, They don't want their 1.8T "flush" going through their turbo's, it may damage them.
This is a fair point, but not a good one, We all know that the turbo's dont spool up until the engine gets to about 1500 -2000 RPM, and I DO NOT rev the engine up when on a flush, I always let the enigne run for 30 to 40 minutes on TICKOVER, I do not reccomend that you drive the car or rev it above 1500rpm whilst flushing.
-
Fresh oil and flush
(http://s25.postimg.org/j6yk444m7/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
pic host (http://postimage.org/)
-
After three flushes 70/30 ratio of gear oil and diesel
(http://s25.postimg.org/9c7exw0nz/image.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
screen shot on pc (http://postimage.org/app.php)
-
What's your thoughts now?
-
i used engine flush on my car last week with my oil change, not a 1.8t tho, a crappy 2ltr 8v. the oil change was over due, so used engine flush on tickover for 20minutes as per instructions. and new oil and filter. the car now runs a lot smoother, pulls nicer and im getting better mpg.
-
Good work! Oil flushes are good and necessary it's just doing them properly and taking all factors into consideration :cool:
-
In all fairness you are probably the exception to the 'general' rule because your engine was recently rebuilt
-
Just wondering why you used gear oil and diesel?
-
Gear oil is thicker than engine oil but is diluted with diesel, Diesel is pretty inert at low pressure, you can throw a match into a pool of Diesel and nothing will happen (except the match will go out).
Perhaps additives are good but it costs £10 per litre, Diesel is cheaper
About 2 litres of gear oil and 5 litres of diesel and run it through. Obviously without starting it, it's just for running through, the gear oil will protect the valve stem seals etc
-
I have used it for cleaning and freeing rusted threads for years, much cheaper and better than proprietary products
-
Good work! Oil flushes are good and necessary it's just doing them properly and taking all factors into consideration :cool:
I would still not recommend it on a 1.8t but your choice at the end of the day.
If you run the correct oil and change it every 5k, oil flush should not be needed.
-
Obviously without starting it, it's just for running through, the gear oil will protect the valve stem seals etc
I see.
I'd then be flushing out with fresh oil IMO, maybe I'm bias as I have 600 litres of oil sitting here. :grin:
-
If you have just rebuilt the full engine and the pathways are clear, I personally don't see the problem with using flush on a reg basis alongside the future servicing.
I will say, I would not dream putting flush in a high milage car that has never been flushed before.
My 2 cents.
-
I guess like someone pointed out earlier I have just had a full rebuild and new turbo, new oil sump was placed too with pick up pipe, I guess we all have our own reasons and opinions
-
I guess like someone pointed out earlier I have just had a full rebuild and new turbo, new oil sump was placed too with pick up pipe, I guess we all have our own reasons and opinions
I respect you have had a lot of work carried out but the cylinder block was not touched so you still run the chance of moving debris / sludge.
So no I would not have chanced flushing it.
-
I'm going to service the car at 1k miles from rebuild and see what compressions I get and the indication of the oil, as far as I'm concerned the car seems much more quiet and super steady on idle, Wayne it's a very documented and tested discussion about it being good/bad, although I sided with the idea of doing it I was only 90% confident with so much contradiction there is always an element of doubt.
I think the general rule should be not on a high mileage car and only on tick over?
I really would like a factual answer to this debate, I could be completely wrong but I need fact and proof to believe it.
-
The reason why people say it's not good is because manufacturer's need to protect themselves, statements in the owners manual are a liability issue. Why would a company say go ahead and use oil additives?
They would be on the hook for the warranty if some guy put paint thinner in there and drove around.
It is easier for them to make a blanket disclaimer like use no additives, then intoduce their own later if needed."
As far as I know, Aston Martin and Ford both use idle flushes?
-
I had my whole engine in the tank for cleaning at a machine shop after machine work was done.
-
I had my whole engine in the tank for cleaning at a machine shop after machine work was done.
Huh :huh:
-
Machine shops normally have the facility to clean engine parts, it's basically a large tank designed to house heads and blocks with some strong solvents. I normally have the head sent there before I do porting work and then again after the head is skimmed to get rid of any swarf or metal filings.
The whole engine was clean after I got the parts back from the machine shop, all the channels in the entire engine were clean. I'm also skeptical about off the shelf engine flushers, I question their effectiveness, it might remove some grime but just because the oil looks cleaner doesn't mean there isn't still carbon build up that it couldn't remove. Only way to know for sure is to see with the whole engine in pieces. There are limits as to how strong the solvent used in off the shelf flushers, otherwise the engine would effectively be running on water while the flusher is in there and the seals would be damaged.
-
My head during assembly
(http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j471/6rockmonkey9/19318E0F-FC14-44F7-ACFB-E7F733B2575B_zpsfjkrbzoy.jpg)
(http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j471/6rockmonkey9/6CCFDC05-3D59-4E02-A9E3-B9AE3B1772D6_zpstt2e8mxd.jpg)
-
I had this done too but I don't get the relevance to this discussion?
(http://s25.postimg.org/oz1w2vp0f/IMG_20140328_WA0000.jpg) (http://postimage.org/)
picture share (http://postimage.org/)
-
It made off the shelf cleaners redundant for me. There's no need for off the shelf cleaners when the whole engine had just been rebuilt and cleaned?