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Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: danj3000 on 06 September 2013, 21:07
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Evening all, I know what i'm about to ask has been spoken about many a time and i've searched and read about it, honest!
But, there's nothing better than getting a bit more detail from people where i'm not 100%.
Basically i've recently purchased some Bilstein shocks, front and rear along with some Eibach springs.
I'm going to be fitting these over the next week or two but at the same time it makes perfect sense to replace other bits and pieces relating to them, one example being top mounts.
What I would love to know from people is exactly what I need, along with best places to get them, eg GSF, Eurocarparts, VAG or elsewhere.
Thanks :smiley:
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Replace the lot!!
Front: Bolts - Nuts - Top Mounts - Bump Stops - Locking Nuts & Don't forget to buy a Locking Nut Tool - Worth every penny!!!!
Rear: Same again. Bolts - Mounts - Bump Stops etc.
Whats the point in only doing half the job???
Use Genuine parts if they are still available if not OE stuff that you can find like Febi, Bilsten etc.
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and to be fair, as and when your doing all that
1, check your anti roll bar bushes
2, check your lower arms including ball joints and bushes.
all new suspension, mounts etc will then highlight the next weak point in your set up :wink:
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Thank you both, along the lines of what I thought.
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unless you find fault with any other parts do not change them. because I can assure you. you will never get parts as good as the factory fitted parts. if it aint broke don't fix it. I replaced a front strut top mount on my old mk2 and it was split within a couple of months. worse than the 1 I took off.
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Fair point Gazareth, I may do this first of all as it's no major issue if down the line I need to replace parts. Plus fitting the new shocks and springs with the existing parts will help give me a decent understanding of the whole setup.
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Clean and inspect CV boots and joints while your there. Check your bearings and anything else that's easy while you have the running gear off and split.
I have always had to change at least one ball joint while doing suspension :smiley:
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with my last mk2 I clocked up 98k and I never had to change a front balljoint/track rod end or wishbone bush. very tough them old mk2s.
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Did I not say "only use GENUINE PARTS"
Top Mounts Use A Set Of G60's.
I fitted a set of Genuine G60 mounts to mine some 4 years ago and still going strong today!
IMO Always use Genuine parts as they do seem to last much longer than aftermarket parts!! But You can still save a few quid if you can find OE parts like bistein or some febi parts!
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Did I not say "only use GENUINE PARTS"
Top Mounts Use A Set Of G60's.
I fitted a set of Genuine G60 mounts to mine some 4 years ago and still going strong today!
IMO Always use Genuine parts as they do seem to last much longer than aftermarket parts!! But You can still save a few quid if you can find OE parts like bistein or some febi parts!
but why replace parts that there is nothing wrong with? unneccesary expense I would say.
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Just wait until things do go them replace them with these suggested parts.
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Did I not say "only use GENUINE PARTS"
Top Mounts Use A Set Of G60's.
I fitted a set of Genuine G60 mounts to mine some 4 years ago and still going strong today!
IMO Always use Genuine parts as they do seem to last much longer than aftermarket parts!! But You can still save a few quid if you can find OE parts like bistein or some febi parts!
but why replace parts that there is nothing wrong with? unneccesary expense I would say.
Simples do a job once and do it properly!!
Saves having to strip it all down again to replace a 10p part!!!
:afro:
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All this is worthless without getting it properly aligned afterwards.
-1.5 degrees of camber will help things along significantly over stock settings. Stitch welding the control arms will help things along too.
If you're into replacing bushes then mk1 TT bushes to the rear of the control arms will help too.
This will give you a snifter of lift off oversteer which is fun. .. provided you can drive :wink: