GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk5 => Topic started by: th3_f15t on 11 September 2013, 12:56
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Hey guys, me again. I'm starting to think ahead about some engine tweaking for my 2.0T-FSI engine (2007 Golf GTI), but need some advice.
So far I've planned a re-map of my ECU, a K&N panel filter in the stock air intake and a Miltek exhaust. My aim is not to have as much BPH as possible, but more along the lines of smooth and available power. I'd be happy with 240BHP, as long as whenever I want to go, I just plant my foot and it goes.
So now I've fitted the DV+ and a K&N filter, looking at some other bits now. Mainly a PCV valve delete (see page 3 for latest questions and links).
30/10/2013 - NEW QUESTION (page 3). Big thanks to all the help and feedback so far, been amazing! So much friendly and free advice, owe a few beers during the next show season I think!
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http://www.golfgtiforum.co.uk/index.php?topic=242046.0 :wink: get your car up to these guys
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Interesting read that. I noticed that it mentioned about replacing something to the latest version, but I'm confused to what exactly it is that was replaced. Can you point me in the direction of a post (or web page/article) that explains what was the known weak spot?
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diverter valve VW have brought out a new revision Part No: 06H 145 710 D. they are known to fail but forge do 1 for it to :smiley:
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It is a good idea to replace the original DV with the uprated one from VW, its cheap to do and gives you peace of mind. I remapped mine with superchips bluefin, very easy to do and gave a worthwhile spread of power, good for overtaking. You will get horrible axle tramp getting away from the lights fast though, that's why VW use 4WD for the fast versions of the GTI.
Front wheel tyres make a big difference for the traffic light GP. Poor ones and your wheels will spin, good ones and your wheels go Bang Bang Bang as the front axle bounces up and down.
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How much is the Volkswagen part vs. the Forge unit? And is it a job that an amateur mechanic could achieve with a standard socket set and a driveway? I can do full services myself and a few repair jobs but nothing too involved.
If replacing this part means I'll have reliable power of around 240BHP then I'll factor it in before a re-map and new exhaust as it'll be a priority in my mind.
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How much is the Volkswagen part vs. the Forge unit? And is it a job that an amateur mechanic could achieve with a standard socket set and a driveway? I can do full services myself and a few repair jobs but nothing too involved.
If replacing this part means I'll have reliable power of around 240BHP then I'll factor it in before a re-map and new exhaust as it'll be a priority in my mind.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BiBqDcWSYCU :wink:
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Cheers for that link. Looks straight forward enough to do, but I may just get someone to do it when it's up on the ramps next time. :-)
Apart from this DV, are there any other weak spots in the engine that I should at least be aware of before re-mapping my ECU?
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Cheers for that link. Looks straight forward enough to do, but I may just get someone to do it when it's up on the ramps next time. :-)
Apart from this DV, are there any other weak spots in the engine that I should at least be aware of before re-mapping my ECU?
they had a recall on the coil packs too so might be worth seeing if they have been done :smiley:
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Keep an eye on your oil level. These engines do like to burn oil.
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Coil packs too, another item on the list. Starting to wonder if a £200/month budget isn't enough to get this done in the time frame I'm looking at... I don't recall seeing anything in the paperwork for my car having had either of the updated parts, but it is a 57 plate (registered September 2007 I believe) so would that mean it left the factory with the updated parts?
As for oil levels, I'm aware that the Volkswagen specification for oil consumption is ridiculously high, one quart per 2,500 miles or something crazy? Always carry a 5 litre bottle of Castrol Edge with me for that reason.
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Oil is better than on the ED30. Specs are upto 1l per 1000 miles.
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You won't be disappointed with that lot at R-Tech.
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Yeah, judging by the huge praise on this site, I've decided to take a trip up the M1 for the re-map, when I can afford it. Just need to save the money to get the other bits of my R32 bumper sourced, painted, fitted and a new exhaust with it all too... Could a be a few months yet!
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Hi,
Im a dude and yes im ashamed to say that im a complete novice when it comes to knowledge on cars.
Previously driven 2 banger peugeot 206. Looking to buy a mk5 which is probably the best car on the market for my price range 4-5K (05/06 Plate).
Well best car in terms of looks and what I like.
Okay can someone just clear one thing up for me, are there a few different type of mk5?
Ive seen a few on gumtree, autotrader, ebay etc and some 05/06 plates just look completely different to each.
it could just be thr front grill which looks so different. Any advice would be most welcome as im looking to buy one in the next few weeks.
Thanks in advance to anyone willing to help.
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Well, although unrelated to this post in a lot of ways, your answer simply is yes. Different models of Golfs will have different trim and option extras which affect the way a car looks.
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http://www.awesomegti.com/car/vw/golfmk5/forge-turbo-hose-kit-for-2-0-fsit
How difficult is it to fit this kit? All I have is a driveway, axle stands and a limited set of tools. Thinking of bolting this kit on myself to save some labour costs.
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http://www.awesomegti.com/car/vw/golfmk5/forge-turbo-hose-kit-for-2-0-fsit
How difficult is it to fit this kit? All I have is a driveway, axle stands and a limited set of tools. Thinking of bolting this kit on myself to save some labour costs.
I'd save my £157 and not bother replacing three oem tubes with three copy tubes the same size, but just a different colour.
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But I like pretty colours... :laugh: These are a mostly visual upgrade with the added bonus that they withstand higher boost pressures better.
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But I like pretty colours... :laugh: These are a mostly visual upgrade with the added bonus that they withstand higher boost pressures better.
Don't get these, at the level of tune you are looking at they give you nothing. The pipes are under positive pressure under load, so aren't liable to collapse and certainly will not blow up like balloons!.
If you are on a limited budget then I suggest a remap .....and R-tech are a good choice. The DV will definitely need looking at and I'd replace with either the OEM upgrade piston DV. Then a panel filter change to a Pipercross filter or go the extra mile and fit an Evoms intake. On a K03 then I'd suggest a downpipe and sports cat replacement, only get urge cat back section if you are thinking of a K04 turbo upgrade in the future, but not really needed in the short term. If everything holds up then you shouldn't require the coilpacks, but if you do have problems, just get the latest revision ones and whilst hey are off replace the OEM plugs - Bosch OEM plugs are fine for your level of tune.
Also worthy of note is to have the OEM cam follower checked, they wear and on a modified car I'd check/change it at each yearly service. Not a big job and the part is not expensive.
:cool:
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Very interesting read, thanks for that! The Forge pipes were simply suggested as I was fantasizing over pretty colours but that thought has passed!
My coil packs are not due a recall, phoned VW and checked with their database so all good. I'll keep my eye on them though, and replace if required. Downpipe and sports cat... Now I thought it would only be worth doing that if you go stage 2 tuning, but I may have to re-consider my approach, however the R32 rear bumper has been acquired so fitting a full system may be the simplest option, allowing future upgrades without the need to think about the exhaust system. K04 upgrade would be lovely, but a long way off just yet.
Cam followers, what's the symptoms of failure from this component?
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Also, I have a K&N panel filter in my air box, but was considering a VW Racing intake system but will consider the system you mentioned. I've not come across that manufacturer so far in my travels.
The re-map will come after a upgraded DV valve (the Forge kits look the best to me), exhaust and a possible intake system upgrade too. Figured there's little point in mapping the ECU before all the additions and changes to the engine have been carried out. But it will be one big spend over about 3 months I think, probably over the winter when there's little else happening.
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The cam follower is at the end of the high pressure fuel pump and permanently rubs against the cam lobe. Over time these wear and can eventually fail catastrophically taking the cam lobe and pump piston with it. As it is a relatively cheap part it makes sense to check it periodically for wear. When new it has. Black coating on its face and if it looks like it is starting to wear off then it is time to replace it.
The forge DV wouldn't be my choice. It isn't a fit and forget part as it needs lubing periodically. If it dries out it can stick. I've found that either the EVOMS manual DV or the GFB DV+ with the new revision piston and spring would be best......if you must change the OEM DV.
:cool:
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OK, but the GFB DV+ bolts onto the OEM solenoid, just replacing the weaker parts? Should I buy a whole new OEM DV (latest revision) and then fit the DV+ parts before installing, or just the DV+ parts? (And it's also cheaper to do this, yay!)
Have now added the down pipe and sports cat to my shopping list, and will get some quotes for fitting cost ect... Could fit the DV+ part myself I reckon, doesn't look as involved as other options, and will research the cam followers this afternoon (how to guides and parts ect.)
Cheers for your advice, having read your project I'm quite confident in your statements! :-)
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Also, having searched through the forums and what not, I've noticed there seems to be an issue with using oiled panel filters, like K&N ones (which I have). What are the symptoms of it and would re-mapping cure them or would something more drastic be required?
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It would make sense to buy the latest revision OEM solenoid to go with the GFB DV +.
Oiled filters, whether panel or open cone have advantages and disadvantages over dry filters.
- oiled filters need cleaning and re-oiling periodically.
- oiled filters can "seep" oil through and this can foul the MAF sensor causing the car to run roughly.
- oiled filters do filter out more particles than dry filters
- oiled filters aren't as efficient for power as dry filters.
I run a dry cone filter. :cool:
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Ah, OK, but baring in mind my stage of tuning, having cleaner air is preferred than performance at this stage? Until I go beyond 25% power increase, is it worth worrying about?
Also, I though the solenoid itself wasn't changed through the revisions but just the diaphragm, or am I mistaken? The GFB DV+ replaces nearly everything bar the solenoid and the yellow O ring.
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And with regards to cam follower, is this the correct part?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400588755006?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
And is this guide the right way;
http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102858
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And yet another question regarding PCV valves. Been led to believe the the stock OEM fails regularly so it's either replace with an ECS OEM Update (£110) or could I go with this, for just £50 more...
http://www.garagemidnight.com/collections/frontpage/products/garage-midnight-2-0tfsi-pcv-king
Opinions/reasons for and against..?
Thanks.
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The latest OEM revision will do the job.
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Beauty, thanks. Now I need to sort out the HPFP cam follower and that's all the areas covered ready for a re-map!
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Beauty, thanks. Now I need to sort out the HPFP cam follower and that's all the areas covered ready for a re-map!
thats a 20mins job i still need to do as well on the audi :smiley:
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http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_V--2.0T/Search/SiteSearch/Fuel_Cam_Follower/ES2609354/
I've just e-mailed Awesome GTI about whether they could stock this item on their UK site as it looks great. Failing that, I've found just the cam follower on eBay for £25;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/221307595453?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
I'd prefer an ECS kit to replace everything that wears but for £25 to save thousands in parts and labour... Does anyone really need to question that?