GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: sharki786 on 01 January 2014, 15:18
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hi all. im having right mare with the brakes. i changed pads and discs and changed the rear calipers to the mk4 ones. now when i changed everything i got air into the system. i bled all 4 brakes, that made f all difference so we then bled the abs unit which made a tiny bit of difference. now i still have poor brakes. my unc who is a mechanic said change the master cylinder as the seals inside the cylinder are fooked. the problem is that when i use my brakes they start to fade and braking becomes sh1te. my foot is nearly to the bottom and if i push the brake pedal more its right to the bottom. i didnt have this problem before i changed the brake pads and discs.
could anyone shed any light on this?
its the agg engine 2.0 gti
thanks
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when you say you got air in do you mean the reservoir went dry?? if so have you bled the master cylinder?? i take it that when you were bleeding the rear brakes you had the brake compensator held open?
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think the master cylinder went dry as i left it open but im not positive.
dont think there is a compensator on the mk3 gti. the car is a 1996 anniversary.
how do i bleed the master cylinder?
also i have noticed that i topped the bottle up a few months ago and have just noticed that its on low. think there is a leak but aint noticed one anywere
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You still have a lot of air in the system
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Get a mate to help you bleed them. Start with driver rear and bleed it 10+ times (keep topping up with fluid) then same with passenger rear. Then driver front. And passenger front last. Put about 1/2 litre through it.
Always check and top up fluid.
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Bleed the brakes again after activating the abs either with vc (best) or by braking on a loose surface a few times.
Seeing as you had no issues before I would say it would be really unlucky to have a duff master, be sure you have air free brakes before you change the master cylinder they are not cheap and quite fiddly.
I always use a different colour fluid to bleed through when I am having brake bleeding issues, a pressure bleeder helps a lot. I also stay away from the abs if I can help it.
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Get a mate to help you bleed them. Start with driver rear and bleed it 10+ times (keep topping up with fluid) then same with passenger rear. Then driver front. And passenger front last. Put about 1/2 litre through it.
Always check and top up fluid.
Mate or mum with a cuppa and her slippers on really helps :grin:
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My mates dad said same. I have air in the system. Is there a way of testing the master cylijder?
Im going to get the lads to use the ezibleed thing
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My mates dad said same. I have air in the system. Is there a way of testing the master cylijder?
Im going to get the lads to use the ezibleed thing
Yes you can pressure test the flow side with a gauge to see if it holds pressure, will show up a straight fault at least.
Had any fluid on the top of the pedal linkage?
I reckon you just let a load of air in at the callipers and abs unit :smiley:
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I have lost some fluid but i aint seen a leak anywere. Well ezibleed will pressurise the system wont it?
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I have lost some fluid but i aint seen a leak anywere. Well ezibleed will pressurise the system wont it?
How do you know you lost some? (not being rude)
Was it just low when you came to top up or did you notice a loss over a couple of weeks?
Check the pedal end of the MC for fluid :smiley:
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No i topped it up to the max line a few months ago and i looked today and its on minimum.
Im goi g to check it today.
My mates dad said to me that im not ment to have wound the rear calipers all the way in?
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Well if you have air in the system some of it might have escaped, so the fluid takes its place. Gravity will still do its job :wink:
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They have been like thay for a few months now. Its not happened in the past few weeks. Thats why i dont drive my car. If you say the fluid had replaced the air then why are my brakes still poo?
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Replace some air not all.
Plus the level will go down as the pads wear down. The pistons will be further out and will have more fluid in the calipers.
Was your pads low when the level was low?
Still poo because you still have air in them.
Ive always wound the rear pistons all the way in and always been fine. Few pushes on the brake pedal or use the handbrake a few times and they push out to where they need to be.
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With my old pads the level was on max. But when i changed the pads i also did a fluid change from dot 4 to dot 5.1
I am going to take it for re bleeding
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Could someone tell me how to test the servo plz! Want to get it off my mind
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Servo is fine.
Rebleed and check for leaks. I had a Transit Connect which stopped fine but pedal went down only with servo assistance. Turned out to have the tinyest tinyest hole in a brake line.
Eezibleed system is good. I'd like the find a professional version. Vacuum ones are crap.
I've never had issue with ABS having air inside with the Eezibleed. If you have abs you won't have a compensator.
Just bleed and bleed and bleed. You'll be surprised just as you think yep no air, tonnes comes out.
That eezibleed system is far better than pushing the pedal down IMO as I've had 100% success rate after a corrado didn't wanna bleed when new lines put on, the eezibleed is so much quicker.
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Ok i will get the ezibleed onto it. Thanks for the info. As i have mk4 rear calipers is there any special way to bleed them? As i have heard that they are very hard to bleed due to where the nipple is?
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All the nipples are pointing up, yes?
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All the nipples are pointing up, yes?
This could be funny
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:grin: :laugh: tweed dirty boi :laugh:
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Get an eezibleed,put tubes on all four nipples,connect to spare tyre with 40 psi in it,undo all 4 bleed nipples one after the other (so they are ALL open) but ONLY just enough so brake fluid comes through.Start undoing them at passenger rear then drivers rear then front passenger and then drivers side front.Keep an eye on eezibleed fluid container but do'nt worry if it goes right to the bottom as you still have a master cylinder full of fluid.
Doing all four at the same time gives the air no choice but to leave the premises :laugh:
You can nip the nips up at any time if you need to top up but remove pressure pipe from tyre each time you do.
Wheres that air ????.Oh,it's gone :whistle:
If you still have a problem then im guessing your master cylinder is leaking through the rear seals so you will have brake fluid in your servo.
Good luck.
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Sealey do one for about £115 with all the bits, on ebay its about half price and well worth having :wink:
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Well i just got back from the garage and we replaced the rear 2 brake pipes. Bloody ezibleed broke in my hand. The tube that goes from the tyre to the bottle broke. So we was left to "manual" bleed them. Well even worse now. So will have to go back tomz and see if we can fix the ezibleed and try again. The pedal gets near enough to the bottom before i get decent brakes. So it still has air in it. Also we checked all the points were we replaced the pipes and no leaks. Also no leak on the back of the brake pedal.
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You might have a master cylinder problem.
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Well im going to bleed again with the eezibleed kit and see what happens from there.
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You might have a master cylinder problem.
Im starting to think this too.
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You might have a master cylinder problem.
Im starting to think this too.
If it is dont buy fom a breakers unless its got a ticket, recon/exchange or new (££££) is best where brakes are concerned.
I've bought ones from the breakers in worse state than the one its intended to replace, handy for buying exchange units but a waste in the end :grin:
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They are a lot for the 16v twice as much as a 8v iirc
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All the nipples are pointing up, yes?
This could be funny
Sharki you havnt answered this question,have you got the calipers on the correct sides? nips up?
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All the nipples are pointing up, yes?
This could be funny
Sharki you havnt answered this question,have you got the calipers on the correct sides? nips up?
Sorry screech mate, ye they are pointing up. U could put them wrong side but the hand brake cable gets funny to put on.
Well tried with the eezibleed. No luck. The pedal is soft 3/4 way down and then bites before it goes to the bottom and if i push anymore then its the end of the travel. Well i was speaking with mad4vws and he has a few. Which make should i get if i buy a new one? I could buy a refurb kit from bigg red and replace the worn seals?
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Just get a good working secondhand one off mad :wink:
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Just get a good working secondhand one off mad :wink:
How can i check to see if the servo is ok and not loosing pressure??
Could the 16v & vr owners tell me where the pipe comes from for the hydro clutch? Is it the clear bottle, were you put the brake fluid in?
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P.s what size is the piston is it 23mm? And which has the largest piston on the mk3?
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Pipe comes off the side of the brake res for the hydro clutch,biggest master cylinder will be the later 96 onwards with 288 brakes
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Pipe comes off the side of the brake res for the hydro clutch,biggest master cylinder will be the later 96 onwards with 288 brakes
Its fitted to all 16v and vr6.
I had 280mm brakes on my 95 abf but had the big master cylinder.
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Just thinking about replacing the master cylinder. But i am VERY close in buying a vr6 and dumping that in there thats why i asked were the pipe comes off for the clutch