GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk4 => Topic started by: Wye-Fi on 25 March 2014, 22:03
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Hi Guys! Im new here and posted a problem im having in the new members section. it was suggested i pop it on here for a bit more forum traffic. any help with any of my issues would be greatly recieved. look forward to chatting to some fellow golfers..
So here is my problem;
i have had a bit of rough idling lately on my 2000 mk4 AGU 1.8t GTi and slight loss in power/mpg. with thanks to many of you on here i traced the fault to the temp sensor using my newly aquirred scanner. went about replacing the sensor this morning and i has definitely made an improvement to the idle and bottom end power but it still seems to be hitting a flat spot mid rev range. SO BACK TO THE FORUM! after searching some more i have read that it could be a number of things causing it so i have checked the following:
-unplugged MAF, this made no difference to the driving of the car however it did cause the engine to nearly stall when plugged back in (im thinking this is prob normal??)
-checked all pipes and vacuum hoses, i came across a loud hissing coming from the front of the engine and noticed i had a split hose. see pic
(http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h221/chazzwye/2e571b96-32f1-4842-9e2f-6c2baaddb318_zps6a5d0799.jpg)
Can anybody please tell me what this hose is called please and what it does?? ive fixed the split temporarily but want to get a new one soon. fixing this has improved the idling even more i would say but hasnt fixed that flat spot. SO MORE SEARCHING!!
-Plugs & Leads all seem fine and there doesnt seem to be any misfire
-Now the interesting bit for me, the N75 valve. should unplugging this affect how my engine runs? ive unplugged it whilst it was running and it didnt make any difference at all (Is this like the MAF and no change is good or is this a sign mines faulty??) Also upon inspection ive noticed that one of the wires on the n75 plug is damaged slightly right by the plug itself, it doesnt look broken though, any ideas on a good fix for this? new lead/plug maybe?
(http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h221/chazzwye/d8f2cedc-1185-4135-b6e1-a82f6120bb5d_zps67cd582a.jpg)
-Randoms- every now and then i notice a fast ticking noise coming from what i think is a vacuum pump tucked over near the washer/header tanks. IS THIS NORMAL?? im not so sure as i used to own an Audi with what i think is pretty much the same engine and that didnt make the noise when it was running fine but it did start making that ticking not long before it died??
(http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h221/chazzwye/bd79dfc9-8c1e-4926-b3cf-3155d059f46f_zpsf686e3e3.jpg)
And Lastly (phew) I have had a look but cant seem to find an image with what i want in it. at the rear of the engine bay is a small bunch of electrics. it isnt mounted properly to its bracket or there are parts missing to enable it to be mounted and its just held on with a cable tie. can anyone show me what it should look like when mounted properly plz?? (Also what is this)
(http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h221/chazzwye/310d7b42-9ef8-4665-bb74-6535f77a1980_zpsfa6a04e6.jpg)
If during my searching there is anything you think ive missed a quick nod would be most appreciated.
Thanks in advance guys and keep up the good work, look forward to getting my horses back under the bonnet.
Kind Regards, Chazz. (Wye-Fi)
Cheeeeeerrs!!
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Thats a oil breather pipe which has spilt ive just removed all mine and fitted a oil catch can ill have a look tomorrow at the part no. Then u can contact vw and order part, that n75v is a boost solinoid if the wire is damaged u will need to get that sorted, the other part ur looking at is a charcoal canistor and is suposed to click can also be removed, look in the maintenance section for more info on that, p.s welcome aboard
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And that part which is cable tied is the ignition amp which is normally mounted on the airbox but if induction filter fitted its put out the way mine is also tied on down that area as long as its secure there its fine : )
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I've edited your first post to include the information from your post in the new members section.
As Daz says, it looks like a breather hose, part numbers are here:
(http://store.034motorsport.com/images/ETKA_AWM_PCV.jpg)
With regards to the MAF, if it is working correctly there should be a noticeable difference when it is unplugged. If there is no difference when it is unplugged then that suggests it is not working correctly.
I'd replace the N75 wiring, if the valve itself was faulty then boost should be spiky which would be noticeable on full throttle.
Also as Daz says ,the ticking is perfectly normal, it's the carbon canister and deals with fuel vapours. The ignition amp is fine as long as it's secure.
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Thanks!
I'll look into it, feels like I've found faults in each area that could cause my problems. Hope it doesn't end up costing me a fortune.
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It's a bit weird as around where I live in 1st/2nd it'll pull like mad up to say 2000rpm then hit an annoying flat spot. I'm gonna try disconnecting the maf again tomorrow and take it for a bit more of a drive. Will the ecu have to adjust to this before I notice a change of will it be instant? It literally made no difference earlier when I went round the block in it (1mile max)
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Have you had it scanned for fault codes ?
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Ive scanned it myself but only got 1 code:
(http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h221/chazzwye/0FF23708-C9F4-4D8E-A5AA-7DF890F99DA6_zpsygsfihs0.jpg)
Since replacing the sensor i've erased this code and now dont have any engine codes.
only code im getting elsewhere is for "Airbag B tensioner not active" and i think this may have been turned off using something like vagcom for a child seat. is that correct do you know?
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just took the MAF off as it made no difference to the driving whether plugged in or not. The inside was filthy dirty with an oily residue? I fixed my mums ford puma splutter once by cleaning the MAF and so thought id give it a shot. (nothing to lose) Before i started i couldn't read any info on the sensor inside the unit as it was covered in this oily sh#t. also i presume what are sensors on the other side of the circuit board piece weren't visable either. look how dirty it was!!! :shocked:
(http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h221/chazzwye/Mobile%20Uploads/04393F70-C65D-4855-BCDE-854E1001AECD_zps1la7tkzw.jpg)
All this came from the inside. haven't started on the outside yet.
Hoping this will make a difference. The inside of the filter is spotless though. thinking this MAF maybe the original. would a genuine one be a bosch unit??
Also with regards to engine codes, i did get codes for the N75 and MAF after id unplugged them which makes me think that wire isn't broken on the N75 else id be getting that same code with it plugged it???
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The pipe you listed is part of the PCV system, rip it all out and fit a catch can.
Temp sender - get a new one
And in regards to the MAF its probably not a genuine one, I don't use genuine ones but you should really, the reason I don't use a genuine one is that VW states if the car is modified BHP wise then they wont offer the guarantee they normally offer!
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Ive replaced the temp sensor already with a brand new one. took the pic^^ before i changed it. made a big difference.
Just took it for a spin with the top hose off of the N75 and bingo. perfect. was only gentle with it tho but it felt smooth and responsive. got a new one on the way now, picked up a genuine one for £41 new. pretty happy with that. will def post back here with the results once thats fitted.
Any links to an oil catch can would be cool. not looking to spend a fortune on one tho :)
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When you say flat spot is it like abit of power then splutters, i had this issue on my old golf which there was no fault codes and after buying a new maf and other bits turned out ignition amp had burnt out just a suggestion thats the part thats been took off the airbox and cable tied on
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Ignore my reply if u have sorted it haha look maintenance section above for catchcan can install
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Not fixed yet lol. From what you've just said i'm definitely going to look into that. thanks for your advice :)
After a bit more driving with the N75 hose off im not so sure now. the one on there was definitely not moving though and when i was revving it i couldn't see my actuator moving, it was easy enough to move by hand but didn't see it move when i was revving it at all both with and without the N75??
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...and yes its exactly that. when its boosting etc it flies! but at about 2-3 rpm it sputters and with a bit of twitching of the throttle it'll pick up again.
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AGU picks up boost between 2-3k rpm
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it seems to be just after it starts to boost, its nice and responsive from the off, then splutters a bit. can i post a video on here?
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I unplugged ignition amp and sprayed contact cleaner on that worked for abit but it must off over heated as its not ment to get hot worth a try but if i remember rightly was around £80 for a new 1 from euro carparts, that was a couple year back, mine started on the way gti international 2yr ago half way there drove great stopped at maccy d's set of again and was sh!t had it plugged in whilst was at the show no codes come up had drive no boost all way home : ( spluttered and hesitant but then it kicked in then spluttered etc etc
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was around £80 for a new 1
How much! :grin: Hope mine doesn't go
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does sound like that, and its one of the bits ive been a bit suspicious of as it was just flapping around. ive cable tied it up out of the way next to the air filter, i did spray contact cleaner on it and in the plugs etc. may go for a rummage at the scrappy for one of them.
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All your answers to your faults are the advice i would have also given but one more point regarding your ignition amp as said they are fixed onto the standard airbox side i notice yours has an induction kit and your amp is left hanging out the way albeit plugged in,ideally it needs fixing securely to something solid and some HEATSINK compound applied to the rear of the amp this is how the standard fitment is done,this helps draw away excessive heat build from the amp when being driven as there's no heatsink on yours im guessing then your amp is most likely getting to hot giving you the symptoms your getting :wink:
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It looks like the heatsink is still on it but it's not secured very well...
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The plot thickens... Took a trip to the scrappy this morning and picked up a Ignition Amp, new harness for the N75 and replacement oil breather hose plus some engine cover clips, all for £3!!! :grin:
Gonna put them on this afternoon. Also just put some slick50 in the tank to see if that helps.
On the way home i noticed that my temp gauge is still dropping off to nearly 0 though??? (doesnt seem to do this around town only on main roads) Thinking my thermostat is fooked now. would that cause me problems like im having at the mo??
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ps I put the new ignition amp on at the scrappy so i dont think its that causing my probs...
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Been busy with this today, ive changed the wiring on the N75 so that is no longer an issue, fitted the new N75. Replaced the oil breather pipe and mounted the ignition amp back where it belongs. got hold of an air box to butcher and came up with this... works pretty well i think.
(http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h221/chazzwye/Mobile%20Uploads/B6CB4C6F-F238-40DA-B092-39B42967CB32_zpskalicrnz.jpg).
Problem is, its still not running right. gonna wait now for my cable to turn up so i can plug it into VagCom-lite.
Thought id sussed it but noooo.
Think i may go for a longer run to get the slick50 doing its thing and see what the temp gauge is doing. i had it running for a good 1\2 hr earlier and the temp gauge was sitting at 90 and the fans were kicking in every now and then. would it do that with a faulty thermostat?? Also the air temp from the blowers was red hot but on the way home earlier when the gauge was reading low the air was a fair bit cooler. Do you have to remove the alternator to get to the thermostat. looks a bit of a b*tch to get at.
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I've lost track of what you have and haven't done, have you done anything with the MAF? Checked that the throttle body is clean?
I like what you've done with the bottom of the airbox, good solution :afro:
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yeah i gave the MAF a good clean, it was filthy inside.
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do i need a new gasket to refit the inlet manifold? and is that the mr muscle trick to clean it??
Cheers for you help by the way :wink:
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Mr Muscle is an epic cleaner :wink: cleaned my vr valves and pistons incredibly!
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so, after a bit of faffing i got my cable to work with vcds lite. i scanned the car for faults and this is what came up...
(http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h221/chazzwye/Mobile%20Uploads/C2F22ADD-7FB8-4A75-B0DA-8EB79819A8E8_zpsm3fjwhwy.jpg)
Should i be alarmed by the bits that say;
Labels: Redir Fail!
and
Readiness N/A
?? :undecided:
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VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Friday, 28 March 2014, 18:43:05.
Chassis Type: 1J - VW Golf/Bora IV
Scan: 01,02,03,08,15,16,17,19,22,29,35,36,37,39,46,47,55,56,57,75,76
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Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Controller: 06A 906 018 CG
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT MOTR HS D02
Coding: 04000
Shop #: WSC 00000
VCID: 69A53EA70061
No fault code found. DOES THIS MEAN I HAVE A FAULT WITH MY ECU???
Readiness: N/A
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 1J0-907-37x-ABS.LBL
Controller: 1J0 907 379 Q
Component: ABS/EDS 20 IE CAN 0001
Coding: 13504
Shop #: WSC 01317 DOES THIS MEAN I HAVE A FAULT WITH MY ABS????
VCID: 3FF1C0FF2E65
No fault code found.
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No fault code found is a good thing :wink:
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Thanks dom, PHEW! so what is this referring to? is it just telling me its scanned these items and found nothing?? It did pop up earlier with the temp sensor implausable signal fault but i cleared that because i replaced the temp sensor the other day. thought my ecu was buggered for a min. although i've heard that some people have had patterned temp sensors that haven't worked properly.
How bad can these things make your car run when they go because mine is running like a bag of poo. changing it has def improved starting and idle but my gauge is still dropping right down on open roads and i can only boost for a few seconds before it feels like i have some sort of blockage and it holds right back.
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Just to clarify because ive checked quite alot....
*Replaced Coolant temp sensor (as per fault code on my scanner) came up again on vagcom again today?
*Checked for air leaks- found one and replaced hose/pipe.
*Replaced N75 valve as old one was really stiff.
*Found broken wire going to N75. Replaced wiring & harness
*Found Ignition amp dangling on a cable tie - remounted a replacement ignition amp back in its original place. have swapped these a few times (same 2) and made no difference.
*Disconnected MAF, no difference in driving. also gave this a good clean.
*Added fuel treatment (slick50) had a good drive on open roads for 40+ miles working the throttle to try n clear the system.
*Checked wiring to N75. 0volts with no ignition, 5-6volts with ignition??
in my mind the things i want to check the lite version of vagcom wont let me do.
i want to check the N75, TPS(does the cable throttle AGU have 1?). check fuel system(filters, injectors, valves). double,double check the ignition (surely my software would spot a misfire?) thermostat? inlet manifold, actuator and turbo. the reason i ask about the TPS or equivilent is because i fitted my amp&stereo not long ago and had the battery off the car for quite a few hours(been reading up). would this of reset the TPS and need calibrating again or are they self calibrating??(if i have 1)
I know its alot to take in but i cant bear it getting the better of me. i know a fair bit about cars and what can cause similar symptons to mine but this has left me baffled...
Last thing guys, on vagcom, if the values of what you are reading are GREEN is this a good reading?? do they turn RED when they're too high or low. again thanks for any input on this. youre help is much appreciated.
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FINALLY FIXED IT!!! It has taken me ages to find the fault causing my problems but today I found the little bugger. It was the fuel pressure regulator!!! I have basically had a combination of things wrong causing it to not run properly. But now they're all sorted and it's running sweet again!! Here's a little list of what I found wrong and rectified 1 by 1.
-coolant temp sensor x3! 2 dodgy cheap ones (live and learn) and a genuine one.
-various vacuum & PVC hose leaks, all dodgy hoses replaced, 1 under the fannymould had a hole I could put my finger in!
-N75 valve was seized solid. Bought a new genuine 1 also replaced dodgy wiring to N75.
-Ignition amp was getting too hot as it was just dangling on its wire so I cut up an old air box and mounted a new one properly next to my air filter.
-Thermostat stuck. Replaced with genuine new one.
and finally....
-Fuel pressure regulator, the one in there was a patterned part and the hole in it is considerably smaller than the genuine one I fitted today.
Glad I stuck with it, not sure how it was even running with all the problems it had. Each fault I fixed made an improvement to the starting/running of the car but it was still holding back and not pulling very well at all. In a way I'm glad I didn't fix the fpr 1st as I probably would of left the rest of the faults without realising (except the coolant temp cos the gauge was playing up).
So I'd like to say a BIG THANK YOU to everyone who has posted all the useful info on this forum that I've trawled through night after night trying to get to the bottom of my problems. My local VW dealers (carrs) were pretty useless, paid them £45 for a plug in and they didn't have a clue. Then I took it to a local vw "specialist" who told me over the phone that I was getting a VAGCOM plug-in but didn't take it to his garage that day so couldn't read any live data and basically told me the same as vw did. Now I just need a new battery cos having to start it twice most times for the last god knows how long has taken it's toll, dear of it. Soz for the rant but I'm soooo chuffed I fixed it myself with the help of you guys. Thanks again.
Chazz. (Happy motorist) :)
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You'll need all your problem solving ninja skills owning a golf :grin:
oh and a Halfords Pro Toolkit :laugh: