GolfGTIforum.co.uk
Model specific boards => Golf mk3 => Topic started by: bigdirtyturbo on 12 July 2013, 20:58
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Hi all, trying to time up my engine as ive been getting the hall sensor trouble code off of vagcom.
Firstly ive tried adjusting the distributor using vagcom but cant get the readings anywhere near what they should be.
So now im looking at the engine timing. The cam and crank timing points match up no worries but im stuck with what to do with the dizzy.
cap off the mark didnt match the arm, so i loosened it off and lined it up.
ive not put vagcom back on yet but will first thing..
my question is..
is there a specific way of timing the dizzy, or am i just meant to spin it to match the rotor arm wherever it is?
what happens if the rotor arm is out i.e if the shaft was re inserted wrong previously?
how is the rotor timed up??
cheers in advance
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Inter shaft is loose when the belt is off and moves really easy when fitting the new belt, where cam and crank are quite solid and don't move as easily.
So long as the inter shaft that drives the dizzy is only a tooth or two out you can line up the dizzy to the mark and you will be fine, say up to about 20'
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ok, so I need to check the inter shaft? would a quick way be to check the position of the rotor when cam is at tdc? if so where should the rotor be pointing when engine is at tdc?
Cheers
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ok, so I need to check the inter shaft? would a quick way be to check the position of the rotor when cam is at tdc? if so where should the rotor be pointing when engine is at tdc?
Cheers
Rotor position is relative to the shaft position
Set cam and crank to tdc and see where rotor points, should be lining up with mark on dizzy body and firing on 1 in the dizzy cap.
So long as you are only a little out you should be fine turning the dizzy.
My dizzy is rusted in and cant be turned and is out to the intershaft by about two teeth, I just turn the inter until the rotor lines up with the dizzy body mark, bit of tippex will help once you have position if it moves again.
Trick is to get the belt back on without it moving again :grin:
So long as you get it pretty close the ecu can control the spark, if you are too far out it will not rev past 5k and go into safe mode showing a hall sensor fault.
If its timed up properly and still faults then you may need a new hall sensor, this is a dizzy off job. :smiley:
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ok, that's what I needed to know. but I still don't get it. I understand the rotor is relevant to the shaft. but when I hear that it should be aligned to the dizzy body marking I don't see how. as the dizzy is movable so that could be in any old position. guess what I'm asking now is... Where should the dizzy body itself be aligned to if I'm meant to align the rotor to it? or does it not matter as long as tdc has the rotor pointing to 1/dizzy marking.
Thanks for all the info guys.
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which values do you get for the ignition timing on vcds (vagcom)?
value 1 needs to be 57 to 60, value 2 needs to read 5 to 8.
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timed the car up so all timing marks are in place..
Put on vagcom and adjusted the dizzy as best i could.
the readings are jumping around they flick between 2 numbers first one is reading 56/36 and second is reading 8/28.
also this is with the hall sensor pointing at the 2 oclock position which i feel is odd..
i tried unpluging the hall sensor with the engine running and nothing happend the engine note didnt change and it ran just the same.
guessing i need a hall sensor???
anybody know the part numbers? mines a 97 agg
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what dizzy do you have? black or brown?
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red/brown cap on the dizzy.
Cheers
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Regardless of where your dizzy is sitting, time up the engine to tdc. Then line up the mark in the distributor to the rotor and that should be it done. Assuming the cam gear is in correct position. If it not you will need to alter the dizzy position so it is within the parameters given by vagcom. But if timing belt is fitted correctly you should,t even need vagcom. Mine didn't anyway.
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Regardless of where your dizzy is sitting, time up the engine to tdc. Then line up the mark in the distributor to the rotor and that should be it done. Assuming the cam gear is in correct position. If it not you will need to alter the dizzy position so it is within the parameters given by vagcom. But if timing belt is fitted correctly you should,t even need vagcom. Mine didn't anyway.
This
Ive never needed to use VC when checking the timing.
So long as you are at tdc with cam and crank you can turn the dizzy body to line up the mark with the rotor.
Your engine will still run with a broken/unplugged HS just will not run past 5k revs as its in safe mode.
Beginning to think you may have a fragged HS....
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Yea I'm deffo thinking hall sensor myself. done all I can with it now. it runs ok, but the vagcom readings are still fluctuating and my mpg is poor. plus as I said, when it's unplugged it still runs the same. at least on idle. any ideas where I can get one at a reasonable price?
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I would jus get a second hand one. Plenty of them about for the AGG engine. Also beware if your still using your car as bad timing can do all sorts of damage. Cause my exhaust manifold to glow red hot just on idle.
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hi all, ive used the car for 24 hrs now without getting a fault code or 5k revs issues. mpg seems a little better also.
but the vagcom readings are still 26/56 and 38/8
can help think there must be an issue somewhere with the hall sender.
id like more mpg as i now get between 8-9.5l/100km and ive no other faults that i can find.
guess a new dizzy is where its at, ive a good one off a 92 2e gti i have, would that be the same?
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no, dizzy for 2E will be different. is the dizzy properly on OT? you should be able to pull out two pins and then align it pretty close?
8.5-9 liters? I doubt you're doing a lot of long distance driving on mallorca so that probably is quite ok...
my avg over 40.000km with my 2E was 8.14l/100km - and I've done quite a bit of long distance driving with that!
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no, dizzy for 2E will be different. is the dizzy properly on OT? you should be able to pull out two pins and then align it pretty close?
8.5-9 liters? I doubt you're doing a lot of long distance driving on mallorca so that probably is quite ok...
my avg over 40.000km with my 2E was 8.14l/100km - and I've done quite a bit of long distance driving with that!
ok Ive spoken too soon. tonight I got codes up and 5k limit. also upto 11 liters now..
I'd like to know more about resetting the distributor. I don't know anything about OT or any 2 pins.. I'm guessing these are important.
thanks for your help mate
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Some dizzys have two dowels which line up the unit close to the correct timing.
But this is based on the inter being timed to the mark.
You would need to pull these out to line up a dizzy thats say two teeth out.
They fit either side of the clamp bolt iirc.
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Ok, still not sure on these 2 dowels. if have to see them.. but I know what is meant by OT and I think I may have a clue.. I've just read on vortex.. I think it was anyway, that there are 2 flywheels 1 with tdc and 6btdc and 1 with just 6btdc.. mine only had one marking a singular line inthe flywheel. so maybe the cam is set at tdc and the crank 6btdc?? where would this leave my dizzy? it's that's why it's got the hall sensor pointing at 2 o'clock position instead of 4/5o'clock to get the VC anything like...? feel like I'm getting somewhere now.
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send me a pm with your email. can send you a pdf with the alignment procedure for the agg.
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you have post :wink:
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Thanks so much for the guide mate, I've replied with a question for you.
I'm just stuck with how to time my crank. the timing mark is different to 99 percent of what I can find on the web.. I'd like to be more accurate than using a pole in plug hole
1.
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how many marks do you have when you look down the hole on clutch side?
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are there more than one timing holes for my car on the flywheel?
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I just have 1 line.. I've sent you the pic in a email mate.
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still no closer on finding how to time my crank.. it's looking like a rod in cyl1 it's going to be my only way finding tdc.. has nobody ever seen the timing mark that I have on might flywheel?