GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk6 => Topic started by: stanmoar on 29 March 2014, 22:13
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Hi folks, can you tell me what tools i need to remove the front Calipers on a Mk6 GTD??
Going to be doing the discs and pads soon but need to make sure i have the right tools first!!
Cheers
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Hi buddy no specialist tool required apart from the piston wind back tool think the front are allen bolts if i remember rightly easy job nothing to worry about just as an fyi make sure you clean the new discs with brake cleaner alot of people don't relise they come with a packing grease on them if you knew you knew if not i may of saved you life lol
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Cheers for that, i thought it was maybe a torque socket or something needed!!
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Nah mate can confirm for you in the morning exactly what size if its any good to you?
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Yea that would perfect cheers!!!
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7.0 mm allen key the screws have a dust cover over them :-)
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Cheers for that Matty
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You only need a wind back tool for the rear calipers.
Main niggle to watch out for when swapping discs is the pesky crosshead screw that holds the disc in place with the wheel off. Use an impact driver (one of those things you belt with a hammer) to crack the screw from the disc. They corrode in place and whilst you can drill them out its nicer to unscrew them.
Careful with the pad wear warning light plug on the n/s brake pad as well.
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Thanks Andygo
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So how do you get your front pistin back in andy? G-clamp? Use the wind back tool with a double depth in they are torx screws not phillps head
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So how do you get your front pistin back in andy? G-clamp? Use the wind back tool with a double depth in they are torx screws not phillps head
You just squeeze the piston on front calipers. If I'm changing discs and pads just use a flat head screwdriver, once the brake fluid cap is off just use the old pads against the old disc to squeeze the piston all the way back before dis-assembling the calipers.
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Pffft just as as easy to do it my way
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Don't forget to remove some fluid (if it's been topped up over time). You should be ok if the level of the fluid has gone down with the pads wearing. I was ok when I did mine.
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Don't forget to remove some fluid (if it's been topped up over time). You should be ok if the level of the fluid has gone down with the pads wearing. I was ok when I did mine.
Genuinely never had this issue neither have i had to remove reserviour cap if i'm doing it wrong then stupid me but i understand the theory
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Don't forget to remove some fluid (if it's been topped up over time). You should be ok if the level of the fluid has gone down with the pads wearing. I was ok when I did mine.
Genuinely never had this issue neither have i had to remove reserviour cap if i'm doing it wrong then stupid me but i understand the theory
If you don't remove the reservoir cap you can build pressure in the system which could result in popping a few seals in the calipers it's a closed system and your trying to compress it that's why you take of the cap to help relieve the pressure.
Also some garages where mechanics have become zombie technicians no longer have the brain cells to check weather low brake fluid means a pad change so when they see the fluid low they just top it up then when u go to change the pads u have excess fluid in the system which if not removed will just spill out.
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Hmmm can't say ever removed the cap either. I thought the pressure would find it's way back to the reservoir tank in the engine rising the level?
You say pop a seal how would you know?
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My arguement to that is your letting air into a sesled system by your reackoning
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Hmmm can't say ever removed the cap either. I thought the pressure would find it's way back to the reservoir tank in the engine rising the level?
You say pop a seal how would you know?
Well if you pop a seal on you caliper you brakes won't work and you will have brake fluid coming out the dust cover
Also as for letting air into the system your not letting any air in your just allowing a non pressurised path for the fluid to return back to the reservoir.
Everyone may not do it like this but that's how I was shown to do it properly, by a mechanic
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Here is a guide from another forum saying to open reservoir cap before pushing front or rear calipers back.
http://www.r32oc.com/topic/35696-fitting-brake-discs-and-pads/
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Here is a guide from another forum saying to open reservoir cap before pushing front or rear calipers back.
http://www.r32oc.com/topic/35696-fitting-brake-discs-and-pads/
This doesn't prove your point its just someone else who agrees with yo
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The Haynes manual says to open the bleed nipple to allow the displaced fluid from pushing the pistons back to be ejected. Always respected Haynes ever since I rebuilt a Mini gearbox with their help, so that's what I shall do.
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The Haynes manual says to open the bleed nipple to allow the displaced fluid from pushing the pistons back to be ejected. Always respected Haynes ever since I rebuilt a Mini gearbox with their help, so that's what I shall do.
Fact. :-)
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Ok.
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Well went one better and managed to get a full R32 brake set up!!! they are Mahooooosive
and can't wait to get them fitted!!!
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Happy days got a ttrs set up for mine :-)