GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Sgt_Lemon on 21 January 2014, 19:49
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I'm biting the bullet and taking the car to a garage to do some diagnostic on the car. It has been progressively running worse and worse and with a 50 mile commute everyday I can't afford to be breaking down.
Does anyone know of any good garages that know mk2's in my area- farnborough/frimley (Hampshire/surrey)?
Depending on the info I get I will probs tackle most of it myself if possible.
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what do you mean by your car is getting worse? what symptoms have you got?
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Lump idle, hunting, bad fuel economy, lack of power, drinking coolant, extremely high hydrocarbons, slight blue smoke when under load, won't start again if switched off soon after starting, kangaroos when cold, temp light that comes on and off on its own. There is probably some that I have forgotten about. The list keeps getting longer over time.
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First port of call, from what you've described, have the head gasket checked! sorting anything else first may well be a waste of time!
Thom
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run your engine with coolant cap off and if you see a steady stream of bubbles then your heads gona have to come off. also take out your spark plugs and check them for any variation in colour or build up of deposits.and while you have them out get your pistons to tdc and check the tops with a torch. if one or more pistons looks really clean then your gasket is likely failed. oh and did you renew the valve stem oil seals in the head before you fitted it?
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I will have a look if there is a nothing in at work.
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Only managed to get 3 of the plugs out. Reckon with the coolant leaking it's over heated causing the head gasket to go. Limped home as it wasn't firing on all cylinders. I'm reluctant to change the head gasket though as it was running sh!t before hand and I don't want to waste the time and money to return it to a sh!t running car.
Ignoring the current fault what else could have been causing it to run so bad? I had the timing and mix sorted, ICV had been checked, vac leaks checked, blue temp replaced, earths checked, compression even. The hydorcarbons are still really high. Could never work out how to fix the throttle closed switch on tb. And the exhaust is blowing and now rattling loads.
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But you have to start with the head gasket! get the last plug out, and do a compression test!
Thom
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I want to find out whether the coolant leak was external and caused the head gasket to go or if the gasket went and then started to drain coolant. No point changing the gasket to then cook another with a hard to find external leak. Any tips to finding a slow external leak? It's what I initially thought as it was draining and leaving oil marks on the drive but I couldn't trace it.
Really not looking forward to timing the whole thing again, should do cam belt while it's off and water pump. All this just to return it to its former poor running self haha :undecided:
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But you have to start with the head gasket! get the last plug out, and do a compression test!
Thom
THIS.
Also check for mayo residue on the dipstick.
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I want to find out whether the coolant leak was external and caused the head gasket to go or if the gasket went and then started to drain coolant. No point changing the gasket to then cook another with a hard to find external leak. Any tips to finding a slow external leak? It's what I initially thought as it was draining and leaving oil marks on the drive but I couldn't trace it.
Really not looking forward to timing the whole thing again, should do cam belt while it's off and water pump. All this just to return it to its former poor running self haha :undecided:
If the engine overheated with an external leak or broken water pump then there is a chance of a blown gasket. I've had my temp up to 140 when I lost coolant (split hose) and the next day it was fixed with just a new pipe.
Honestly just get it compression tested first. An external leak would be obvious and if it's not that...chances are its as you say...internal (blown gasket)
Very easy to change but garage should charge £250?
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Changed the sparks and ht leads and got it running back to normal. Got a coil ordered to refresh the ignition system (had new dizzy cap and arm not too long ago).
It runs alright, still having problems with the throttle switches on the tb but will sort at a later date. The oil is all clear of sludge or coolant, the pistons are all black with no coolant marks. With the coolant cap off it doesn't bubble much (no coolant left so had to fill up and I suspect some radweld is still washing around causing some bubbles). The heater blows fully hot and cold also.
Still can't find the coolant leak though, are there any hoses that are hidden away anywhere or perhaps a radiator leak? Unless it gets really cold I reckon I can run it by adding water everyday but need to find the leak.
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As Mr blue says, check and see theirs no milkiness in the dipstick or inside your rocker cover because its sounding like your head gasket matey, check all the hoses and housings to the block for leaks the most common is at the bottom of the block where your thermostat sits check around the housing for cracks as this is pressurized, mine had a very fine crack and i had it of twice before i finally found it :smiley:
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I have checked the oil, still looking clean. No milk invests in sight. Just a sneaky coolant leak that only seems to leak when the engine is off, and leak slowly at that.
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Any anti freeze in there? Use the pink anti freeze. Any leaks can be seen. Also check behind the block. Had a few 8v's with weeping core plugs.
or coolant dye but not tried it myself.