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Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Mk2Kezza on 04 September 2013, 17:50
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Following the melting of the knock sensor wire last night I now have no ignition battery and oil light. The water light flashes and the handbrake warning light come on in position 1 but not the other two. Also the fuel pump does not prime. There is a faint flash of the bat light light and that is it.
I bridged the starter to the battery and the fuel pump / ISV both prime.
I bridged the RED and BLACK wires on the back of the ignition switch and it is the same as the first paragraph.
Any ideas where to look or what it may be?
Cheers again.
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I have never heard of a knock sensor wire catching fire because the ignition timing was out lol. I would check all engine and body earths first.
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Following on from previous post. It seems a main earth has come adrift and it is finding an earth path via the knock sensor
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yeah that's exactly what I was thinking. had a similar problem on my mk1 escort many moons ago when the throttle cable caught fire at a petrol station of all places.
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Thanks for the quick replies. I've removed relay 32 and the battery light comes on but a little feint. Anyone know why? Knackered relay maybe?
Still won't turn over though...
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What wire did you bridge on starter to make fuel pump prime? How did it do that?
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I saw an earlier post by Rubjonny and he mentioned doing that. The +ve battery to the spade connector on the starter. I may be mistaken and it is only the ISV buzzing but it sounded like the lift pump priming.
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You're spot on lads,
It is an earthing problem. I ran the jump leads from the battery negative to the body and block and all the ignition lights came back on. Just need to find out which earth wire/wires are the problem.
Does anyone have a location list of where to find them so I can systematically check them...
Cheers
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Ground at back of cylinder head to coil, ground behind battery, ground on passenger side wing to bonnet, ground on gearbox, and I think there's a ground in the instrument panel and also one on the fuel neck, might of missed one though
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One inside above bonnet pull and earth claw above pedals
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Have replaced any dodgy earth cables and ignition lights are on. Engine turns over but stops - seems like the timing may be out or that the leads or not in the correct order.
I have found the mark on the cam sprocket that shows tdc on cylinder one and the rotor arm points to 2 o'clock as shown in pictures. Still wont start though.
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f38/Mk2Kezza/IMGP6664_zpsfc50e69f.jpg) (http://s44.photobucket.com/user/Mk2Kezza/media/IMGP6664_zpsfc50e69f.jpg.html)
you can just see the indent on the cog.
(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f38/Mk2Kezza/IMGP6668_zps003364f3.jpg) (http://s44.photobucket.com/user/Mk2Kezza/media/IMGP6668_zps003364f3.jpg.html)
I am right in assuming that from plug one its 1 3 4 2 in a clock wise direction?
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I mentioned timing, but not sure why that would be out as it wasn't before I started messing with the dizzy cap.
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Just swap leads around. Eventually you ll find where number 1 is
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yeah it's 1342 firing order and rotor arm wants to be pointing at the line marked in the dizzy body.
if it's turning then stopping that sounds more like a flat battery, does it just do like half n turn n stop and lights go off?
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Update,
The reason it slows down spinning may be because the cylinders are filling with petrol too quickly. If I take out all 4 plugs then it spins freely but shoots out, what appears to be, a lot of petrol. I have also noticed that the fuel pump primes when you switch on the ignition but doesn't stop - like it used to? What could cause that to happen?
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1-3-4-2 in a clockwise position? Just checking..
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im afraid to say you have blown your ecu. very common problem when you lose and earth. when you go to start it the starter motor finds another path to earth which is very often through the ecu thereby melting the guts of it. they can be repaired but easier to just fit a replacement.
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I read as such on a different post. I assume that they aren't made new? Is ebay the most likely source of a new ECU?
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sure is. there is allways loads of them on ebay around the £100 mark. its a wise idea to add an extra earth cable from engine to body just in case original decides to break. you could put one from rear engine mount to a steering rack bolt just to keep it out of sight. oh and I think there are 2 different kinds of ecu. they both work but you would be better with the 1 of the same part number as your original. I think the difference in them has something to do with the size of the fuel injectors. what colour are your injectors anyway?