GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: dibs1980 on 06 August 2013, 22:06
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Hey people
A bit of advice/knowledge required
Basically I've got a few problems with my golf 1997 2.0 8v,my handbrake warning light stays on when I'm driving so I'm thinking its the brake fluid cap,however I've just noticed that my ABS/Air bag warnings don't light up either.So I took apart the switch(well it fell apart once I removed it from the dash)and low and behold the ABS bulb is blown I mean bulb smashed,so I got a second hand one from eBay,plugged it in and nothing both warning lights don't light up the bulbs look ok (haven't tested them).
So should I change the bulbs or check the wiring or both??? I just think its strange that the airbag light doesn't work either or should I get a new one from the dealer,my MOT is due in September so that's a fail anyway
I've checked the 2 30amp fuses above fuse box and there fine
Sorry for the long post any ideas would be a great help
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Get a probe tester unplug the abs light unit so u have the multi plug in your hand probe the connector and switch on the ignition if it shows power on abs and airbag terminals the unit you bought has a fault or blown bulbs
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Thanks for that
Ill try that tomorrow
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Sounds like your car has been rigged to not show an abs fault for the mot....very common.
Check terminals as said with meter on start up to see if the new unit is buggered or if the unit has been by passed back from the dash light cluster
Very common to buy second hand units with smashed bulbs or ad hoc mods to make the lights come on and go off...
Why people wont change a £15 wheel sensor and have working abs baffles me everytime.
The fact your handbrake light stays on could mean the abs ecu is duff.
By a U281 code reader and scan it, this will give you all the abs faults registered since the last scan/battery removal
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Thanks for that mate its on my job to do list tonight
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Right so I checked for power at the ABS/Airbag switch plug I'm only getting power at 1 of the terminals which is terminal 2 the rest have nothing
I scanned the car and there are 6 faults with 3 codes on ABS both front and one rear(sensors)
If the ecu was faulty I would have thought you wouldn't be able to read the ecu???
Sorry if I'm not making sense and I'm puzzled why the air bag lights not working plus I can't get the bulbs out of the switch I'm using pliers and they still won't come out
The fault codes are
00532(P1750)Supply Voltage(B+)Airbag
00283(P1711)ABS Wheel speed signal left front range/performance
00285(P1716)ABS right front sensor
00290(P1766)ABS Rear right sensor
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You need 4 sensors, dont go cheaper than eicher from ecp will be about 70 all in.
Trace the wires back to the loom to see if they are cut.
Check the connection's on the air bag (disconnect the battery)
Check the fuse on the abs pump
Check the handbrake switch
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Right ok thanks for the advice
A fuse on the pump itself is that right?
Ill remove the air bag and have a look at the wiring or should I trace it back to the airbag ecu?
As for the handbrake switch I tool off the cover and the switch was disconnected for some reason
It's Sod's law that things go wrong on your car just before the mot is due
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Bit of an update guys got another ABS/Airbag switch and it still doesn't light up so I checked the fuses again I found a fuse blown that does warning lights and glove box light to be blown so replaced that fuse and both warning lights work now but the ABS light stays on so there's more investigation required.
Is it common for both front ABS sensors to go faulty at the same time??
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Bit of an update guys got another ABS/Airbag switch and it still doesn't light up so I checked the fuses again I found a fuse blown that does warning lights and glove box light to be blown so replaced that fuse and both warning lights work now but the ABS light stays on so there's more investigation required.
Is it common for both front ABS sensors to go faulty at the same time??
Yes quite common, if you have faults with the abs best chuck new sensors at it first to be sure they all work......
Any faults then are with the pump/ecu.
Cheap sensors swell up and split especially if they are a tight fit in the hub.
file/drill out the holes until they drop in and grease the screws, if you own the car for a couple of years you will be back doing them again and this will save you time and stop you damaging the new sensors by banging them in :wink:
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Excellent ill get some sensors at the end of the month then stick the car in for its MOT and hope it passes
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Before spending out on sensors. It may be worth measuring resistances at the plugs. The rear right sensor is common to be an ecu fault. You can swap plugs under the rear seat, clear faults and see if the rear right fault moves to the rear left. If it does, and you still show a rear right fault, you have an ecu problem.
If it moves its the sensor.
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Before spending out on sensors. It may be worth measuring resistances at the plugs. The rear right sensor is common to be an ecu fault. You can swap plugs under the rear seat, clear faults and see if the rear right fault moves to the rear left. If it does, and you still show a rear right fault, you have an ecu problem.
If it moves its the sensor.
Quite correct Mr Shirt, still recommend new sensors all round as it can be a right pita sorting the ecu or wiring out if you cant be sure of each sensors integrity.
All my Mk3's have come to me with failed abs not a big deal to fix so don't be put off if you have spanners.
Mk3 handles much better for having abs as well as the obvious safety benefits, well worth fixing.
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Cheers for the help guys ill check the faults codes again and report back what they are