GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: Deano2711 on 05 August 2013, 13:39
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Hi Guys.......I am looming for help with this problem. Before anyone says it I have done searches and came to where I am now. Basically for a couple of weeks I have had the revs dropping to almost nothing and the dash lights come on and the car then goes back upto normal revs. On the odd occasion it would cut out but would always restart straight away and then be ok. So I cleaned out the idle control valve and it seemed better for about a week. The other day on a dua carraigeway got to 3000 revs and the power just went and the car gradually ground to a halt and cut out. Started straight away and got me to work and back again but I thought I would take off the idle control valve agaon and soak it overnight and refit. Basically the car sounds like its struggling to run all the time. Took it for a test drive to see if the idle control valve needed to reset itself and it cut out on me and would not start. Got it home and let it go cold but still no start. Recently I have changed the throttle body but the car ran fine for a couple of weeks on the new one. So today I have changed the crank sensor as this was coning up with a fault code. When I try and start now I get a strong smell of fuel and the car either will not start the same as before or will start and sit at around 600 revs sounding lumpy and then cut out after about 20/30 seconds. During this 20/30 seconds if I touch the accelerator it dies. Its a 1992 VR6 OBD1 engine. Did a fault code after fitting the crank sensor and its coming up with speed sensor (which I believe is the crank sensor) and the idle control valve. Any ideas ???
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Seems like something the previous owner has covered up when selling you the car
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It ran spot on for about four weeks till the poor idling started and its gradually got worse and worse. Going to check the fuses and relays next I think
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Probably nothing serious. It looks really smart.
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Maybe worth just taking it to a trustworthy garage and getting a full service/check etc.
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I would have sugessted the coil pack, but as it's an OBD1 it's got the distributor on it. So you've changed the crank sensor which is the culprit when it comes to cutting out. Where did you get the crank sensor from?, they are known to fail within a matter of days even if they're new, if you get a cheap eBay one. Next i would suggest is check the ECU relay & Fuel pump relay. And see how it goes.
Also when it cuts out. You need to check if it's spark related or fuel issue. Either of them won't Start the engine and will cut the engine out. Once you know where the problem lies, then it's a step forward :wink:
Ignore the little bit. :embarrassed:
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Thanks for the replies.......the car has full service history and had one less than 1000 miles ago . The crank sensor came from GSF. Anyway I have today been playing and think I have solved it. Checked the fuses and relays but no faults. Took off the breather pipes to check for blockages or cracks etc but nothing. Took the MAF off to check that out as when I unpluggedit the car would cut out. Found that full of crap and one of the little wires inside loose so repaired that and cleaned out. Refitted that and the car will now run lumpy again and I can accelerate. Unplugged the MAF and its no better and no worse. Checked for fault codes again and get the idle control valve still. Takes off the HT lead cover to find the connector not on properly. Plugged it in and the car cuts out. Unplugs and car runs lumpy so am now thinking the idle control valve is faulty and the MAF needed cleaning. So if anyone has an idle control valve on an OBD1 vr they are breaking then let me know. Cheers
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I should have both the maf and idv for an obd1 vr but will check tomorrow.
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I should have both the maf and idv for an obd1 vr but will check tomorrow.
Sounds good to me Mate......what sort of price Posted ??
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I am a bit disappointed with Gsf. Went to replace my radiator with one from there and it did not quite line up so ended up taking it back. When it comes to engine parts I am going to stick with oem even if that means paying more
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I should have both the maf and idv for an obd1 vr but will check tomorrow.
Sounds good to me Mate......what sort of price Posted ??
35 posted? Will need to test them on my vr first. I know i have the maf but not sure on idv. Have an inlet manifold so should be one on that.
Back to your problem, did you read codes with engine running as if it wasn't it would bring up the speed (crank) sensor / no signal code. Also your symptoms also could be a bad oxygen sensor. Its just you mentioned a smell of fuel which would point me in that direction. Try disconnecting it once its warmed a bit and see if it idles any better. The connector is the largest of the two on the metal bracket mounted on top of the rear engine mount.
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Will try tgat in the morning Mate as I seem to remember a code coming up for that as well. And I did read the codes with the engine running and not running so not sure on the crank sensor but thats changed now anyway so thats not the problem and its not a bad thing to have a new one on there. Let me know if you find the icv Bud as that is the one I am looking towards as I think my MAF is working ok. Cheers
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I'll check for that tommorow and test it and let you know mate. Does it run better cold or is it pretty much the same regardless of temp?
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Runs slightly better when its warm but if I plug my idle control valve back in it will not run at all. I start the engine without the icv plugged in and it runs lumpy, then if i plug it in it cuts out virtually straight away which makes me think icv. Tomorrow I might unscrew the oxygen senso and clean it and refit and it should make it run better. If it does I know it needs changing but I am sure its the icv so if you have one Mate then let me know how much for just that posted as my MAF is working fine now I cleaned it out. It had about half a mug full of tree bits in it. Took me three weeks to stop these bits blowing through the heater vents into the car :laugh:
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Dont try and remove oxygen sensor unless you know it failing as some of them can be tough and ruin the thread on the sensor. Just disconnect it as the engine management will revert back to cold settings. If the car runs better then thats the problem, if there is no difference then its something eles. Your air intake and heating system aren't connected. Only way they would get in if your heater blower was drawing them in through its intake underneath the plastic scuttle panel on passenger side. Sure its not wee bits of foam coming through the vents?
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Will try unplugging it Mate and let you know how I get on. The comment about bits blowing in through the vents was not connected to the air intake system but just a comment that the car was full of tree bits and they had got in to the car seperatly and the MAF was also half full. I really believe the fault to be the icv as it runs unplugged and cuts out when connected. I did read there is a way to bypass the icv but I would prefer to get another one to be honest
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Right Guys really need a suggestion on this. I have now got the car starting and running and all good until I take my foot of the accelerator and then it dies everytime. Will not idle on its own. I have changed the throttle body and Idle Control Valve and the crank sensor. MAF has been cleaned and refitted and if I unplug it makea no difference. All breather pipes have been removed and checked and cleaned. Charcoal cannister has been emptied and refitted. Air filter replaced. I have unplugged the oxygen sensor and no change or improvement. I unplugged the purge valve and it ran perfect for about 30 seconds then went back to how it was and if i unplug it now no change. I cant find anything else on a search or think of anything else. Any help welcome
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Tps? throttle position switch...
If that's not working it wont tell the icv what to do
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Tps? throttle position switch...
If that's not working it wont tell the icv what to do
Where do I find the throttle position switch Bud ??
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I believe the throttle position switch is the sensor on the side of the throttle body ?? If so then this was changed with the throttle body so highly unlikely to be two dodgy ones
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Deano, have you taken it to a garage???
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No Mate because they will scan for fault codes and get nothing like me then they will start picking at items like I have. Tried everything now but no joy. I have a couple of small options left now which I will try tomorrow then I am completly stumped......cannot understand how nothing is showing itself as I go though things one by one
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Yeah true. Unless you know them you never know what they might falsely diagnose
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Only one bloke by me who I trust with my car and he would just experiment with each part in turn like I have. Was just hoping someone on here would have been through the same thing and may have a solution that I have overlooked but does not look lime it
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You will get there my friend
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Well I finally give up and took it to the garage. First time a Mark 3 has beaten me completely. I have changed, checked and cleaned everything that could be the fault and still no better. At least it starts and runs now but no idle so at least I could drive it to the garage !!!!!
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I think you have made the right decision