GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Mcwill on 12 December 2013, 21:08
-
Hi guys, will a front strut brace fit ok with abf engine?
-
A 16v brace might clear but I would be more concerned about drilling into the top struts. Rust and permanent holes.
-
Thanks for reply mr blue, dint think about the drilling into the top struts and thinking about it the passanger side one has got a blob of rust on it :huh: dam it ordered one now :angry:
-
A 16v brace might clear but I would be more concerned about drilling into the top struts. Rust and permanent holes.
Don't they fit over the existing strut mountings?
Thom
-
Need to drill holes in turret for the base plates. Not a big deal really, just treat the bare metal. Front brace makes a fair difference on a mk2
Only brace i know that clears it would be an eibach. It might be tight with others, i know my omp one is tight and its not a tall back 2.0
-
The one I have ordered is the jom one so doesn't sound like it will fit :angry:
-
Possible dumb question. How does putting a strut between the two top plates (not the suspension itself) help the handling? Is it worth getting one?
-
Possible dumb question. How does putting a strut between the two top plates (not the suspension itself) help the handling? Is it worth getting one?
Not a dumb question at all, you either know, or you don't
Basically, it stiffens the chassis, so under hard cornering you get a more precise feel to the car... very much placebo effect on a road car though that has one fitted with no other, or little other chassis/suspension mods,
A brace can also be fitted that connects the lower track control arms transversely under the car, for the same reasons, rigidity.
A strut brace can also be fitted in the boot, linking the rear struts together...
Thom
-
As above, stops the body flexing.
Personally, if you're bothered get a lower one for the subframe, you'll get more noticeable gains from this and you're not drilling holes in a place you will later regret! Struts braces in engine bays look terrible IMO and especially on an old classic car, they don't want more holes drilling in them :cry:
-
TBH for a strut brace to make significant difference the mounting plates should be welded to the strut tops, not bolted/screwed to them. That's just ghey.
-
For a car that has been lowered then is an additional strut brace a good idea? I quite like the idea of having one mounted on the rear struts just hidden under the parcel shelf. Also the lower subframe one just sounds like an anti roll bar.
-
Front upper works well, front lower not so well, rear works well also especially if you find one that triangulates like the neuspeed one
front lower mounts between two front wishbone bolts, so if your bushes are knackered/soft itll keep it feeling tighter. And make sure you get a steel lower one if buying one.
Uprated rollbars are a different kettle of fish and you feel them far more than any brace.
All the compenents all add up to a very responsive handling car
springs
shocks
rollbars
braces
bushes
-
It's not like a roll bar as it's not stopping roll, it's stopping flex.
I personally think the cost of buying one and bolting it to your car is far too much to justify fitting one in the bay!
A rear one would be the best place to fit a brace.
Solid (not just poly) bushes are the best mod with a good set of roll bars
-
Polybushes on the front of a Golf2 are not a good idea, as has been proven by various people with track cars.
TT bushes on the back of the control arms, plus stitch-welding the control arms are what makes the difference.