GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: Bully195 on 07 January 2014, 21:03
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Hi
New to the forum as I've just got a 96 cabriolet gti 8v with engine code aag
It has a problem with cutting out when it has reached normal running temp 90, so it can be within 5 min if it's warm or last night it was 40 min and a few runs up the road then leaving it to tick over before it did it.
What it does is a can rev it then revs drop and it cuts out, I can start it straight away with full revs but then it just goes to high revs, drops and cuts again instantly and won't stop until it's left to cool down again.
Help would be much appreciated, I think the previous owner has fitted new dizzy n leads already, the engine has only done 80k and seems to run nice apart from this and idle fluctuations but I assume throttle body clean will sort idle prob!!
Cheers all
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Sounds like the crank sensor to me.
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SEARCH
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http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=101400.0
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96 cabriolet gti 8v ???.I did'nt think there was such a model ????.
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As said, search.
Anyway clean the throttle with carb cleaner. If problem still there then replace the ecu relay if problem still there replace the fuel pump relay. If problem still there then go for the crank sensor
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Thanks guys, I have researched it But a lot of the problems with cutting out are within first few seconds or minutes or whilst driving but they are starting again straight away! This is happening when the engine has got up to temp and then it's seems to happen when goes slightly passed this point and fan kicks in......then it cuts and won't restart just cuts instantly until cooled down again!
I will try the elimination process over the weekend both the relays have already been swapped as they where very warm!!
Is there a test I could do for the crank sensor?
Cheers again
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Thanks guys, I have researched it But a lot of the problems with cutting out are within first few seconds or minutes or whilst driving but they are starting again straight away! This is happening when the engine has got up to temp and then it's seems to happen when goes slightly passed this point and fan kicks in......then it cuts and won't restart just cuts instantly until cooled down again!
I will try the elimination process over the weekend both the relays have already been swapped as they where very warm!!
Is there a test I could do for the crank sensor?
Cheers again
Google U281 code reader, buy one, plug it in, scan engine, look up code(s), go to ecp and buy bits, take most of them back as they dont fit, lose temper with counter staff, buy from somewhere proper, fit, drive car again.
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Google U281 code reader, buy one, plug it in, scan engine, look up code(s), go to ecp and buy bits, take most of them back as they dont fit, lose temper with counter staff, buy from somewhere proper, fit, drive car again.
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Right bought this and performed scan which threw up code 00515 camshaft position sensor (Hall effect sensor)- short to b+(g40): check CMP, if ok replace distributor!
I deleted this and it was ok when started up time after time with no more codes, so I ran it up for 40 min again until fans came on again then it cut out again and the same fault code has now reappeared?
What needs replacing and is the timing possible out? My friend looked at it with timing light but am I correct in believing timing has to be done with vagcam?
Cheers
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if it comes up with hall effect sensor then that's in the dizzy... i.e. dizzy replacement.
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I had a similar problem with my 8v run around.
Replaced HT leads, rotor arm and something else I can't remember after a few beers! However that wasn't the cause.
Clean the throttle body thoroughly and you should be fine. This won't show up on any vagcom fault codes bit will save you lots of cash.
Try it
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dirty TB won't cause short to plus fault.
it's either hall sender or the wiring.... wiring can be found out with multimeter, hall sender itself can be tested but if the fault is intermittent it's more difficult.
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Does the oil light flash, if so this is the crank angle sensor, had exactly the same problem with mine.
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Try this run your golf up to normal temp turn on every thing ie wipers heater lights and electric rear window run the engine above 2,000 revs and then put a multi meter on your battery if it goes bellow 12v then cutts out when the fans cut in it could be your alternator output if you have clamp to read the amps even better.
You did say that the fault cleared then happened 40 mins later when the fans cut in
Just a thought
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problem with the hall senders is they break up when hot causing miss fires/stalling etc and will run fine when they cool down again, wiring is normally a less intermittent fault but still worth checking as the wiring becomes brittle with age!
I can supply a delco (reman) unit for £189 delivered exchange or a budget unit at £105 exchange (both have 2 yr warranty)
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Has the timing been done recently?
I always check this when I get a hs fault, if the dizzy is out it shows as a hs fault.
Your showing a short so it most likely is but worth checking
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I think mine has the same issues.
1995 Mk3 2L 8v.
Warms up nicely till it gets to 90deg c. If you rev it up slowly and take your foot off the accelerator, it dies.
I've replaced:
MAF
Temp sender unit
Fuel Relay
order a new Hall Sensor - coming on monday
Found the coil pack has a dodgy earth strap. Where can I buy a new one? Could this be the cause?
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Could be coil pack itself.
You could make an earth strap out of a bit of amp power lead with a couple of crimp connectors,if not a good motor factors will have one.