GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk2 => Topic started by: Craigwilson on 28 August 2013, 00:01
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So I've been offered a 16v lump and loom to go with and I was wanting some opinions on the 16v engine? I'm only 17 and I've never drove a 16v before but I have 2 8vs.
1. Can you put a 16v head on an 8v block ?
2. Is the 16v better, what's it like to drive compared to an 8v and what's the power difference like ?
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It would be massively cheaper on insurance to buy a 16v. Any engine conversion will have ridiculous insurance prices even if the engine is a standard one from that car line.
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Yes and yes. 16v is better than the poor man's 8v. When you turn 18 you'll be a man with a man's car. :whistle:
And before you newbies start... here it is.
THE GRAPH.
(http://i482.photobucket.com/albums/rr182/the_flying_elvi/16v-vs-8v1.jpg) (http://s482.photobucket.com/user/the_flying_elvi/media/16v-vs-8v1.jpg.html)
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So if I get the 16v head and loom for free sent it away to get work done I can bolt it onto my block ? And oh yes ill be damn sure to tell my insurance company..........
And the 16v revs to 7k does it not? Will my block handle this ?
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Is it a KR (or 9a) lump or a 2.0 ABF lump from a Mk3?
In either case a Mk2 16v is the dogs dangleys, the 2.0 ABF is even danglier.
Best golf ever is a Mk2 16v (in Atlas Grey of course).
Probs cost you an arm and a leg to insure and more if you convert one to a 16v but hey while you dont have a mortgage or 15 kids live your life and have a fun car, life get tedious very quickly :laugh:
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So if I get the 16v head and loom for free sent it away to get work done I can bolt it onto my block ? And oh yes ill be damn sure to tell my insurance company..........
And the 16v revs to 7k does it not? Will my block handle this ?
As well as the loom you'll need the metering unit and other gubbins etc...
Revs all the way. The WHOOSH comes in at 4.5K and keeps going.
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The insurance can go take a flying **** to themselves ill do what i want no one will know.
If I'm getting the lot for free but I'd rather just do the head and loom rather than take the whole engine out.
Wasn't sure if the bearings and bolts in the 8v block would handle it but if you say so :)
What happens if I do bigger valves and cam it ?
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Another thing to consider is the electrical wiring if you have an older 8v splicing up loom to fuse box might need tweaking. if its a 90 above all is good plug and play.
16v all the way lol.
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Yeah mine is 91 on an H, looking forward to this conversion now, how big of a job actually is it
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Apparently this conversion doesn't wrk well because it lowers the compression, is this true ?
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Depends what compression you need? Lower means better if you plan on super charging it to take more airflow and fuel, but air to fuel ratio will be too low on a stock fuel set up? also consider what cams are to be used in conjunction with the 8V head? If it was me a stock 16v will serve you right unless you spend time and cash on setting something custom that requires fuel and air mapps?
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So is not as easy is bolting it on and plugging it in
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NO mate you need to search on here just see the amount of information you can piece together from other peoples experiences, most end up in tears or run out of money or wrong people can't do a pro job. hence keeping a stock KR is the best option as you dont know what state the original block is already.
key words head gasket pistons bores maps etc.
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So why is my 8v block different from a 16v
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The insurance can go take a flying **** to themselves ill do what i want no one will know.
Daft to post this on an open forum, insurance companies do look at forums so if you do take the risk you an idiot.
If I'm getting the lot for free but I'd rather just do the head and loom rather than take the whole engine out.
Do it once and do it right and fit the whole engine the only reason I can think you would be trying to keep the old engine number is so that you would not have to declare it again this is madness.
So why is my 8v block different from a 16v
16v has oil jets that cool the underneath of the piston plus different breather layout etc.
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Daft to post this on an open forum, insurance companies do look at forums so if you do take the risk you an idiot.
Bullsh!te, unless you can prove otherwise.
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Daft to post this on an open forum, insurance companies do look at forums so if you do take the risk you an idiot.
Bullsh!te, unless you can prove otherwise.
I dont need to prove, I know :smug:
:whistle:
:smiley:
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to fit a 16v head to an 8 valve block...
you need to extract engine from car. and strip the enigne when rebuilding it you need to do the following
drill and tap the oilway running by the bottom the bores to fit oil squireters.
hone bores
fit cranck ether 8 or 16v they are the same
fit 16v pistons, you can use 8 or 16v rods they are the same
fit 16v oil pump
fit 16v dizzy blanking plate
fit 16v cambelt drive pully ( it's wider than 8v one )
fit 16v intermediate drive shaft pully ( think you may need the shsft as well )
fit 16v ancillary drive pullys
fit 16v head
basicly your building a 16v into an 8v block it's not worth it..........
far easyer to fit ht e 8v block. unless your going nuts then you build it into a diesel block with forged internals and blow silly boost from a really big hairdryer
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So basically what I said at the very start, sell your 8v and buy a 16v.
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No I have too much kit in my 8v and nobody insures a 17 yo on a 16v
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just ditch the 16v idea and get a 2.0 bottom end for your 8v, and a kent gs2 cam.
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I was only going with the 16v because I was getting it free, how Much difference would a 285 can make to an 8v
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2.0 bottom end, cam'd with head job and you'll be pushing 145bhp with healthy dollop of torque
2.0 bottom end alone transforms a std 1.8 8v
take the 16v for free - sell it and use funds to buy the above :)
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yeah the 2 litre bottom end is a cheap and easy upgrade. makes good low down grunt but not as revvy as the 1.8. mind you if you put in a gs2h kent cam that will perk it up nicely. and at a glance it will look no different under the bonnet.